R129 suspension refresh advice needed

[SLBrighton]

Hi all,

I have a 1997 SL500 and I am exploring the option of replacing some of the suspension parts in the next 12 months. The car's done 114,000 and I think it's probably on the original components, apart from a new steering damper that was fitted a few years ago.

I've just had it checked over and the front top mounts are both starting to split, so I thought I would explore recommendations / costs for replacing the dampers. It rattles around over rough roads and I feel that a refresh would improve the ride and handling. I'm not one to throw unnecessary cash at it, so just exploring options.

Does anyone have recommendations of the type of damper to go for and whether it's worth doing other suspension parts at the same time etc.

If anyone has done this or has any advice, I'd love to hear.

Thanks

 

[Doodle]

If the car is a keeper and the funds are available, going through the whole lot will definitely make a difference, especially if you can do the work yourself.

At the very least, new top mounts (Lemforder) and some Bilstein B4s, plus a new set of front/rear ARB bushes and links - they're cheap, easy to replace and make an appreciable difference.

If the budget allows, change the rear multilinks (Lemforder do a kit) and the fluid bushes where the rear arms meet the hub carrier. This is easiest with the specific Klann tool, took me a few minutes to remove and refit the bush in situ with it when I did mine.

Lastly, front and rear lower arms if they need it. Genuine rear arms are surprisingly cheap, front arms less so! If you have the later spec lower arms with the moulded ball joints, generally the joint will let go long before the bushes are worn out (earlier spec arms have replaceable ball joints)

 

[SLBrighton]

If the car is a keeper and the funds are available, going through the whole lot will definitely make a difference, especially if you can do the work yourself.

At the very least, new top mounts (Lemforder) and some Bilstein B4s, plus a new set of front/rear ARB bushes and links - they're cheap, easy to replace and make an appreciable difference.

If the budget allows, change the rear multilinks (Lemforder do a kit) and the fluid bushes where the rear arms meet the hub carrier. This is easiest with the specific Klann tool, took me a few minutes to remove and refit the bush in situ with it when I did mine.

Lastly, front and rear lower arms if they need it. Genuine rear arms are surprisingly cheap, front arms less so! If you have the later spec lower arms with the moulded ball joints, generally the joint will let go long before the bushes are worn out (earlier spec arms have replaceable ball joints)

Thanks for all the info, very useful.

The car is a keeper, but funds not available just yet. Any idea what it would cost if parts alone? I wasn't thinking about doing the work myself. I'm pretty handy but I've never done any suspension parts and apart from sockets sets, don't have any other tools. It's my only vehicle so it can't be off the road for long.

 

[Wagon]

. Genuine rear arms are surprisingly cheap, front arms less so!

Just had a front one changed on mine, not cheap but worth it for a genuine part , also did all the cotton reel ones on the outriggers and the front arb bushes , made loads of difference.
Control arm was £350 plusvat , bushes ranged from £1:50 to £7:00 each..

 

[Doodle]

Thanks for all the info, very useful.

The car is a keeper, but funds not available just yet. Any idea what it would cost if parts alone? I wasn't thinking about doing the work myself. I'm pretty handy but I've never done any suspension parts and apart from sockets sets, don't have any other tools. It's my only vehicle so it can't be off the road for long.

I did mine myself, but I have a well stocked garage. You will need some specific tools - ball joint splitter, telescopic spring compressor. I have air/impact tools but they're not compulsory. Front end should be a one day job; shocks and top mounts are very easy (sockets only), the lower arm is ok except if the ball joint won't let go. Rear end is more complex as there's three times as many bits and access is tight around the multilinks, often the case of having the right combination of spanner/socket/extension to fit. Doable in a weekend though.

I'd need to look up the prices again, but I would expect it to be the far side of £1k for all the parts, saving where possible. A set of Bilsteins will be £500-600 alone.

 

[Doodle]

Just had a front one changed on mine, not cheap but worth it for a genuine part , also did all the cotton reel ones on the outriggers and the front arb bushes , made loads of difference.
Control arm was £350 plusvat , bushes ranged from £1:50 to £7:00 each..

I have a spare set of Febis front LCAs sat on the shelf which were about £100 a side at time, while genuine would be nice I don't see it lasting 4 times as long. I was surprised however that the genuine rear arms were something like £70, at that price I didn't see the point in pressing out the bushes.

 

[SLBrighton]

I did mine myself, but I have a well stocked garage. You will need some specific tools - ball joint splitter, telescopic spring compressor. I have air/impact tools but they're not compulsory. Front end should be a one day job; shocks and top mounts are very easy (sockets only), the lower arm is ok except if the ball joint won't let go. Rear end is more complex as there's three times as many bits and access is tight around the multilinks, often the case of having the right combination of spanner/socket/extension to fit. Doable in a weekend though.

I'd need to look up the prices again, but I would expect it to be the far side of £1k for all the parts, saving where possible. A set of Bilsteins will be £500-600 alone.

I might just do the top mounts first, as this looks a pretty easy job. Any thoughts of where to get decent replacements from? Main dealer? It would probably make sense to do the front dampers at the same time and for this, I don't think I need any specialist kit. Do new dampers come with bump stops, or do I need to order those separately?

 

[Doodle]

Main dealer, or one of the "safe" i.e. OE manufacturer brands.

You won't need any special kit to do top mounts and shocks, just a socket set. A jack under the lower arm will keep the spring in check.

 

[Zonergem]

This is a very slippery slope. When you replace X you'll hear something else (Y) go clunk, and go chasing after that. No sense in putting up with it, since you've already spent the money doing X and come this far. I'm talking engine, transmission and diff mounts, subframe mounts, flex discs, prop shaft centre bearings. Once you start looking you'll find plenty of perished rubber and worn-out bushes/bearings, to say nothing of surface rust and scale. Maybe those hard brake lines don't look so clever and so on and so forth.

Before you know you're here




and then here



By you're now waiting for the bodyshop for a full respray and you've vaporized close on five figures.

So, like I say, slippery slope.

 

[Doodle]

The perils of cope creep. This started as a 5 minute clean out of the arch lip...

 

[SLBrighton]

I messaged my local Mercedes dealer and they replied that the Strut Top Mount is now no longer available from Mercedes, but that another dealer in Scotland has stock. They gave the part number as A 124 320 0473, but isn't this for a W124? Is it the same part, as I know some components are the same. Doodle, you mentioned Lemforder strut mounts. I found these but it states 'for vehicles with levelling control'. I assume it means with ADS? Mine doesn't have this, or are they the same? https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/8927889

 

[Doodle]

Yes, that's not unexpected. 124 and 129 share a lot of suspension parts.

On the strut tops, I'd need to check what they offer. I gave Lemforder as an example of trusted OE supplier name rather than specifically for that part. I think I fitted TRW to mine last time round.

I'd expect the ADS strut top to be very slightly different as ISTR it needs space for wiring, Bill (BTB500) might be able to shed some light there as his SL is ADS equipped.

 

[Yogioes]

Mine is a 2000 SL320 on approx 117k and I have done most of the suspension over the last two years.
I have more detail on my Pistonheads Readers' Cars thread "Mercedes SL320 R129 - Part 2"

I got the top mounts from the MB dealer in Glasgow in 2019. Cost £180 for the pair.
Normal suspension on mine and I just looked out the receipt which lists the part number as A1243200473, the same as the dealer has listed to you.

I probably have spent unnecessary cash on mine but it is a hobby and has been a bit of a distraction to real life.
The sum of all the small changes has now got me a much less rattly car. Still has some noises when hitting potholes.
The small things matter. My latest job had the door cards off and there were a few loose screws, especially the ones holding the bottom of the door pockets to the door card.

Looking at Autodoc, I could possibly have saved a lot of money and fitted these! https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/1871554

Best wishes

 

[Tattmaylor]

I noticed the top mounts on my R129 are cracking, and the ride is also very crashy over poor surfaces - especially at the front near side. The garage I've been using for a while are quoting £1,063 inc VAT for new front shocks, springs and top mounts. Assuming they're using decent branded products, does this sound reasonable?

 

[Doodle]

It sounds fair if they're using OE top mounts and springs, and either OE or Bilstein shocks - you're probably talking £800 worth of parts.

 

[Wagon]

I noticed the top mounts on my R129 are cracking, and the ride is also very crashy over poor surfaces - especially at the front near side. The garage I've been using for a while are quoting £1,063 inc VAT for new front shocks, springs and top mounts. Assuming they're using decent branded products, does this sound reasonable?

Mine was a bit crashy over bumps last year , it turned out to be the lower arm on the pax side and some bushes .. i've forgotten what I paid for the fix.... Not sure why you need new springs unless they are broken .or shocks unless they are obviously fubared

 

[Zonergem]

Top mounts - genuine are about £70 per side. Febi/Meyle about £30.

Genuine springs are about £110 per side. Apart from lowering H&R type springs there isn't a great deal of choice in the aftermarket, at least going off Autodoc.

Bilstein B4 front shocks are about £130-150 per side. Sachs are around £100-120. There are different shock fitments depending if your chassis number is above or below 054768 as the steering knuckle design changed.

You could also use new bump stops and shock gaiters.

If you were able to order the parts from Autodoc or another factor and do the work yourself (with the proper spring compressor) I'd say you could do it for £500.

 

[willmlatimer]

Hi all,

I thought I would jump onto this chat to ask if anyone had issues trying to find the correct spheres for the front. I have found Febi parts at about £90 each but it seems that they do not list my chassis number as compatible. Its a very ealry SL500, Build year was 1990. (129.066).

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

 

[BTB 500]

Hi all,

I thought I would jump onto this chat to ask if anyone had issues trying to find the correct spheres for the front. I have found Febi parts at about £90 each but it seems that they do not list my chassis number as compatible. Its a very ealry SL500, Build year was 1990. (129.066).

Any advice would be great!

Thanks

SS Motors in Surrey might be able to help/advise. They are long-standing MB specialists and quite possibly the main experts on ADS in the UK now.

SS Motors | Mercedes Specialists in Surrey

SS motors is an Independent Mercedes Benz family run service centre, located in Weybridge Surrey.Est in 1990. We cover all aspects of aftersales for your vehicle from routine car servicing to fault diagnosis, electrical and mechanical repairs. We offer a professional and comprehensive service to...

ssmotorsuk.com

 

[ray_hennig]

I could possibly have saved a lot of money and fitted these! https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/1871554

I wouldn't risk Febi or Meyle on any critical part that I could not replace cheaply myself, i.e. DIY.

Lemfoerder, Sachs, Bilstein are good. My genuine MB front control arms (500€ each!!!) were marked TRW: one made in Germany, the other Slovakia.

Good cars deserve good replacement parts.

Good hunting.

RayH