R170 230k

[Smokey Fontaine]

Hi all,

Can anyone recommend a performance air filter that can fit onto a 2000 (X) 230K?
I am thinking more of a cone type, nice looking one rather than a replacement flat element type.

Thanks guys,

Smokey Fontaine.

 

[John Jones Jr]

To fit a cone filter you'll need to do a bit of work as there's nothing off the shelf. The best way is to use two cones, one for the induction and on one for the bypass valve.

Here's a common setup.

 

[stwat]

Ooo, lovely hot air induction. Just what the engine doesn't need and will sap power.

 

[Smokey Fontaine]

Thanks JJJ, much appreciated.

 

[flango]

Ooo, lovely hot air induction. Just what the engine doesn't need and will sap power.

Yep a great way to decrease power, needs fresh air feeds not under bonnet intakes or just use a panel filter much easier

 

[m2287]

Sounds cool though

 

[John Jones Jr]

Ooo, lovely hot air induction. Just what the engine doesn't need and will sap power.

Well, that's not exactly correct. That setup stops the very hot air from the S/C Bypass valve going back into the induction system.

Admittedly the one in the photo could have been bettered designed with a bit more care given to the location (close location) of both cones but I'd reckon even still the engine is breathing better as the original airbox is very restrictive and all the hot air from the Bypass valve is feed directly to the intake system with the airbox which is not good at all - except for noise reduction.

Plus, time and time again it's been reported when using a twin cone setup especially with an S/C that's producing more pressure than standard there has been an increase in both boost pressure and a drop in I.C. temps thus aiding both throttle response and power.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Thanks JJJ, much appreciated.

You're welcome.

If you do go down that route, use a heat shield to separate the filters from the engine, a light piece of alloy sheet trimmed to suit would do nicely. But more importantly imo locate the induction cone close to the inlet tube of the original airbox and place the Bypass valve cone away from the induction cone within reason, if possible place/use the heat shield I mentioned above or a second shield as a divider between both cones. The priority is to divert the Bypass air away from the induction, nearly anything is better than the original setup.

I can't advise much more than that at the moment as it's a mod I've still not carried out even though I've been meaning to do it for the last two years! One reason being that when I originally looked at it I reckoned it was best to locate one of the cones below the inner wing, the Bypass cone seemed the obvious.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Here's another similar setup with a heat shield and the shield is used to mount the Bypass valve. Still, I think ideally the induction cone should be at the front closest to the original intake snorkel that's mounted in the front panel.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Smokey, have a look at this U.S. site. There's a world of info on modifications for your SLK. Checkout Subby's posts inparticular.

R170 SLK-Class - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 

[John Jones Jr]

I came across a couple of photos of a modification I carried out on a spare filter housing with the aim to allow the hot air from the Bypass valve to escape.

The first photo really speaks for itself, the lid was vented just past where the Bypass valve dumps the hot air into the filter housing. The vent does work but how efficiently it works is anybody's guess. It generates a 'whoosh' sound when the valve opens which happily is not instructive. I'd suggest venting the lid even more would work far better ideally but there's only so much one can do without creating a major compromise between venting and limiting hot air from the engine bay being drawn in via the air filter.

The second photo is the tube sits inside the lid of the a/box that connects directly from B/valve to a baffled and open ended tube that feeds the S/C. This part was removed so there's no direct connection between the valve and induction side other than the airbox. Also the baffled tube uses foam for sound suppression which degrades and breaks up over time, the foam was also removed.

Sorry no photos of the underside of the lid as that would go a long way to explaining the original setup and my mini & crude modification at the time.

 

[Smokey Fontaine]

Thanks JJJ, you have given me some options and lots to think about. When it stops raining I will go out and have a quick reccy.