re: w202 c220 1994 very Sluggish accelerator repsonse

[MSinghMerc]

Dear Team

I have now nearly got my car up and running, apart from on major issue

1. the idle is ok just under 1k revs

But, when you put into "D" or "reverse", you have to massively build up the revs, it goes past 3k to move the car, even then there is no power

I suspect the maf, i have removed the maf and cleaned with contact cleaner, but no difference, it seems the original one, tomorrow, I will remove it again and then remove the actual sensor insert with torq plus tools, and try to find a replacement for this,

all vacuum lines are in place when you at the engine, not sure about the below.

Any advise form anyone? before i have the merc star diagnostics put on?

thank you team

 

[FLYPOGGER]

Dear Team

I have now nearly got my car up and running, apart from on major issue

1. the idle is ok just under 1k revs

But, when you put into "D" or "reverse", you have to massively build up the revs, it goes past 3k to move the car, even then there is no power

I suspect the maf, i have removed the maf and cleaned with contact cleaner, but no difference, it seems the original one, tomorrow, I will remove it again and then remove the actual sensor insert with torq plus tools, and try to find a replacement for this,

all vacuum lines are in place when you at the engine, not sure about the below.

Any advise form anyone? before i have the merc star diagnostics put on?

thank you team

If it revs to 3,000 and doesn't seem to have any power to move the car, are the breaks binding?

 

[toteimerced]

Transmission would be my guess, too much slip before drive is taken up.

 

[RogerSausage]

I'd be checking the ATF level too from what you describe

 

[MSinghMerc]

dear All thank you so much for your help,

the last month the mot failed on 2 things

1. horn, not working - now fixed
2. leaking fuel pump- fuel pump an filter both replaced.

i will check all the above and revert back,

i am very close to driving this , as that was the intended purpose,

thank you team

 

[MSinghMerc]

I have today disconnect the maf, and the rev and engine goes all funny, so the maf is working ok,, i can adjust the accel cable at foot and throttle end, also when i now push the pedal, i can see that the throttle under the hood, connected to the accel cable moves, it responds, so the cable is also ok.

when I put in gear "d" or "r" the pedal has to be pushed further down for the car to move? what do you think the issue could be

 

[Bellow]

But, when you put into "D" or "reverse", you have to massively build up the revs, it goes past 3k to move the car, even then there is no power

When you drive away from a standstill, are you saying the rpm is 3000 and with tardy acceleration? If so, does the engine rpm and roadspeed eventually synchronise when you reach cruising speed?
Have you checked the ATF level?

 

[MSinghMerc]

Dear Bellow,

I will check the atf level tomorrow,

So, just to add, at stand still acceleration and idle is great, no issues.

I then put in drive and I have to push the pedal further down, for thr car to move, it's really noisy, also.

I will report back tomorrow...

Appreciate all help I am.getting..

 

[Bellow]

Dear Bellow,

I will check the atf level tomorrow,

That needs to be done as a priority.

So, just to add, at stand still acceleration and idle is great, no issues.

OK, you have throttle response in neutral, From here on, only vehicle acceleration is of importance.

I then put in drive and I have to push the pedal further down, for thr car to move, it's really noisy, also.

Noisy - high rpm? Or does it feel like the engine is labouring - having to work much harder than it should? If so, at what rpm is this happening? Something else? If so, describe the sound.

I will report back tomorrow...

Do that.

 

[MSinghMerc]

Sorry just to add,

When I put into drive and take my foot of th4 brake, the car does not move, I have to push down on my pedal... and then it moves, but really no power even then, and rough ride...

 

[Bellow]

Sorry just to add,

When I put into drive and take my foot of th4 brake, the car does not move, I have to push down on my pedal... and then it moves, but really no power even then, and rough ride...

Explain 'rough ride'. Is there ever any burning smell when this is happening? Have the brakes been checked for a brake stuck on?

 

[MSinghMerc]

No burning smell, the brakes are OK as it passed thatvpart during the mot,

 

[MSinghMerc]

I have now had a look at the atf dip stick, and photo shown, there seems no obvious oil, it there something at the bottom of the lipstick. I have checked with carnstand still, and also with engine on, no significant difference. Some photo attached.
1st photo shows car at Stan still, 2nd photo shows whilst engine was running, and 3rd photo shows water coming out of exhaust.

Should I add/ top up the atf oil tomorrow??

 

[FLYPOGGER]

dear All thank you so much for your help,

the last month the mot failed on 2 things

1. horn, not working - now fixed
2. leaking fuel pump- fuel pump an filter both replaced.

i will check all the above and revert back,

i am very close to driving this , as that was the intended purpose,

thank you team

How much did it cost to replace fuel pump and filter, I have a damp patch in that, area?

 

[MSinghMerc]

How much did it cost to replace fuel pump and filter, I have a damp patch in that, area?

Hello , I brought from gsf, though had to return it first time as they given me thr both items for later models, and then paid a mechanic £50.

 

[Bellow]

Should I add/ top up the atf oil tomorrow??

Only if checking the level was done exactly as specified. There is usually a complicated procedure to follow before getting the required reading. If you have done that and the level is low then add more oil. If you didn't do exactly as per specified (details of how-to should be in your handbook) then repeat the measurement. During this, get some of the oil off the dipstick onto some tissue paper and look very closely for any metal particles.

Condensation at the tailpipes is normal with an engine just started from cold - more so as the weather gets colder.

 

[MSinghMerc]

Dear Bellows,

thank you, I have the Haynes manual and just read that atf is checked after 10mins of the car running, operating fluid temp is at 80c, i will check this in a few hours and revert back with photos.

if there are tiny particles of metal, then ???

 

[Bellow]

Dear Bellows,

thank you, I have the Haynes manual and just read that atf is checked after 10mins of the car running, operating fluid temp is at 80c, i will check this in a few hours and revert back with photos.

Yep do that. Low fluid level can cause slippage - which results in high engine rpm but little forward progress. Does what is happening feel the opposite of that - low rpm and little forward progress? Like trying to set off in with a manual transmission in too high a gear ie, in 2nd or 3rd instead of 1st gear?

if there are tiny particles of metal, then ???

Related to question above. Hopefully not relevant though.

 

[MSinghMerc]

Dear Bellow, and team,

A few houses down, someone called rac , and i knew the owner as I fitted his stereo, so I started asking the rac guy for some help.

He had a look and this is what he said:

1. engine oil smells of like solvent, he said change this asap
2. low on ATF oil, but he said to complete change this, and filter
also change torq converter oil

3. coolant, flush out and change completely


what do you guys think? if i change the atf and torq converter, do i need to also clear out the oat the bottom of the radiator, until it shows the red liquid?

 

[Bellow]

Dear Bellow, and team,

A few houses down, someone called rac , and i knew the owner as I fitted his stereo, so I started asking the rac guy for some help.

He had a look and this is what he said:

1. engine oil smells of like solvent, he said change this asap

That is probably independent of the current problem but if it smells of solvent then he may well be right in recommending that it be changed. Is there any reason you know of that could account for the smell - eg, use of engine flush? Oil analysis could probably identify why it smells but I'd skip that unless it's a recurring problem after an oil change.

2. low on ATF oil, but he said to complete change this, and filter
also change torq converter oil

You still haven't told me if the car when setting off feels like it has a slipping clutch or as if it's in too high a gear (if it were manual transmission) or neither. If there is a problem within the transmission it will likely have to be stripped for rebuild so little point in replacing the fluid now. It should however be topped up. Even if the fluid is due a change it should still work tolerably well enough until the current problem is eradicated or identified. There is no separate torque convertor oil - it is the same as used in the gearbox. There may be a drain plug on the TC - which is a help if/when the fluid has to be changed.

3. coolant, flush out and change completely

Again, unlikely to be relevant - unless, there is signs of oil in it or he checked the anti-freeze level and found it lacking. The former point though may warrant further investigation as there may be a breach in the trans cooler allowing engine and trans fluid to mix - a possible explanation of the solvent smell in the oil. For all of this I need to know if the trans is slipping or bogging. High or low rpm when setting off.

what do you guys think? if i change the atf and torq converter, do i need to also clear out the oat the bottom of the radiator, until it shows the red liquid?

That can wait. Meantimes sort out the ATF level and start looking for any sign of coolant in the ATF. And answer the question I keep asking - I want to rule out a failed sprag clutch in the TC.