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Rear springs w211

flt.eng

Active Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2010
Messages
209
Location
Nr. Tewkesbury
Car
E320 avantgared
Beware.
I have just replaced the rear springs on my 211 E320 avantgared & would not advise any none professional, or more than competent person to attempt this job. Unless you have the use of an MB spring compressor. But if anyone wishes to, this is what I did.
My first attempt was by trying to remove the inner lower arm bolt but found this seized. (apparently 9 out of 10 are) I do feel that had this not been the case, this would be the best method. I then took Olly's advise & used his method of dropping the sub frame one side at a time.
Firstly I had the use of a lift, which helps, but feel it would be possible without, by useing stands.
I was told you only needed to remove the bottom shock. bolt . But found the shock. needed to be removed to give enough space to get the springs out. So this means removing all the boot trim to get to the top shock nuts. At this stage I was having regrets at starting the job. Anyway get the body on stands (lift or not) & remove the wheels. Drop rear ends of under body panels (to gain access to front subframe bolt) & place a scissor jack under the hub end of arm. Remove shock absorber. Pull all wires out of there retaining clips Now place jack under sub frame & remove the 2 sub frame bolts useing a torx e18 socket with a long handle. These bolts are loctighted in. Lower the frame as far as possible. This is where lack of knowledge & no diagram comes in. Firstly the fuel filler pipe stops the sub frame dropping enough. ( this is the rear offside first to be attempted) Consequently the spring did'nt want to come out with any ease & not knowing the make up at the top of the spring, it was'nt until I had levered the sring out that I found out it consisted of a spring cap a number of shims a top cup & worst of all a center locating pin which fell out on levering the spring out. This (plastic) pin should be held in position by a small captive screw in the chassis. There was no way I could get the new spring in position with the pin in place, so had to fiddle getting it back after the spring was in. At the moment I'm not happy with this But could'nt do any more as time had run out for the use of the ramp,& I still had the nearside to do. This side was totally different, the sub frame dropped much lower as there was'nt any restriction.
This nearside took about 30 min. as opposed to 2 hrs. for the offside.
I did take photos but failed in attaching, I do'nt think they would help.
I would not have started this job if I had known. If anyone says its easy they must be dealing with a different model.
 
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So the conclusion is that the cost of Olly doing it is worth every penny![/Q

Definately. I have just spoken to Olly & he told me that I could have taken the rubber part of the fuel filler off, without losing fuel.
If I had known this it would have made things so much easier.Oh well too late now.
 
I'm not sure why you didnt take my advice? I was in my Mercedes indie today and they confirmed the most simple way of doing this job;

All you have to do is disconnect the shock absorber bottom bolt, 1 supsension arm and the anti - roll bar link. When you have done this you can simply force the lower the arm down and take the spring out. It really is that easy.

When I mentioned to them dropping the subframe they started to laugh!
 
I'm not sure why you didnt take my advice? I was in my Mercedes indie today and they confirmed the most simple way of doing this job;

All you have to do is disconnect the shock absorber bottom bolt, 1 supsension arm and the anti - roll bar link. When you have done this you can simply force the lower the arm down and take the spring out. It really is that easy.

When I mentioned to them dropping the subframe they started to laugh!

I won't be trying any other method in future so maybe anyone that needs to save money, tries your indies method. If you read my report carefully, you will see that after doing the first side I was in no mood to try anything different. I did'nt have the time to assess your method. &
was more inclined to be guided by someone like Olly than your hearsay.
By the way have you carried out this job yourself or even watched it being done.
Would you like to comment Olly.
 
You dont have to remove the subframe, just undo the bolts one side at a time. Undo the lower shocker bolts and the ARB link (filler neck jubilee clip undo a few turns) and the spring comes out easily.
 
You dont have to remove the subframe, just undo the bolts one side at a time. Undo the lower shocker bolts and the ARB link (filler neck jubilee clip undo a few turns) and the spring comes out easily.

I did say in my report that I dropped the sub frame one side at a time & it was the rubber tube part of the fuel filler that restricted the the S/Frame dropping enough.( Only on the offside). Not knowing any better I thought disconnecting the pipe at the top would result in loss of fuel as the tank was nearly full.
I had no problems with the other side, other than levering the spring out from the top instead of from the bottom. This obviously gives clearance for the spring to come out without taking out the shock. A point to mention. On removing the rear sub frame bolts about a cup full of water was released.(From both sides). Have you experianced this Olly?
Going back to AMG19 with the other suggested method, I have had a closer look & with the added familiarity of the rear suspension unit, it is possible a better method. Initially, it appeared to me that the brake backplate needed to be removed to get the lower arm bolt out. I now see this is not the case, as long as it's not prone to seizing up like the inner bolt.
But :I; don't intend to try
 
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I'm glad it's now clear my method is the easier method. I have done this job before and my indie has over 70 years combined mercedes only experience over 3 technicians so hearsay it certainly is not.

Also for the record the barrell bush bolts are not prone to seizing like the inner bush - i think it might have something to do with the inner bush being aluminium and the barrell bush bolts being steel perhaps?

Ironically the subframe bolts can and do seize occasionally.
 
Just to confirm our guys here also use the AMG19 method with the use of a transmission jack to carefully lower the assembly, its very simple.
 
I'm not sure why you didnt take my advice? I was in my Mercedes indie today and they confirmed the most simple way of doing this job;

All you have to do is disconnect the shock absorber bottom bolt, 1 supsension arm and the anti - roll bar link. When you have done this you can simply force the lower the arm down and take the spring out. It really is that easy.

When I mentioned to them dropping the subframe they started to laugh!


I have done a few this way, but with a transmission jack under the wishbone :thumb:
 
I'm glad it's now clear my method is the easier method. I have done this job before and my indie has over 70 years combined mercedes only experience over 3 technicians so hearsay it certainly is not.

Also for the record the barrell bush bolts are not prone to seizing like the inner bush - i think it might have something to do with the inner bush being aluminium and the barrell bush bolts being steel perhaps?

Ironically the subframe bolts can and do seize occasionally.

Wish I'd had access to all this information before the start. I am sure all this will help others in the future.
 

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