Recognising a Valeo Rad in a CLK

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Nick1976

New Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2014
Messages
7
Location
Chislehurst
Car
Mercedes CLK 500
Hi All,

I'm thinking of upgrading to an '02 or '03 CLK, and have seen one I'm possibly interested in bidding on, online. It's an '02 CLK 500, with just over 100k on the clock, and allegedly FSH.

The current owner doesn't know of any radiator replacement in the past, and is unaware of the Valeo problem with these, which I've read about, but have no experience of. I was wondering whether it's possible to easily, visually tell by looking at the radiator, whether indeed it is a Valeo?

As the vehicle has covered a little over 100k, is it safe to assume that it doesn't suffer from this problem, as trouble would have already occurred, or should I still be wary?

Huge thanks for your kind help. All advice very gratefully received!
 
Mine had a Valeo, and I replaced it anyway, just to be safe. You can just about spot the difference looking at the crimps on the ends of the radiator. I think (if I recall) that if the crimps are wavy, its not, but if square toothed, it is. Don't quote me on that. There is probably a link on here, or the other forum with pictures. That's how I identified mine. I have since been told by my indy that valeo are the only radiators listed in their parts catalogue, so bought a premium one from GSF instead. Maybe they now make them properly?
If you get stuck, I will take a pick of my old one, as still have it.

Neil
 
Oooh, thanks Neil. That's very useful. I'll have a bit more of a dig on here and on the other forum to see what I can find.

Really appreciate your kind offer of posting a pic of your old rad. Might come back to you and ask if that's possible, if I get stuck.

By the way, do you mind me asking what the sort of cost was for replacing your rad? Like you, if I go ahead and buy this, or another good one I would certainly want to replace an original Valeo with a new rad, to be on the safe side. That sort of work is beyond my DIY skills, though!
 
Thanks Mark. That Bulletin is very useful indeed.
 
Replacement rad was about £130. Easy job to do as well. Just drain rad, and oil cooler pipes (I was doing the pilot bush and electronic plate in gearbox at same time as already had gearbox problems/error codes) and unclip the pipes. You will need to remove the shields underneath to gain access. The aircon rad etc just unclip, and you can pull out of way. The fan also unclips. Radiator itself is alos not bolted in, and just unclips. Assuming, that is, that the 500 is the same as the 320?

Neil
 
Thanks Neil. Doesn't sound too awful, although would need to have a think long and hard, knowing my level of exerience, before taking it on. As the part itself isn't too expensive, I'm thinking the cost of getting my local specialist to do the job wouldn't be too outrageous.

Really useful info, though and I'll definitely consider doing it myself, if required as it sounds like a good project.

Thanks again! Will keep you updated with progress on the purchase, if it happens and what I find out, via this thread.
 
Hi Nick1976, I bought a 130 k mile c220 04 plate( late03 build )so it was within the time of the Valeo rad issue. I don't know what rad I have but I'm sure it's faulty as the lock up clutch vibrates ( slips) . Cost me £60 to be put on a star and test driven to diagnose. The garage also told me the level in the box was too high.( sounds like antifreeze topping it up!). I should have smelt a rat when I bought the car as the oil had just been changed. Apparently they go on for years like this but I like things to work properly.In hindsight I should have taken a bit of oil out and sent it off to a lab for a test. That's only £30!
 
Just a warning. I have a 270e and have had horrendous problems over the last two years with gearbox contamination.
The problem was that a well known MB independant and a gearbox rebuild specialist both looked and dismissed the radiator problem.
On reflection it could be that the the rad was changed prior to me buying it and leaving the contaminated oil behind.
The end result was a full gearbox rebuild and independent transmission cooler.
I spent a lot of money and still not sure that it has been fully solved.
 
Hi tombo, I reckon it's virtually impossible to change the oil completely as the torque converter will always contain some oil . I believe the glycol in the coolant swells/ softens the friction materials in the torque converter clutch and /or I guess the brake bands in the gearbox. I'm curious as to whether the gearbox/ converter prefers to work with oil at the same temperature as the engine or whether unregulated cooling( which your going to get with a separate cooler) is acceptable. A thermostatic bypass could tick that box I s'pose.
 

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