Recommended tools and general suggestions for w219 lower ball joint removal

[Aero]

Hi all,

Just wanted to find out what tools (by brand/location) you guys recommend when it comes to ball splitting and removal/install . Is the stuff on ebay ok or is it just badly made putty? anything to go for or avoid?

I've gleaned a good idea on how to go about the job from searches on this forum but my concerns/thoughts are:

a) Any pre-removal tips before breaking the tapered stud end of the ball joint away from the arm - soak in plus gas first? Will removing the brake disc make things significantly easier? - I'd rather do this outside of the car rather than underneath it (car will be on jack stands for access of course) but if needs be I'll dive under - i've healthy fear of heavy stuff dropping on me though.

b) Is unbolting the top ball joint from the top wishbone the only way to get enough wiggle room to get the removal/install tool in there? Is this the better way or is it as broad as it is long?

c) I'll be doing this on my drive hence with the car securely on jack stands and with the top ball joint detached will I have enough clearance under the ball joint for the C frame and associated attached breaker bar to wind this thing up and out? I guess I could inch the hub up slightly with the jack to provide more clearance if needed? Don't want to set myself up and find I can't get the tool in. Jack stands are the classic three leg with three hole settings. I'm keen to keep things straight especially whilst pressing a new ball joint into place if I can.

d) I'm guessing having a breaker bar to hand is a must (I have no air tools available) and have heard that a fair amount of leverage may be required to break and removal/install.

opinions welcome from all. Many thanks

 

[Stratman]

Youtube embedding seems to have changed, here's a boring old link

Basically you hit it with a hammer. If it's good enough for Edd China...

 

[Major774]

I have changed one on my W211, what a PITA.

Hardest part was pushing the lower ball joint out of the hub, I used a eBay C clamp tool with a 1/2 impact gun... No way I could have done it with a breaker bar as you need to hold the clamp still. Lucky the impact gun only requires a pull of the trigger but I still needed grab the socket (hand turning at the same time) to help it along.

As a result, I have decided to leave the other side... I will just replace it when required.

You might get lucky and the ball joint will come out with ease.

 

[Reamer]

I did these on my car. Get decent ball joint splitter. I used the tools from Amazon. Brilliant and not destructive. It is easier to disconnect as much as possible to create space.

I used a three foot breaker bar. Once started it is stiff but it will go. Just make sure it is aligned central over the ball joint. I changed my thrust arms and lower arms as well as track rod ends. Took about six hours in total.


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[Iceviolet]

Check my write up, I did this job a while ago: http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/whee...w219-cls-ball-joints-discs-pads-calipers.html

The pressing tool was from the bay, about £40 I think. Simple job.
Hardest part was splitting the old ball joint off, as reamer said get a heavy duty scissor type ball joint splitter, Apply reasonable force to the screw then keep tapping it with a hammer to break the taper, It will go with a bang!
Top ball joint did not need to be touched.
I did it on my driveway also as I have a rusting 280CE in my garage in bits!

 

[Aero]

Thanks guys for the hints. It's given me some heart to have a go at least. Worst case is I get stuck and get a pro to do and sell the tools but I'll give it a good bash first (literally!)
Cheers

 

[Major774]

Get a mate to help, makes the job easier.

Strange... I found splitting the ball joint super easy (use the scissor type tool, no hammering required). Pressing the ball joint out was definitely one tough cookie.

 

[Reamer]

I agree with Major774. The ball joint tool negates the need to hammer the joint surrounding. But it will go with a hell of a bang so don't be alarmed. I placed a log under the hub so it didn't damage the disc.

Ref the ball joint press. It's tough on the arms but more than doable.


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[Aero]

Think I'll deploy the older son to keep the installation c frame still with his builders crow bar while I pull the breaker bar. I new I could find a use for him one day!!

 

[Major774]

Excellent

Let's us know how you get on.

 

[Aero]

Well, finally got round to doing that lower ball joint with success! I did the upper one at the same time as it had about 1mm of play. Lower one had about 2mm of play which really wasn't apparent until it was taken out completely. It was squeaking like a demon though.

I took the entire knuckle off the car in the end as I couldn't get the ground clearance on the drive to use the remove/install tool in situ. Pressing out/installing only took 20 mins off car in the garage - a vice comes in handy to counter the reaction torque when your winding on pressure with a breaker bar.

Weather didn't help today but it took me about 6 hours in all as I did the front disks and pads as well. Disks and pad pins put up a fight but they lost in the end.

Definitely a case of having the right tools to do the job!

I need that beer now - I'm aching!

 

[Major774]

Awesome... Enjoy that beer!