Removing E-class Instument Cluster.

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I have removed lots of clusters and the only time they wont come out with wires is if you insert them in the wrong place... as you can see in the pic above there is quite a wide area for you to get your hooks into...
 
Well we've just about done this to death. Good advice for any one else in the future though.

My clock display lasted all of two hours on the trip to work on monday morning!!! As i haven't pushed the display all the way in i will be able to have another go at it. i will trim the rubber stops off for ease of future removal.
 
i suppose each to their own on this one, i have removed clusters from the my 129 and the w202 on may occasions by pusing it out from behind the cluster i have tried to use a tool once on the w202 and cracked a piece of plastic of it. so i just use the push method.

raj
 
i suppose each to their own on this one, i have removed clusters from the my 129 and the w202 on may occasions by pusing it out from behind the cluster i have tried to use a tool once on the w202 and cracked a piece of plastic of it. so i just use the push method.

raj

The problem is Raj, that on a loaded 210226 it is not possible to get your hand up,, and you can just touch it with two fingers
 
Further to my Dashboard woes. I have now fixed the clock and it works perfectly. I trimmed the rubber mounting pieces back and put some silicon grease on them to aid any further removal such as when i get round to fitting a new panel front.

To sum up, this is an easy fix to carry out at home it was the dash removal that was the hard part. On further investigtion, there is no gaps where the dash panel goes to push ypur hand/fingers through to push out from behind so removal tools/ wires will have to be used.;)
 
I tried the bent coathanger approach for my W210, it worked Ok with no damage, Just approach the job with caution and patience and it can be done
 
That's hard luck if you damaged the cluster while trying to remove it. :( The bent wire method should work but I have a feeling that thin adhesive wedges are sometimes used during the first assembly at the factory. :eek: This means the "first time out removal" can be very difficult necessitating pushing the cluster from the rear where force can be distributed more widely across the body of the cluster. :) Subsequent removals can be much easier and readily achieved by the bent wire method.:bannana: The advice given was sound and inline with recommended MB practice but sometimes you have to be governed by your mechanical instincts. If you feel a certain operation is going to create too great a strain on a component its best to find a different way or be prepared to break something.:eek:

I have always found that once you get them to move,then its easy, they do become stuck after several years. Thinking on this now, when I get the next one I will run my special knife all around the gap to break any stuck part to see if that helps.

Home made hooks will not work, the ends are hardened on the correct tools
 
My home made hooks worked a treat Malcolm ... perhaps i have toughened coat hangers ? ;)
 
My home made hooks worked a treat Malcolm ... perhaps i have toughened coat hangers ? ;)

Like all of these thing some do and some dont, I gave up on a late 210 with home made pullers (someone borrowed mine) and we sent the guy down to MB SW we pushed and pulled for an hour before giving up.

Its very hard comparing cars, on the 129 you have loads of room from behind, but when you can only get 2 fingers in it can be hard.
 
Congrats on your ten thousandth post Malcolm ! :)
 

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