removing front calipers on the W210

[PJayUK]

In order to change front pads and discs on a W210 do you simply need to remove the caliper carrier bolts (18mm I think) and then the small 7mm hex bolt to remove the disc? in other words there are simply three fasteners to change discs and pads?

Can the pads be changed without removing the caliper from the caliper carrier?

Sorry if these are basic questions but I am determined to do this myself and just want ti make sure I have all the info at hand!

Cheers!

 

[BlackC55]

The disc screw is 5mm allen. Bang a socket into them with a hammer as they tend to round.

First remove the caliper 7mm allen key

Remove the wear sensor and throw away.

Push back the piston with some strong grips and then pull the caliper off the carrier

Remove pads

Clean pad contact points

Remove pad carrier 18mm Socket

Undo the disc screw and hammer off disc.

Clean hub very well where the disc mounts

 

[PJayUK]

Olly what do you mean when you say to bang a socket into the 5mm hex screw on the disc? It's flush with the face of the disc so how do you do this?

 

[BlackC55]

Use an allen key on a socket and hammer it in.

 

[PJayUK]

How about an impact driver?

Would that work just as well?

 

[BlackC55]

Yes

 

[PJayUK]

Ok thanks....

Still in two minds whether to tackle it or bring it in....

Just going to be difficult as I am working away at the moment.

 

[SilverSaloon]

i did the front pads and discs on my 1994 W124 last night (same/similar setup as W210)

took about 1.5 hours in total. however nothing was siezed. Make sure you have a socket set and a breaker bar to get the caliper and carrier bolts off.

will be doing the rear discs & pads tonight, adjusting the handbrake cable at the same time.

 

[PJayUK]

Got all the gear (but not much idea as they say!) but I am going to have a crack at it myself anyway.

Just a few things that puzzle me....

Why do I need to remove the caliper and THEN the caliper carrier? Cant I just remove the whole assembly by removing the carrier and then change the pads?

When a 7mm allen key is called for to remove the caliper from the carrier would a torx drive work? I have a set of Torx (T45?) drives that I can fit onto a 10" breaker. I was planning to use these to remove the caliper retaining bolts, although I am not sure if I will have enough access to get this in the arch.

I am pretty nervous about a seized bolt after a particularly bad experience when I did this job on my Shogun. I managed to shear off the head of not one but both caliper sliders which ended up needing a whole new carrier and caliper assembly.

 

[SilverSaloon]

although not 100% same as your W210 will be (i suspect), the following links should be a good guide:

PeachPartsWiki: W124BrakePads

my 1994 has a different setup, so i assume your W210 will be the same.. you'll have the caliper with the discs sliding in, rather than having to knock out pins. the rear will have the pins. i'm tackling the rear pads and discs myself tonight.

You could (if accessable) remove the whole thing in one go, but it would make it harder to get the carrier off the disc, if it is indeed possible at all. its only 2 small bolts that wont be hard to remove. this means you can slide in the new pads into the carrior 1st before putting the caliper back in place.

if its anything like my W124, the allan key bolt will be easy to remove, put a breaker bar on the allan key to release the initial tightness and then remove with your fingers. the only bolts likely to cause you problems are the main carrier bolts which may be tight and you'll need the breaker bar.

i found due to it being in the arch, the breaker bar had only a couple of inches of movement before it hits the floor.... but enough to release the bolts to remove the breaker bar and use a standard socket bar on it to undo the rest

dont forget copper-grease on the rear of the new pads. dont forget to clean the surface of the new discs. dont forget a little bit of thread-lock on the bolts.

I always remove the 2 little caliper piston things and dip in some grease before refitting too, but its just important to make sure they move freely really. i've had one sieze before now (not on a merc mind!) meaning the pad wore excessively on one side, so good preventive maintenance to re-grease when you have it all in bits anyway.

also, before refitting the wheel, put some more copper-grease on the hub area so the wheel comes off easier next time and doesnt rust to the new disc.

as for the disc itself, if you dont have the allan key, then the torx will be fine probably aslong as it fits well. It shouldnt require any strength really. its only there to stop the disc from falling/moving when you remove the wheel. the alfa has sheered bolts here, and so did the citroen - never made any difference - the wheel bolts eventually hold everything as tight as they need to be.

As for sheering bolts, yes this is one of my nightmares too - but i've learnt, if it doesnt fit properly 1st time, its never going to fit, so get the correct fitting sockets etc. dont mangle it up as when you do eventually give up and get the right socket, the bolt wont be good enough to take it.

WD40 and Halford's SHOCK & UNLOCK may be your friend if you do get something siezed.

all IMHO !!!!

good luck!

 

[PJayUK]

Pads have been done before so I am not expecting those to be too hard. Its the carrier bolts and disc itself I am a little worried about!

 

[franey]

Where did you get the discs from?

 

[goldestate]

A small input, clean, wire brush heads and pick out crud from them it helps the allen key to get as deep as possible.
It doesn't do any harm to brush clean everything before you start.
You could try some penetrating oil well before you start WD isn't much cop by the way.

 

[SilverSaloon]

Where did you get the discs from?

you. The ones i fitted last night were the ones i bought months ago but never got round to fitting until now

 

[franey]

Thanks Silver!

I have some new ones coming soon, a new brand that is!

Also available soon will be the calipers and repair kits, especially for the older MB's plus some quite a good range of other parts in suspension and steering.

Of course, opinions will be needed so guinea pigs will be required to test some of the brake parts which will indeed be quite cheap!

 

[PJayUK]

Where did you get the discs from?

Ordered mine yesterday from a very reputable and helpful chap AKA your good self! I was really happy with the Febi ones on I put on my W220.

Not here yet, I am just doing my research ready for the job in hand!

Or did you mean the ones I put onto my Pajero?

 

[franey]

They should be hitting you shortly.

No, I meant the MB ones!

B

 

[PJayUK]

They should be hitting you shortly.

Now that would be painful!

 

[Iain]

Pads have been done before so I am not expecting those to be too hard. Its the carrier bolts and disc itself I am a little worried about!

It will be a piece of cake!

 

[johnsco]

I replaced the front pads and discs on my E300TD this weekend.
Job went very smoothly.
(Better than I dared hope).
Once I'd removed the disc retaining screw, the old disc fell right off.
No hammering needed at all.

The pad carrier bolts took a bit of shifting, but came out OK.
The caliper retaining slide-pins came out easily.
I greased the slide pins on the sliding caliper using MB brake grease.
What does anyone else use ?
No sign of any wear, at all.

The caliper piston pushed back using a G-clamp.
No sign of any sticking.
The boot was in good condition.

I used the opportunity to change the brake fluid and bleed the brakes.