Repairing rusted stone chips/scratches/scuffs

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rossyl

Active Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
693
Location
N.London
Car
CLK 230K W208 Coupe (1999)(Auto)
Hi All,

Hoping you can shed some light on this:

I was quoted (ball park figure) of £800-900 to respray a lot of my Merc CLK, my girlfriend was quoted £1,500 to respray the rear quarter and bonnet of her A Class.
The garage quoting £1500 stated that if any garage was quoting less than that they would not be using an anti corrosive base layer, nor blending in the bonnet rather than using a flat colour.

My questions:
1. What should one ensure is done when repairing rusted stone chips/scratches?
2. What is the "anti-corrosive base" what brands are there out there?
3. What is your opinion on these quotes?
4. For small stone chips that have a spot of rust, I was considering scratches out the rust, any flaking paint, and using a touch up pen. Should I be using an "anti corrosive" also?

Thanks
R
 
Hi, interested in this as I recently noticed a couple of chips, each only 1-2mm across, on my roof. I want to treat them with something before something bad happens.

How big a chip/scratch are you looking at?

Cheers,
Jon
 
First thing to do is work out whether the chip is through to metal or a base coat.

If only the base coat, use a touch up paint to delicately fill the chip.

If through to metal on a car that is not galvanised.... use a rust converter product to kill off any corrosion before using a touch up pen.
 
If it might be deeper than the base coat but hard to tell, would it be safe to use something like the Kurust pencil in any case, before applying touch up paint?

edit: read a bit that W209s were only galvanised in 2003/04. Mine was registered April 03...
 
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I've been researching for some time, and the best thing I've found for rust removal is by Bilt Hamber.

Unsure whether to use the Deox gel or the Hydrate 80 as yet, but shall come to some conclusion.

My issue is not finding a touch up pen...it's a silver car!
 
I find its better to buy an aerosol, then spray the paint into the tins cap, & then brush it on while its still 'alive' with thinners. This way leaves a neater finish. If when its dry (10 mins) you think it needs another coat,refresh the paint in your cap with another spray.
 
By the way, dont let rust converter dribble down your paintwork, it can stain
 
I've been researching for some time, and the best thing I've found for rust removal is by Bilt Hamber.

Unsure whether to use the Deox gel or the Hydrate 80 as yet, but shall come to some conclusion.

My issue is not finding a touch up pen...it's a silver car!

I have used the gel with very good results, keep it moist by covering with cling film and therefore it works for longer.
Also it doesn't stain the surrounding paint work :)
 

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