Replaced Starter, No Start Signal & Instrument Cluster Lights Stay On

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nvrau

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Joined
Jun 29, 2012
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25
Car
A160
After replacing my '02 A160's (auto) starter, all the instrument cluster warning lights are on and there is no signal to starter to start.

My starter has been intermittently failing to start over the last year or so until it became unreliable. The last time it failed to start, I was able to metre the PUR/WHT white in the battery box to confirm the starter was sent the signal to start but not even a click was heard.

I sourced and installed the replacement using the top of engine technique, not by lowering the engine. I performed the procedure with the negative removed from the battery. Although it was an extremely difficult process, there are only two areas of concern.

First, some anti-freeze was spilt when disconnecting the coolant hose from the hard plastic pipe next to the starter.

Prior to starting the job, I drained quite a bit of coolant after reading about half would need to be drained to perform the procedure. Obviously I didn't drain enough but I was close as there wasn't a large amount spilt. Certainly less than a litre as it simply gurgled out, not a solid flow. I soaked up as much as I could see in hopes of reducing the stench once the car warmed up, not because I was concerned for the engine. Perhaps something was damaged, a connector shorted or at least wet which should remain dry? Doesn't seem likely as I'm sure rain gets up there and it's quite common to steam-clean engines.

The only other concern is when I turned on the ignition, without the ECU on the throttle body connected.

I turned it on to roll up the windows. Prior to turning it on, I removed the fuel pump fuse to ensure no petrol would be pumped. It has been plugged back in. Surely MB wouldn't design the car so turning on the ignition with one of the ECU's disconnected would damage the other???

I included a picture of the lights with the key in position two. They all turn on and stay on, with the exception of the SRS light which temporarily turns off and then back on as I have the passenger seat removed and thus the seat sensor unplugged. Strangely, the other light that turns off and stays off is the seat belt light, which isn't buckled-up. If I release the hand-brake, its light stays on instead of going off. Given the engine isn't running, I haven't tried to turn the steering to reset its relevant lights. The only other time I have seen all the lights stay on is when I mistakenly turned on the ignition with the right instrument cluster plug, unplugged. That was months ago and I simple reset the codes.

I used my Bluetooth OBD II module to scan for codes but there are none. I went through the reset procedure anyway but still no difference.

I ensured both the ECU connectors and plugs on the end of the wires were securely connected by removing, looking for bent pins and reconnecting. They're all dry, oil free click when plugged in and none were soiled by the coolant.

As well, all relays are pushed all the way in and there are no blown fuses. The only starter relay is built into the starter on this car. When I metre the PUR/WHT wire, the starter isn't being sent a signal to start so at this point it isn't the starter. I tested the PUR wire at the key switch, #50, and it is sending a signal to the ECU to start.

Any suggestions where to go from here?
 

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Look at a wiring diagram
Not sure the starter relay is built into the starter :confused:
 
On the A class the starter is also coded, I've yet to find an aftermarket one that is simply plug and play, and have found only genuine MB ones to work. I found this out the hard way, engine half out twice...
 
On the A class the starter is also coded, I've yet to find an aftermarket one that is simply plug and play, and have found only genuine MB ones to work. I found this out the hard way, engine half out twice...

What do you mean coded?????
It's a a starter motor
 
That's what I thought. It comes as a virgin uncoded unit. You plug it in and that becomes your cars starter motor. I didn't believe it would make a difference, but a euro car parts one did nothing, bought a merc one and it's worked perfectly ever since. The customer still jokes that I know his car quite literally inside and out. We have tried it on a couple of other a classes to be sure , and same result every time. Only car I know that genuine or nothing for a starter motor
 
@Asa-James - eBay Australia. It's a reproduction which cross referenced to Valeo (Car Part CV PSH 550.514.082 (550514082), Starter).

@WG M-B - If you're looking in the WIS, the 2002 returns a lot of information on 2001 and under, which has separate relay. I attached a picture of my starter's part number. I believe K7 is supposed to be the relay under the firewall ECU location but my car doesn't have that relay there.
 

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That's what I thought. It comes as a virgin uncoded unit. You plug it in and that becomes your cars starter motor. I didn't believe it would make a difference, but a euro car parts one did nothing, bought a merc one and it's worked perfectly ever since. The customer still jokes that I know his car quite literally inside and out. We have tried it on a couple of other a classes to be sure , and same result every time. Only car I know that genuine or nothing for a starter motor

Probably the starters are no good. They are not coded
 
It comes as a virgin uncoded unit. You plug it in and that becomes your cars starter motor.

Bloody-hell! YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING!

Will rebuilding the original work? A new starter from MB is about $1300... If not, I will rip this one apart to see if there are any electronics or chip.

Even if, would this cause all the lights to come on and stay on???
 
You need a Valeo 458165 looking at that info, it's not a coding as such but an immobiliser that is activated/deactivated by the engine ECU. Interesting to see Valeo can get the immobilised unit, as I said before I was under the impression it was MB or bust
 
You need a Valeo 458165 looking at that info, it's not a coding as such but an immobiliser that is activated/deactivated by the engine ECU. Interesting to see Valeo can get the immobilised unit, as I said before I was under the impression it was MB or bust

I only buy them off mb. It's too much work on a 168 if the starter goes bad
 
Regardless if the starter is incorrect, the warning lights in the instrument cluster shouldn't be on. Does anyone have any insight into this? What may have caused it, what I should try next or how you over-came it?
 
Starter Replaced & Working

After being sold and installing the wrong starter, I tested the second starter at the battery with ECU starter wire to ensure it would click the solenoid and it did. So I have now done the job twice. NOTE: Several precautions need to be taken so don't do this unless you know what you're doing WITHOUT having to ask how to do it!

Given there is a lot of discussion about whether the starter has to be programmed or not to the ECU, I disassembled the solenoid after I confirmed it could not be repaired.

It does have electronics (Immobiliser) in the solenoid, as you can see from the attached pictures, so I guess it's possible it has to be programmed. Someone on another forum said the first time the starter is activated by the ECU, it's permanently associated to said ECU and cannot be used on another car.

In my case it doesn't really matter as it's installed and working now but maybe someone else may know???
 

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If this happens I just wire a starter relay into it. Use a Bosch or Valeo starter then wire a relay in. 2hr job if it goes well ;)
 

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