After replacing my '02 A160's (auto) starter, all the instrument cluster warning lights are on and there is no signal to starter to start.
My starter has been intermittently failing to start over the last year or so until it became unreliable. The last time it failed to start, I was able to metre the PUR/WHT white in the battery box to confirm the starter was sent the signal to start but not even a click was heard.
I sourced and installed the replacement using the top of engine technique, not by lowering the engine. I performed the procedure with the negative removed from the battery. Although it was an extremely difficult process, there are only two areas of concern.
First, some anti-freeze was spilt when disconnecting the coolant hose from the hard plastic pipe next to the starter.
Prior to starting the job, I drained quite a bit of coolant after reading about half would need to be drained to perform the procedure. Obviously I didn't drain enough but I was close as there wasn't a large amount spilt. Certainly less than a litre as it simply gurgled out, not a solid flow. I soaked up as much as I could see in hopes of reducing the stench once the car warmed up, not because I was concerned for the engine. Perhaps something was damaged, a connector shorted or at least wet which should remain dry? Doesn't seem likely as I'm sure rain gets up there and it's quite common to steam-clean engines.
The only other concern is when I turned on the ignition, without the ECU on the throttle body connected.
I turned it on to roll up the windows. Prior to turning it on, I removed the fuel pump fuse to ensure no petrol would be pumped. It has been plugged back in. Surely MB wouldn't design the car so turning on the ignition with one of the ECU's disconnected would damage the other???
I included a picture of the lights with the key in position two. They all turn on and stay on, with the exception of the SRS light which temporarily turns off and then back on as I have the passenger seat removed and thus the seat sensor unplugged. Strangely, the other light that turns off and stays off is the seat belt light, which isn't buckled-up. If I release the hand-brake, its light stays on instead of going off. Given the engine isn't running, I haven't tried to turn the steering to reset its relevant lights. The only other time I have seen all the lights stay on is when I mistakenly turned on the ignition with the right instrument cluster plug, unplugged. That was months ago and I simple reset the codes.
I used my Bluetooth OBD II module to scan for codes but there are none. I went through the reset procedure anyway but still no difference.
I ensured both the ECU connectors and plugs on the end of the wires were securely connected by removing, looking for bent pins and reconnecting. They're all dry, oil free click when plugged in and none were soiled by the coolant.
As well, all relays are pushed all the way in and there are no blown fuses. The only starter relay is built into the starter on this car. When I metre the PUR/WHT wire, the starter isn't being sent a signal to start so at this point it isn't the starter. I tested the PUR wire at the key switch, #50, and it is sending a signal to the ECU to start.
Any suggestions where to go from here?
My starter has been intermittently failing to start over the last year or so until it became unreliable. The last time it failed to start, I was able to metre the PUR/WHT white in the battery box to confirm the starter was sent the signal to start but not even a click was heard.
I sourced and installed the replacement using the top of engine technique, not by lowering the engine. I performed the procedure with the negative removed from the battery. Although it was an extremely difficult process, there are only two areas of concern.
First, some anti-freeze was spilt when disconnecting the coolant hose from the hard plastic pipe next to the starter.
Prior to starting the job, I drained quite a bit of coolant after reading about half would need to be drained to perform the procedure. Obviously I didn't drain enough but I was close as there wasn't a large amount spilt. Certainly less than a litre as it simply gurgled out, not a solid flow. I soaked up as much as I could see in hopes of reducing the stench once the car warmed up, not because I was concerned for the engine. Perhaps something was damaged, a connector shorted or at least wet which should remain dry? Doesn't seem likely as I'm sure rain gets up there and it's quite common to steam-clean engines.
The only other concern is when I turned on the ignition, without the ECU on the throttle body connected.
I turned it on to roll up the windows. Prior to turning it on, I removed the fuel pump fuse to ensure no petrol would be pumped. It has been plugged back in. Surely MB wouldn't design the car so turning on the ignition with one of the ECU's disconnected would damage the other???
I included a picture of the lights with the key in position two. They all turn on and stay on, with the exception of the SRS light which temporarily turns off and then back on as I have the passenger seat removed and thus the seat sensor unplugged. Strangely, the other light that turns off and stays off is the seat belt light, which isn't buckled-up. If I release the hand-brake, its light stays on instead of going off. Given the engine isn't running, I haven't tried to turn the steering to reset its relevant lights. The only other time I have seen all the lights stay on is when I mistakenly turned on the ignition with the right instrument cluster plug, unplugged. That was months ago and I simple reset the codes.
I used my Bluetooth OBD II module to scan for codes but there are none. I went through the reset procedure anyway but still no difference.
I ensured both the ECU connectors and plugs on the end of the wires were securely connected by removing, looking for bent pins and reconnecting. They're all dry, oil free click when plugged in and none were soiled by the coolant.
As well, all relays are pushed all the way in and there are no blown fuses. The only starter relay is built into the starter on this car. When I metre the PUR/WHT wire, the starter isn't being sent a signal to start so at this point it isn't the starter. I tested the PUR wire at the key switch, #50, and it is sending a signal to the ECU to start.
Any suggestions where to go from here?