Darrell
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2006
- Messages
- 12,246
- Car
- Gixxer 6, Citroen Berlingo, 911 C4S, Dacia Duster and lots of bicycles.
NEW leadwork all round is a must.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
NEW leadwork all round is a must.
There is only one chimney (as it wasn’t originally a house) and that’s led to a small leak, so it will need to be repointed and re flashed I suspect.Well as you know it is always work from the top down,you property from victorian times would have had slate on the roof,or in places where I live clay tiles,if your roof has been fitted with concrete tiles in the 50's the main concern would be has the roof timbers been uprated to take the extra weight,also any chimney stacks may need repointing,also given the age of the property and fire places that might be used may well need sleaving,so that smoke from a wood burner or coal fies does not leak into rooms,these jobs are easily done with the scaffold up,on that topic you will find local builders will get a better rate for scaffold than you could,with the repointing of your property,most builders will use small kangoos to remove the old mortar,given that you have 400 sqm to be done I would expect the work to take three weeks.
At the moment getting materials to do any building work is getting difficult,but there are signs that people are now putting off work because of the financial situation in the UK,so my advice would be for the roof to possibly use the slate effect tiles that will give the property the look it had when it was built ,but whatever you choose make certain you have all the materials onsite,to complete the roof,and have the scaffold up before the roofers turn up.
Having done a number of properties over the years I well remember being under prepaired for the trades coming onsite,if you make someone in charge of the build make certain they know what they are doing.
Good adviceThe damp around the windows might just be condensation through lack of ventilation. Don't do anything drastic yet. i rented out a Victorian terraced for a few years, main bedroom window reviel was black on my return, turned out the window was never opened. Get a dehumidifier in there and open the windows during the day,
If only you were closer. I’ve been saying that to my wife since we’ve been eying up this property!
3 months is ridiculous. He's having you on unless he only intends to do 2 hours a day! I'd be asking your surveyor what he thinks.Yes he said 3 months. If doing the whole building then there is quite a lot of brickwork, my very quick estimate would be around 400 m2 after deducting windows - but even then 3 months still seems a very long time!.does that sound right?
I think he was either trying it on, or if I give him the benefit of the doubt making it a bigger job to make it worthwhile. I’ll wait until I see the quotes from the guy today - see last post for more on that3 months is ridiculous. He's having you on unless he only intends to do 2 hours a day! I'd be asking your surveyor what he thinks.
The windows have a natural stone cill, and externally have quite a significant overhang from the wall, however your point regarding a drip line is a good one.Regarding your window cills, assuming you're talking about the external ones, it's well worth checking they still have a viable drip line, ie a line under the cill from which rain can drip, rather than running along the underside of the cill and penetrating the walls.
And a pass or two with an angle grinder.Worthy of investigation
It’s called an anti capillary groove.Regarding your window cills, assuming you're talking about the external ones, it's well worth checking they still have a viable drip line, ie a line under the cill from which rain can drip, rather than running along the underside of the cill and penetrating the walls.
A stone chill should have an anti capillary groove. When we used to cast a cull with a shutter we would pin a length of sash cord in it to form the groove.The windows have a natural stone cill, and externally have quite a significant overhang from the wall, however your point regarding a drip line is a good one.
The stone is quite weathered - it’s in an exposed location with harsh weather - and so there may not be the same crisp edge that would have originally been the case.
Worthy of investigation
I’ll have a look next time I’m there but I think it may be flatA stone chill should have an anti capillary groove. When we used to cast a cull with a shutter we would pin a length of sash cord in it to form the groove.
As I'd literally just got back from a 5hr drive, I couldn't remember!It’s called an anti capillary groove.
This may well be proving to be the case, at least in part. Thank you once moreThe damp around the windows might just be condensation through lack of ventilation. Don't do anything drastic yet. i rented out a Victorian terraced for a few years, main bedroom window reviel was black on my return, turned out the window was never opened. Get a dehumidifier in there and open the windows during the day,
Thank you for sharing. Did you apply it only to the brick face, or go the whole wall j clouding the mortar?Once the reclaimed bricks are in, they probably won't be amazing at repelling water, especially if the front face is micro abraded from reclamation handling.
Consider a water repellant brick sealer.
I had a problem just like you are describing with some slightly spalled 1907 bricks, and one coat of this product (when scaffold was up for putting a new EPDM roof on) stopped the water ingress. It was quite remarkable. Stormdry.
Stormdry Masonry Water Repellent - 3L | Wickes.co.uk
Stormdry Masonry Water Repellent - 3Lwww.wickes.co.uk
Other products exist.
Thanks for updating us with progress, always good to hear how these things get on.
Just everywhere, rollered on like the pic on the linkThank you for sharing. Did you apply it only to the brick face, or go the whole wall j clouding the mortar?
That’s much appreciated, thank you.Just everywhere, rollered on like the pic on the link
Only only applied to the top 1m of bricks on the house, as they were the only ones affected, due to exposure to the elements much more than the lower bricks. I couldn't really tell that they had been treated after it had dried, but that might have been masked by the fact those bricks were much rougher looking.
Whichever product (if you go this route), I'd recommend it's worth trying a discrete couple of bricks out of the way, leaving it to dry and seeing how much of a noticeable difference there is before deciding to do a partial or full wall coating.
In my case, the building wasn't listed, money was tight, and weather proofing was 100% higher priority than any subtle appearance inconsistencies.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.