Rust protection question

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DetailerDan

Active Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2019
Messages
317
Location
Cheshire
Car
W204 c250 cdi amg sport
Right guys, i currently have my rear arch liners removed from my w211 and have cleaned them all, the question is which rust inhibitor do you recommend for my inner arches. I have some clear waxoyl but I've heard good reviews about the bilt hamber stuff but i am struggling to get hold of it locally. Any other products you guys can recommend to me or do i stick will what ive got. The arches are in superb condition with no sign of corrosion i would just like to try my best to keep it this way
 
The trouble with applying stuff like Waxoil is it makes it difficult to see when rust is starting to develop in hidden areas such as inner wheel arches. If there is no rust now leave it as it is and keep it in that 'factory' state by regular arch jetwashing and periodic inspection. If subsequently you do find rust in an underbody area then apply a rust converter/ inhibitor. A good one i use is called Vactan.

Vactan — Performance Chemicals
 
I am a fan of dinitrol ( used on gritters each yr after gritting season ends where we are ) and have sprayed it many times after any bad patch’s have been hand painted with krust and left to dry , then give dinitrol a day to dry and finish with good coat of stone chip even use the airosols for handiness
 
Have a look at Lanoguard . Alternatively coat the inner arches with fibreglass resin ( this would be my choice) . What you are trying to do is keep out moisture . I lost faith in so called rust inhibitors a long time ago.
 
Dinitrol do some pretty good stone chip and cavity wax type products and sure they would have something suitable. I wouldn't use rc900 though, I thought it was pretty poor.
 
Have a look at Lanoguard . Alternatively coat the inner arches with fibreglass resin ( this would be my choice) . What you are trying to do is keep out moisture . I lost faith in so called rust inhibitors a long time ago.
Don't do this, it's asking for trouble. Resin is too brittle and would come unstuck from the arch I'm sure and then you've got somewhere to trap moisture between the 2 layers.

I would prep the surface very well. Paint with 2k epoxy primer which is all but indistructable and finish with some kind of cavity wax and put the liner back. That will last for years and years
 
Don't do this, it's asking for trouble. Resin is too brittle and would come unstuck from the arch I'm sure and then you've got somewhere to trap moisture between the 2 layers.


I agree, even tough underseal can be the death of a car once water gets behind it. Better to put some cavity wax on and inspect it regularly.

For whatever reason attempts to encapsulate steel with thick coatings doesn't seem to work as water somehow gets behind it and is trapped. Many years ago when I was working on chemical plant construction for ICI we had the wonderful idea of setting up an on site workshop for powder coating all the steel work and brackets etc that were small enough to get into the ovens. It was a total disaster with ordinary painted steel work last several times longer than the powder coated stuff. The problem with thick coatings is when they fail, they hide the damage being done until it's too late.
 
As usual, a subject which tends to get emotive and depends on personal preferences but for the last few years I've always used Bilt Hamber products. I've also had excellent results with them after checking the status of the job every few months.

There are several to choose from but for what you need it for, I'd go for the Dynax-UB. I've used it on several bits and pieces and, unlike a traditional underseal, it doesn't set hard and start to crack thereby allowing water in. I've also used their Dynax-S50 but this is more for cavity use, such as inside chassis rails/subframes etc.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys i am going with the bilt hamber i think
 

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