S210 (02' E320CDI) Injector Crud...

[Tubz]

Well finally bought a new MAF insert today, but in removing the engine cover looks like my Injectors have been leaking a long while (another thing Stuttgart in Ponty failed to spot, so not even sure they changed my oil after my last rant in an earlier post tonight!)

Anyway is the black crud build up from diesel alone or is there perhaps another oil feed pipe somewhere that i'm not aware of that could be leaking? ...I've just spent 2 hours cleaning what can only be described as 'bacolight' from around the injectors...Some bad leaks that we're being supported by the crud it seems and now that i've cleaned it a bit it won't start again as i've got some bad leaks! So, assume i'm looking at possible new injectors..Looked for a write up/pics on here but can't see much - Anyone done an FAQ on the removal or is there a exploded diagram to see whether i might service seals myself?

 

[proser]

This is from the injector to head seals leaking (common). you need to clean out as much as possible before attempting to remove the injectors, as it acts as a glue
Some people soak it with coke, I have used Mr Muscle oven cleaner with very good affect.
when you do start to remove the injectors, take it carefully as the rover cover is easily damaged - very thin ali. Also when you remove the stretch bolt that holds the injector clamp in place make sure you don't get any of the crud down the hole, also make sure you clean out the thread with a tap before re-assembly.
the face of the head, where injector seats, will probably need re-cutting. I have be fortunate not to have had to do mine, other than cleaning the faces; and have no leaks in over a year.

Before re-assembly clean everything up, apply injector grease (may have the wrong name) to the body of the injector and the new seals. clean out the bolt hole with a tap (already mentioned) fit new stretch bolts (some also advise new clamps).
the tightening sequence is: tighten to 8lb in2, then 90 degrees, then 90 degrees - may be slightly out and hopefully someone will be along to correct.

HTH

 

[Tubz]

Hey Mark thanks for the reply...It's that thick in there it was caked up over the stretch bolts like a gasket! - Does the fuel element evaporate leaving the heavy oil behind to turn to sticky mess then?..I thought someone had poured some form of sealant along the cover to disguise a crack or hole. When I turn it over I'm getting spray now, so seals are indeed shot, or I do have a couple of cracks Near injector 2 and 4! (1 being front?)

Anyway - More questions - I was worried about putting cleaner in in case it leaks in past the faulty seals...I topped with diesel last night to soak but soaked it out again in case this was plastic rather than deisel/oil on the cover ....cleaning it out is the PITA!

Where's best for Seal Kits - Euro parts? or do MB do one? Are there any pics of the injectors out showing the seats anywhere you've seen or an exploded diagram from a manual...Want to have a nose before i tinker and consider where MR Muscle might go!

on my 300ZX forum we've got an online service manual...Very handy if you're competent but just unfamiliar, rather than inexperienced!

 

[Dieselman]

the tightening sequence is: tighten to 8lb in2, then 90 degrees, then 90 degrees - may be slightly out and hopefully someone will be along to correct.

HTH

7Nm, then 90 deg and 90 deg.

 

[proser]

Where's best for Seal Kits - Euro parts? or do MB do one? Are there any pics of the injectors out showing the seats anywhere you've seen or an exploded diagram from a manual...Want to have a nose before i tinker and consider where MR Muscle might go!

on my 300ZX forum we've got an online service manual...Very handy if you're competent but just unfamiliar, rather than inexperienced!

Seals and bolts from Dealers, not expensive and you know they are correct.

you can sign up to MB online parts catalogue for about £12 a year, just don't have the url to hand at the mo.

I wouldn't worry too much about MM, some may get past your seals (as diesel is spray out from them) but will get burnt away when you fire the engine up, other than that it'll sit in the wells of where the injectors are - exactlly where you want it. MM will just soften up the crud and turn it into tar and make it a little easier to get out. I have had it bad, but not that bad, spent time cleaning it all out and now no sign of any of this crud. The only thing is it make the plastic wiring plugs, to the injectors, a little brittle and hard therefore lose the ability to clip into place - a small zip tie sorts that out though.
After a couple of hours soaking, agitate with nylon brush and pick out anything sticky, then hose down - the water will drain out the back. Repeat until you are happy.

 

[Transalpir]

I've had this problem and soaked mine with diesel, then cleaned out he best i could as Proser surgests. I then dried off with compressed air before trying to free the injectors.

5 came free with relative ease 1 was a beast to do with wracking it back n forth for about an hour sread over 2 days and soaking with GT85 each time. I bought new seals and strech bolts. Clean these bolt holes and bolw them out with compressed air. the injector seals can be difficult to remove if they stick to the bottom of the hole. I got laser brand copper seal tool and a draper expert injector seat recutter to mine. This made the job very easy indead.

The injector grease is a high melting point CERAMIC GREASE I coated the whole of the main injector shaft and was pleased I had when some time later they needed to come out again to take the head off. They slipped out with great ease.

Above all, take it very slowly releasing those clamp bolts as you can do a lot of damage if you go mad at them, so ease the preassure on gradually and they should be fine!

I got my supplies from MBSpecialists find them through a google seach.