Scratch marks

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T cut and elbow grease mate, make it like new. Only trouble is other side might take a bit of buffing to match.
You may end up with pop eye arm lol
Rub away hay hay till it hurts and then give it some.
Burning bones phew (",)
 
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Some of those marks look down to the plastic so it probably needs a respray. Good time of year to try a smart repair.

S
 
Good prepping and a decent lacquer top coat..
Like been said looks down to Base so primer and colour then lacquer.
I prefer high gloss finish but satin or matt much easier to aply and finish.
Gloss finish takes a few coats and 200 grit paper :thumb:
 
They would require to be touched up.

If to be very technical, they could be touched up, wet sanded & then machine polished. All depends on what equipment and knowledge is available. May be worth trying a detailing specialist for that job?
 
They would require to be touched up.

If to be very technical, they could be touched up, wet sanded & then machine polished. All depends on what equipment and knowledge is available. May be worth trying a detailing specialist for that job?
I agree with this i think wet sanding is the only way to get rid of the small gauges.

Tony.
 
So is that G3 scratch remover paste not too good then? It looks like it did a better job on the metal arch part no?
 
So is that G3 scratch remover paste not too good then? It looks like it did a better job on the metal arch part no?

It's fine, with scratches like that, once the contamination is cleaned off, you will be making the damage worse by polishing off even more paint.

In general, scratch removers like G3 paste are ok, but these would only work on faint scratches which have not passed through the clear lacquer coat. Anything that has gone through the clear coat, can actually get worst from heavy application of heavily compounded scratch removers and polishes.

I would still polish the area after use of G3, whilst it treats the scratch, it leaves lots of micro scratches behind due to the heavy abrasiveness. The micro scratches will usually only be visible in direct sunlight and will look like heavy swirls/holograms/dull areas.

Hope this helps.
 
So is that G3 scratch remover paste not too good then? It looks like it did a better job on the metal arch part no?

I guess so, that arch part near the wheel is fine but the main body isn't looking too great. But i guess those are "light scratches" and the ones above are the tougher ones.

I'd say i'm pretty good with DIY so i'll give Chipex ago, worst case i'll just get a smart repair. I'll be sure to post my results in the next few weeks once it arrives, typical british weather has started playing up again so will wait a few weeks!
 
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T cut not a good idea .You will remove top clear coat .I know i have the teashirt,as the saying goes. Purchased a second hand wing .It had a scratch on it .About 2 inches long not deep ,only that it went white..I played with Tcut only to make it worse.So dont use T cut.Get a paint repair guy to visit you like i did, The cost just £45 job done and he made a first class job of it.He had computer to mix the paint to my code. I have the picture before and after the job .
 
Shame about the damage :(
I'd be very careful choosing your repair agent, silver is one of the worst colours to match. You can get a horrible halo effect where the new and old paint start. There are still some contamination in those scratches. I'd be tempted to do a tiny touch up repair, dot in the paint (cocktail stick),remove excess paint then clear coat, then polish back. It will be the cheapest way and you are only painting the scratches.
Or, alternatively, leave well alone and ignore it and put it down to wear and tear. It is a car after all. I know this seems harsh, but nothing life stays perfect for long ;)
 

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