Self-levelling problem.

[Druk]

Not the car but the garage.

Garage measures 5.2m X 3.5m. Concrete floor has a 40mm run to one end. This may not seem much but when you're pushing an SL about, the tendency for it to run downhill is getting to me.

Q. Is there any mixable stuff that I could use to pour onto and level the floor up that would go from 40mm to nothing and that wouldn't crack up given time? Would I need to roughen the existing smooth concrete first?

 

[219]

How about an anchor point at the 'high' end and a bungee rope ( of the kind used by bungee jumpers ) from that to the towing eye on the car to negate the gravity effect ?

Maybe cheaper and simpler than resurfacing the floor for all the times you'll push the car around ?

 

[wemorgan]

How about an anchor point at the 'high' end and a bungee rope ( of the kind used by bungee jumpers ) from that to the towing eye on the car to negate the gravity effect ?

Maybe cheaper and simpler than resurfacing the floor for all the times you'll push the car around ?

I agree. Resurfacing the garage floor is a pain in the back, literally.

Buy a multi-block and rope from a sailing shop.

edit: or what about those motors that attach on to caravan wheels, whould that be suitable?

 

[prprandall51]

I looked at this sort of problem in depth a few years ago. The biggest problem is that there is a substantial minimum thickness you will need if the top surface isn't to break up or separate from the base. It would need to be about 20-25mm (if I remember correctly) so your floor is going to rise best part of 3 inches at its lowest point. The materials I was looking at were latex-based self levelling compounds, or something like that. In the end, the increase in floor level was such an issue I abonded the idea (the step up into the garage would have caused problems).

 

[jonnyboy]

Derek

I've just built a 6m double garage and we purposely ran the concrete out from back to front by around 2" to cope with any flooding etc.
What is your drainage like at the front end? If its good (ie you have a linear drain across the front or whatever) then whatever you end up doing will work. If no drainage, don't consider anything.
The fact is you will need to use a scabbler or whatever to get the surface down enough to get a minimum of 75mm new screed on. No self levelling compounds will work. You want to use a strong concrete mix like a c35/c40.
It will be hellish work, and the implications are massive (racking/workshop stuff etc, plus, don't you have a ramp in there?
For me, the solution is to manage the problem. The block and tackle idea, or maybe how about some slightly cushioned garage flooring which will reduce run-away as the tyres may lightly compress the surface therefore slow down ?

 

[Druk]

^ Thanks John. My problem with the run is it's to the back of the garage. (crappy builders ). The block and tackle suggestion is impracticable -I'm ex patrol boat skipper so am well versed in them- and the hoist is the problem cos the car has to be shuffled back and forward to position the arms underneath. I was hoping to use some sort of epoxy based levelling compound but if it's not to be then hey-ho. An additional bonus was going to be burying the lifting cables and hydraulic pipe that runs across the floor and at present is covered by a humped plate. My intention is to treat myself to that hard synthetic flooring of the type that's used in wet rooms and hospital corridors. Anyone know what that's called BTW?

 

[219]

Could you just put a pair ( even one might do ) of 'bump stops' on the floor at the point where the front wheel(s) need to stop when the car is correctly positioned ? Much like the ones in automatic car washes , so that you drive the car forward until you feel resistance then apply parking brake . Or is the problem that once the car is positioned over the hoist , you can't open the door to get out ?

 

[Druk]

Without going into minutae, life would be much easier if the floor was level. The thing has to be pushed back and forth several times to get it set up for the hoist. But! I've been doing it for three years now so I'll just have to persevere. Not to worry.

 

[Sp!ke]

Couldnt you level the car with a couple of strips of steel plate raised at one end like a very low ramp? They could be bolted to the ground so would never move.

Job could be done in a couple of hours too.

 

[SilverSaloon]

take down the hoist and donate it to another SL owner.

Your problem is solved.

 

[del320]

Without going into minutae, life would be much easier if the floor was level. The thing has to be pushed back and forth several times to get it set up for the hoist. But! I've been doing it for three years now so I'll just have to persevere. Not to worry.

are you going off topic here?

Anyways - three years ago you were only 67...

...mmm... s'pose increased iron oxide is making the car lighter tho' - climate change 'n' a' that...

 

[Druk]

are you going off topic here?

Anyways - three years ago you were only 67...

Bad Del. Three years ago I was only 57. Now you know why you never got an invite to the party. Got my bus pass through last week so maybe wont need the car much anymore.

 

[jonnyboy]

Don't try pushing the bus on the ramps mate

 

[del320]

Bad Del. Three years ago I was only 57. Now you know why you never got an invite to the party. Got my bus pass through last week so maybe wont need the car much anymore.

he-he - get mine in February - auld yin!

 

[jonnyboy]

Derek

Dont give up yet, I'm still thinking about it. My brother had a disaster up north with a screed in his conservatory, I know he's got some guys coming in to sort it and their speciality is sorting out screed problems and cockups.

I'll get him to have a word, any chance of some pics from outside looking in to help me visualise? Ta

 

[Druk]

Cheers John. Here is what I've got without dragging the cars out. Let me know if it's suffish. The faint line along the back wall is roughly level from zero at the front edge. You can just see the edge of the brick pier at the front door..

When I installed the hoist I had a bit of levelling bother and used jacking bolts to get the height then shuttered and poured some sort of machinery grout under. It's less than 3/4" in places and has stood the test....but then it's not over a great area. I'm still considering Spike's steel ramp idea although it would have to be full width for it not to be a tripping hazard.

 

[Piff]

I recently had a thin screed laid. Screeders asked me to supply "SBR" additive (see Toolstation item 18528). I got mine from a local plastering supplies wholesaler at £10 + VAT/5 litres.
They painted the floor with it & added it to the mix to allow them to bond the screed to the underlying concrete. This allowed them to lay a 1" thick screed.
A room slightly smaller than a single garage used 4 x 5 litres.

 

[jonnyboy]

To my mind the only way to do it would be to scabble away enough existing concrete at the front end to make it level with the pencil line at the back end, then pour a very strong screed to suit.

Just a thought - as I can't see the driveway etc, what would be the implication of lowering the front intead of raising the back ? Use a 3 head scabbler, then a concrete polisher to get a nice surface. Then all you need to do is re-bolt the hoist down normally? Obvious implications are drainage/40mm step at the front, and the height of the garage door, no prob if its a roller door of course.

Step back a bit for the next pic mate )

 

[219]

From memory , Derek's drive goes uphill towards his garage - so I wouldn't think water running in would ever be a problem .

 

[Druk]

Solved.

Done it at last. 1" x 2" timber batons levelled off and screwed to the floor, screeded inbetween with high strength granite mix, 1" of marine ply laid on top. Finished off with high density vinyl flooring. Aluminium checkerplate cover on the hoist cables.

Tickety-boo.... if I say so myself.