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Should I polish a new car?

ummmm white is good:

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On every visit to my local main dealer over the last year I've been horrified by the orange peel in the paint of brand new cars. This isn't MB specific, every new car seems to be the same. It's one of those things I'd never noticed before, and now I see it everywhere. The last 2 new cars I bought were a GLK350 and a Mitsubishi Pajero and I don't remember seeing it on them? but then I wasn't looking too hard to at that time.

Other than the orange peel, any scratches, swirls, holograms etc should be sorted by the dealer at the pre delivery inspection and I would ask them to rectify them before proceeding to have a wax/sealant applied.

And to be fair to detailed and others, a good proportion of the work on new cars they've posted has been paid for by the dealer when the car has arrived to them either sub standard from the manufacturer or picked up issues in transit. At least thats how it seems.

In the context of my previous post, even if this type of orange peel paint job can be fixed I'd imagine 2500 grit wet and dry would be required followed by various grades of compound and I doubt many folk would do that to a brand new car. I certainly wouldn't, or not until the warranty had expired anyway.

My old beater w124 it gets a lick of cheapo wax every few months, and I'll probably use gtechniq on my w140, but not sure I'd want to be brandishing a rotary loaded with compound on a car worth the same as a bungalow.

It certainly helps to have a second car to practise on thats for sure. When I started working on cars myself I used to go the local scrappy and dismantle the same part on a car in there as a practise run before attempting it on my own car. Maybe they'd let me in there with a rotary for some practise!
 
I have actually only completed one car in my entire career that was paid for by the dealership. All my work is based on clients who just like taking there car to the next level. Dealerships do not care for swirls and RDS's, if the car is clean, then it's good to go.
 
So nobody would consider using a nano sealant to save having to keep waxing?
 
I use a sealant (CarLack68) but still use wax as the final layer.

Use of a wax on top of a nano sealant is apparently not recommended (by Diamondbrite anyway). I may go down the route of Diamondbrite and if (when) the beading-off fails, despite using a conserver every month, then I shall apply some Collinite.
 
Detailers would seem to disagree! The combo with Collinite works very well :)
 
Detailers would seem to disagree! The combo with Collinite works very well :)

That's interesting. I had the contrary view from the detailer who has quoted for the Diamondbrite. If it is safe to use Collinite on top of the sealant then perhaps this gives the best of both worlds?
 
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Carlack is not a nano sealant it is a paste sealant. For long durability I favour polymer glass coats but not diamond brite. It's just another product that loves to claim but doesn't work anywhere near the time it says. I can not stress enough to use G-techniq, nanolex, hi moah's coat etc. This is where the no gimmick protections are at.
 
I second GTechniq, been bashing on about them since I applied it because it's incredible how C1 repels everything. I put their C3 wax on top of their nano sealant and only good has come out of that so I don't see any harm in putting a wax on top of a sealant
 
Carlack is not a nano sealant it is a paste sealant. For long durability I favour polymer glass coats but not diamond brite. It's just another product that loves to claim but doesn't work anywhere near the time it says. I can not stress enough to use G-techniq, nanolex, hi moah's coat etc. This is where the no gimmick protections are at.

Could you explain what defines the two types?
 
Could you explain what defines the two types?

Car lack 68 is pretty much the same formular as Werkstat acrylic jett and acrylic prime. It is a poly acrylic sealant that is known formula for stretching and bonding at quite an unbreakable rate. Its syntheticly formed and commonly comes in liquid.

Quartz composite laquer is a product that actually swaps part of its molecular structure with the molecules on the paints surface. By doing this, it actually becomes the active surface of your vehicle, therefore stronger then the 'physical bond' you recieve from a polymer sealant. Along with this you get a crystalline film bonding to the surface, which will help light swirls and marring, and a biomimetic surface that mimics the repellency a lotus plant has against water.

I too love acarylic prime, but im not going to lie, I have never seen it last one year. It looks the best on white, but then I have recently applied C1 to a brand new a6 and it was crazy. White doesnt reflect very well, so my aim is to give that plastic 'pop' look that looks wet. Glass coats are the way forward in durability and marring. They can even give a good gloss factir as long as the car has being completly Paint corrected. As these quartz dont bond to silicone filled paint.
 
These posts have been very interesting. Much as I am sort of persuaded to go for the Diamondbrite sealant, the general advice is that it will not last very long despite using a conserver in a monthly wash. The guarantee does not appear to cover beading, being only bird lime etc which can lead to the guarantee being wriggled out of. It is the protection and beading that I am looking for.
Thus I think now that purchasing some Collinite 476 and applying that may be my best course of action - plus also giving me some change out of £180.
I have tried to locate a detailer in my area who is prepared to put the effort in and give the car a first couple of coats of wax, but there seems to be a dearth of detailers locally to contact!
 
lol I'll happily prove to you that the only car I have worked on from the factory that was perfect was a Veyron and a zonda s. But I have seen both these completed by other guys that were not in perfect condition.

I have been in the detailing business since 1996 and I can only agree with wath Detailed is saying. I have never seen a factory new car with a perfect paint arriving from the factory. Most dealers don't have really trained detailers and just use some young guys to wash the car clean before delivery and if you get your car from that type of dealer you will be doing you and your car a big favor by taking it to a good detailer that can sort it out for you from the get go. It will give you as an owner a much easier ground to continue maintaining your cars exterior on
/ Mike
 

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