SL55 AMG - ABC Left Rear Strut - Need Part Number + Best Place To Buy

[C a r s e]

Hi,

I need to buy a rear left hydraulic shock absorber (strut) for my SL55 AMG and have been told the following part numbers will fit:
A 230 320 47 13
A 230 320 31 13
A 230 320 53 13

Can someone please confirm if all three listed above will fit or confirm what the correct part number would be? (Can I check online somewhere)

AND

Where is the best place to purchase a new or reconditioned ABC strut?

 

[richard]

Post your VIN number too.

 

[C a r s e]

Post your VIN number too.

My vin is wdb 230 474 2f060626

 

[karozza]

IIRC my rear right strut part number 230 320 3213 & so your rear left strut part number, A 230 320 3113 sounds right. As far as I know, the A 230 320 47 13 is just a later part number for the same item.

I would recommend buying a re-conditioned unit from Arnott just as I did, who are also based in Europe. Also, IIRC, they have a lifetime warranty but you can check with them.

It definitely has to be an AMG unit & not a regular SL.

 

[C a r s e]

IIRC my rear right strut part number 230 320 3213 & so your rear left strut part number, A 230 320 3113 sounds right. As far as I know, the A 230 320 47 13 is just a later part number for the same item.

I would recommend buying a re-conditioned unit from Arnott just as I did, who are also based in Europe. Also, IIRC, they have a lifetime warranty but you can check with them.

It definitely has to be an AMG unit & not a regular SL.

I will give them a call tomorrow and get a price.

What is IIRC?

 

[Jeff666]

"If I remember correctly"

 

[C a r s e]

Ah.....thanks!

 

[karozza]

Make sure you check with them regarding the core charge of your unit. You can return your defective unit for a refund. Just put it in the box they sent the new unit & return postage is all included.

 

[C a r s e]

I have now ordered my new rear strut.

Anyone got any guides on removal and fitting? Do they need to be coded to car?

 

[richard]

They need Star Diagnosis to install properly (does some sort of automated movement sequence to bleed the hydraulic system). Its fun to watch the car bounces all its corners in sequence

R

 

[pstock]

Star not required, at least I never needed it, just activated raise and lower about 25 times, Keep an eye on fluid level do not allow pump to run dry !!!

On a CL, TOP three small nuts beneath the rear parcel shelf + remove plug LOWER, 1 nut attaching to lower control arm, quick release fitting to the strut ( hydraulic line ), pop off height sensor arm, a long lever bar and the rear strut can be removed, maybe a couple of other things ie handbrake cable can't remember couple of years since I did mine.

HTH

 

[richard]

Star not required, at least I never needed it, just activated raise and lower about 25 times, Keep an eye on fluid level do not allow pump to run dry !!!

Yup, I have looked up the procedure, and you don't need to use the automated function in Star, there is a manual procedure. It is described in WIS document ar32.50-p-0021n but its (c) Daimler so I wont cut/paste/etc but you can google it.

The document on how to replace rear struts is ar32.25-p-1016r again google is your friend.

R

 

[C a r s e]

Very useful thanks guys.....wish me luck

 

[karozza]

If you tell us the day you will be fitting the new unit, we could be online at that time & give you some assistance if you get stuck.

Do not try to take off the spring control arm (lower arm) as sometimes suggested This can create a world of pain as the bolt may be jammed; just take off the nut & slack the bolt using it just as a pivot to lower the arm away from the disc

According to Mercedes proceudre:
Each time a suspension strut is
exchanged the plunger travel sensors must
be calibrated using STAR DIAGNOSIS in the
control unit adaptations menu.

I did not do this & I wonder if the car may benefit if done?!

 

[C a r s e]

If you tell us the day you will be fitting the new unit, we could be online at that time & give you some assistance if you get stuck.

Do not try to take off the spring control arm (lower arm) as sometimes suggested This can create a world of pain as the bolt may be jammed; just take off the nut & slack the bolt using it just as a pivot to lower the arm away from the disc

According to Mercedes proceudre:
Each time a suspension strut is
exchanged the plunger travel sensors must
be calibrated using STAR DIAGNOSIS in the
control unit adaptations menu.

I did not do this & I wonder if the car may benefit if done?!

I pick up the new strut tomorrow morning, I ended up purchasing it from Mercedes as Arnott didn't have them in stock, however after much haggling I only paid £135 more at Mercedes + I don't need to pay shipping to return exchange.

I'm hoping to fit the strut over the long weekend not sure when yet though.

Mercedes did mention that it would need to be coded to the car, i'm guessing they meant calibrated. I was wondering if it would work without getting plugged into the STAR but you have confirmed it does (I'll worry about that later).

Would a litre of fluid do to top it back up?

 

[karozza]

Hi Carse, I have checked with my Indy & confirmed it does not need to be set up with STAR. Just replace unit & raise/lower the suspension for bleeding & you'll be fine. This is what I did too.

You lose very little fluid when releasing the pressure by means of the bleed screw close to the strut. Just a keep a liter of fluid & top up as necessary.

 

[BlackC55]

It's always best to calibrate the ABC after fitting any parts.

 

[V8 Supercharger]

Fluid loss will be minimal, probably less than a litre, but its best to jack the entire rear end of the car off the floor for about 20-30 mins to release the pressure from the ABC system.

 

[pstock]

If you're changing one strut maybe it's worth erring on the side of caution and book a calibration/rodeo session with your local indie after installing and raising & lowering, take a quick measurement of both sides I'd they are the same (ish) jobs a good un, if not then calibrating will be required.

I changed both rears so didn't have a problem with height.

WD 40 the quick coupling a couple of days prior to the removal as they are a pain to undo on older cars, also if your bleed nipple is hard to undo don't force it release the pressure from the rear block to that strut. New lines are expensive and a mare to fit..

 

[C a r s e]

Hmmm.....

Just started removing my strut.

Im struggling to Detach the spring control arm from rear axle, I have remover the 18mm bolt from one side however there is a T55 torque at the other side which is not budging :/