slk auto stalling after rebuild

[Shawny69]

OK, started this and then I dont know where the post went, so I will try again.

About 2-3 months ago got 98 slk 230 with 57k.

Had problem with gearbox (water in oil) resulting in full rebuild inc torque converter and new rad by gear torque of Bolton and the first attempt wasnt right as they apparently put in the wrong ratio set as they had one built up, either way it had to be done again.

Anyway, all seemed fine till a couple of days ago when the car was started, and the reverse selected, it spluttered and then died, restarted fine but had to give it more revs to stop it stalling when reverse engaged, once it was warm it was fine. I thought this was just a one off as it had been stood for a couple of days and it was -4.

Once warm it was fine.

Anyway, just tried it again and same thing happened.

Until I can speak to gear torque again, anyone any thougts? Also, I do notice that when drive is engaged, there seems to be a fair bit of creep, before the accelerator is pressed, how much is normal, snails pace or walking pace?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers

 

[television]

Regarding the creep when in D, this is proportional to the idle RPM,a difference of 25 RPM can make a big difference

I have never heard of a rad going down on a SLK

 

[Shawny69]

thanks for the info, the glycol test showed that there was contamination, hence the replacement rad. When the gearbox was stripped, there was significant evidence of water ingress.

The car is due to go back for a 1000 mile fluid check, but I just wanted thoughts on the stalling issue

 

[Shawny69]

Just to give anyone watching an update, went back to gear torque and the diagnostic check showed a battery over volt fault, so they suggested a new battery, original one says mb on white sticker, so it could be the one from new.

Anyway, he offered to re-do diagnostic check if new battery doesnt solve the problem. Next question is, do I need to take any special precautions for replacing battery? I read elsewhere that some battery replacments can damage the electronics due to higher voltage / arcing when new battery connected. Is this an issue with a 98 slk?

Also, anyone know the spec for a 230 slk battery, without aircon or heated seats?

Any thoughts welcome.

Cheers

 

[jaymanek]

No special precaution really, if you dont want to lose radio codes etc then what i do is connect a jump pack onto the terminals while i change the battery.

you may need to turn steering lock to lock three times to reset steering angle sensor after if you do fully disconnect.

 

[Bazzle]

My slk also had rad issue (1998 slk230 oz delivery) and gearbox issues.
After rebuild my torque convertor is a lot tighter than it used to be and when real cold the drag somtimes stalls engine when cold. I let it idle for a minute if real cold, or press throttle gently as soon as drive is selected.
These cars , esp in 'W' move quite quickly with no throttle pressed.
Instrument clusters on these are known to go faulty when batt disconnected. Wire in a Matson antizap or similar permanantly across pos batt lead to earth or neg.
Batt size is an odd size. Most replacements are 10mm lower so use a 10mm hard rubber pad etc under clamp buffer.

Bazzle

 

[Shawny69]

Just as an update for everyone, had a merc test done on the car and the battery was down to 10ish volts, falling to 8 volts when engine started (from warm), so I got a new battery but, still have the same or similar problem.

I dont know how an auto box works but in simple terms, it just sounds & feels like the clutch is too far engaged, as the car will shudder and then stall when reverse is first selected and the engine is cold.

Although I have been back to the gear torque garage, they said there wasnt any fault with the gearbox, confirmed on second check as well (elsewhere)

One thought, if the gearbox oil was low, would this cause the same problem?

Any thoughts appreciated

 

[Dieselman]

It sounds like the lockup clutch is too well engaged at idle. It should be totally free in 1st and 2nd gear.

Have the autobox specialist check it and perform re-adaptation.

Have them lock it out as a test.

Either that or the engine revs are too low at idle or the available torque is to low due to a fault.

 

[Shawny69]

Just out of interest, can this be checked and adjusted without taking the box out of the car?

 

[Dieselman]

Yes.

It's modulated by an electrohydraulic valve which is controlled by the gearbox ECU.