Upex
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2012
- Messages
- 79
- Location
- Norwich, UK
- Car
- 2001 s320 cdi w220 & 1998 slk 230 komp r170
Hi all,
Following lots of useful info on here I decided to replace the front hubs on the wife's SLK as the local garage advised me at mot that both front bearings had play and were a little noise / rough. They quoted £295 per side (or at least that's the impression I had following a long list of work) for new bearings, so I explored this myself, as I could get hubs for £85 a side.
My local merc dealer only had one grease cap in, so I've only been able to change one hub so far, but wonder if this stub axle looks ok, or too worn etc?
(Can't figure out how to post pics, will try and add it in later)
Also, when measuring the end float, I'm a tad infused on the method and wonder if someone can please elaborate.
I'm fine with connecting the dial gauge, setting the needle on a smooth part of the retaining locking nut (the turn adjuster thing) but not sure how to pull/push the hub?
Do you grab at 12 and 6 o'clock positions, or 3 and 9? (Or doesn't it matter) and do you pull/push both hands outward and inwards at same time (like taking the hub off and on the axle) or do you push one hand inwards and the other hand outwards like a twist/rock on the axle?
Lastly, how much force, a gentle forearm only type amount of push/pull, full shoulders worth or do you really put your back into it?
Reason I ask is that I get different results depending on how I push/pull, especially when using the top in, bottom out type twist one, with moderate force being spot on, but when I shift a bit of weight into it, it jumps wildly to like a value 10-20 time more (if not more, there is loads of dial movement, too much to read as I'm doing it).
I think that it's mainly due to the top in bottom out type twist method, as my both in both out attempts yielded more steady results, but did still vary a bit with more force applied.
Many thanks,
Upex
Following lots of useful info on here I decided to replace the front hubs on the wife's SLK as the local garage advised me at mot that both front bearings had play and were a little noise / rough. They quoted £295 per side (or at least that's the impression I had following a long list of work) for new bearings, so I explored this myself, as I could get hubs for £85 a side.
My local merc dealer only had one grease cap in, so I've only been able to change one hub so far, but wonder if this stub axle looks ok, or too worn etc?
(Can't figure out how to post pics, will try and add it in later)
Also, when measuring the end float, I'm a tad infused on the method and wonder if someone can please elaborate.
I'm fine with connecting the dial gauge, setting the needle on a smooth part of the retaining locking nut (the turn adjuster thing) but not sure how to pull/push the hub?
Do you grab at 12 and 6 o'clock positions, or 3 and 9? (Or doesn't it matter) and do you pull/push both hands outward and inwards at same time (like taking the hub off and on the axle) or do you push one hand inwards and the other hand outwards like a twist/rock on the axle?
Lastly, how much force, a gentle forearm only type amount of push/pull, full shoulders worth or do you really put your back into it?
Reason I ask is that I get different results depending on how I push/pull, especially when using the top in, bottom out type twist one, with moderate force being spot on, but when I shift a bit of weight into it, it jumps wildly to like a value 10-20 time more (if not more, there is loads of dial movement, too much to read as I'm doing it).
I think that it's mainly due to the top in bottom out type twist method, as my both in both out attempts yielded more steady results, but did still vary a bit with more force applied.
Many thanks,
Upex
