reflexboy
MB Enthusiast
where would I find the drain tube on a W202?
renault12ts
MB Club Veteran
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- 2005 W215 CL500.
the1beard
Member
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- .w163 270cdi. .w210 e200 elegance. .w124 e220. .w124 e300d.
You certainly are trying for the 1000
I just needed to get to 30 + posts so I could send PM.
It was hard to do in just an hour witout making myself look like a twit.
Don't know if i succeded?
krimat2005
Active Member
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- May 31, 2009
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- Littlehampton, West Sussex
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- Mercedes W124 300D/ S203 220cdi
hi all, got the same problem- smelly a/c. I found on foreign forums that it will be blocked receiver drier, what do you think people? also found you should change receiver drier every 2-3 years??
the1beard
Member
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- .w163 270cdi. .w210 e200 elegance. .w124 e220. .w124 e300d.
The primary function of the receiver-drier is to separate gas and liquid. The secondary purpose is to remove moisture and filter out dirt. In the sealed refrigerant system!
It usually sits in the engine bay and has a sight glass on top which you can see the refrigerant through whilst a/c is running it will bubble through the sight glass and can indicate if there is sufficient gas in the system.
It will NOT cause a smell inside the cabin!
Only refrigerant gas passes through it.
It can easily last the lifetime of the car / a/c system and does not require replacement unless there has been a system problem where the a/c has been open to the elements or following an accident where the a/c system has been damaged.
The cause of the cabin smell will be.
Blocked weep hole for the condensed air / moisture on the evaporator under the dash so causing the moisture to sit in the heater system casing.
Or dirt on the evaporator, which has caused bacteria to form on the evaporator.
In both cases a sanitizer would be required and washing through the evaporator enclosure and making sure the weep hole and inside area are clean.
This may have been caused by a blocked fan filter though many mercs don’t have a filter.
I’ve had the problem on a couple of w124’s it a tough once to sort as once the bacteria builds up on the evaporator and inside the enclosure it’s tough to kill off but persist and make sure the weep hole is clear and it will after a few treatments die.
Another possible reason for the build up of bacteria and the smell may be due to the A/C not working to cool down to the correct Evaporator temp then it will not be cold enough to kill the bacteria so starting the problem by constantly covering the evaporator in moisture rather than running dry.
So first get the A/C checked for correct operation.
It usually sits in the engine bay and has a sight glass on top which you can see the refrigerant through whilst a/c is running it will bubble through the sight glass and can indicate if there is sufficient gas in the system.
It will NOT cause a smell inside the cabin!
Only refrigerant gas passes through it.
It can easily last the lifetime of the car / a/c system and does not require replacement unless there has been a system problem where the a/c has been open to the elements or following an accident where the a/c system has been damaged.
The cause of the cabin smell will be.
Blocked weep hole for the condensed air / moisture on the evaporator under the dash so causing the moisture to sit in the heater system casing.
Or dirt on the evaporator, which has caused bacteria to form on the evaporator.
In both cases a sanitizer would be required and washing through the evaporator enclosure and making sure the weep hole and inside area are clean.
This may have been caused by a blocked fan filter though many mercs don’t have a filter.
I’ve had the problem on a couple of w124’s it a tough once to sort as once the bacteria builds up on the evaporator and inside the enclosure it’s tough to kill off but persist and make sure the weep hole is clear and it will after a few treatments die.
Another possible reason for the build up of bacteria and the smell may be due to the A/C not working to cool down to the correct Evaporator temp then it will not be cold enough to kill the bacteria so starting the problem by constantly covering the evaporator in moisture rather than running dry.
So first get the A/C checked for correct operation.
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ok- im getting the occasional whiff from the aircon when i first turn it on on a hot day. I dont see any water underneath the car after the aircon has been on so im guessing that the drain is blocked.
Where would i find the drain on my W202 C230k ? A quick blast of steam would clear it out i take it?
ta
Andy Mac
Where would i find the drain on my W202 C230k ? A quick blast of steam would clear it out i take it?
ta
Andy Mac
the1beard
Member
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- Jan 26, 2005
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- 45
- Location
- London
- Car
- .w163 270cdi. .w210 e200 elegance. .w124 e220. .w124 e300d.
I don't think steam is a good idea just flush with water and use a fungal spray
Best to talk to car A/C specialist or go and talk to MB main dealer.
The sooner you sort the problem the better imho.
Best to talk to car A/C specialist or go and talk to MB main dealer.
The sooner you sort the problem the better imho.
Most of the Mercs have two drains for the heater box, one each side of the tunnel in line with the base of the heater. Look for black rubber lips!
I have found that if one is blocked then the sanitiser sprays will work for a few days but the "pond" will soon go stagnant again.
(strange how the quick whiff on startup smells of cat p//s isn't it?)
Raise (safely!) one side at a time and use a plant sprayer or similar to back-flush one drain and let the debris run out of the other.
Then repeat the other side....
If both are blocked, don't send too much water up or the overflow might get into the footwell where, often, priceless electronics live under the underlay....
Now I know where the drains are, I can reach with the car on the ground - using the long lance on a Killaspray.
I get the same locking problem on the W124 and the W211 (separated in design by 10 years) - and the drains look the same!
I have found that if one is blocked then the sanitiser sprays will work for a few days but the "pond" will soon go stagnant again.
(strange how the quick whiff on startup smells of cat p//s isn't it?)
Raise (safely!) one side at a time and use a plant sprayer or similar to back-flush one drain and let the debris run out of the other.
Then repeat the other side....
If both are blocked, don't send too much water up or the overflow might get into the footwell where, often, priceless electronics live under the underlay....
Now I know where the drains are, I can reach with the car on the ground - using the long lance on a Killaspray.
I get the same locking problem on the W124 and the W211 (separated in design by 10 years) - and the drains look the same!
+1. £4.99 a tin
aircondoc
Active Member
I've used febreze squirted down the vent inlet before, it's anti bacterial and works well on smells. Just run the fan fast to suck it in. Cheap 'n' cheerful. I've steam cleaned evaps before but you have to get at the b*gger first! Poke a ty-rap up the evap drain to clear it - it's softer than the evap so can't break it.
