Sponge and chamois-Ditched!

[reflexboy]

I want to ditch my traditional sponge and chamois for fear of scratches and swirls. There are so many drying towels and wash mitts out there, what the heck should I go for: Lambswool, sheepskin or microfibre mitt??
And then there are the drying towels. Seems the detailers like the waffle type. Poorboys, Megs water magnet and Sonus seem to get good reports. Any suggestions guys from experience. Thank you.

 

[Chrishazle]

Merino wash mitt for "above the waist line", but microfibre for below and for wheels. Simple reason - the microfibre mitt will get really mucky but can go in washing machine, merino can't!

 

[fatdazza]

In all the write ups I read everyone slates the megs water magnet. Not tried it myself so cannot comment, apart from "all those people can't be wrong"

I have a waffle weave and soft microfibre brying towels and prefer the soft towels for drying and only use the waffle weave for sills.

I have these sheepskin washmitts and for the money they are fantastic. (my Megs sheepskin did not last well)

www.sheepskinshop.co.uk - the sheepskin experts

Good luck and well done for ditching the sponge and shammy

 

[WDB124066]

What is the matter with using your hand to wash the car under running water?

People dribble on about using two buckets, goodness knows why in summer!!

Agree re trashing the Shammy, maybe a more expensive one would be better but the one I had was a shocker, and yes I kept it clean.

 

[fatdazza]

Your hand has no ability to trap dirt and small particles of abrasive grit. It will simply rub them into your paint and scratch it (even under running water). As for a chamois, well even the best is not a patch on a half decent MF towel.

 

[WDB124066]

I see. What brand type of MF towel would you recommend?

 

[MicB]

I have a collection of drying towels but by far and away the best is Chemical guys' Fatty Orange Super Dryer....
No doubt a similar quality towel is available elsewhere.

Fanatics blow dry.

Mic

 

[WDB124066]

Thank you kindly Mic, I'll see if I can find one down here.......??

 

[renault12ts]

Thank you kindly Mic, I'll see if I can find one down here.......??

...but your point about running water is valid, (isn't it?).

 

[WDB124066]

I'd have thought so, short of doing tests who really knows??

 

[MicB]

...but your point about running water is valid, (isn't it?).

I think the validity is in the principle of maximising lubrication in removing abrasive dirt to minimise scratches......the more water the better.

Mic

 

[WDB124066]

That's what I thought, I have a multi head on the hose, it's a matter of picking the right option and flooding water down the little hole where your hand joins the wrist. Good thing is you can feel pretty quickly most grit or at least you think you can, and of course the bits that get stuck on the paint, that's where a nicely damp fingernail works it's wonders too.

The only problem is if you get too much water down there you don't actually clean the paint - you get a kind of aquaplaning! Oh, and the other problem is super cold in winter, you need a hot water bottle standing by......

 

[fatdazza]

I think the validity is in the principle of maximising lubrication in removing abrasive dirt to minimise scratches......the more water the better.

Mic

Running water is good but it has limited effect on loosening grease (from road film). That's why a good shampoo and quality washmitt is needed. Shampoo to loosen the greasy dirt and washmitt to trap any dust and grit in its fibres. Then once you have washed a panel rinse the wahsmitt in a rinse bucket to remove the dirt and grit. This ensures you do not rub the dirt and grit into your next panel and that when you reload your washmitt with the shampoo bucket it is full of clean soapy water. The two bucket method is a proven successful method of cleaning cars. When you use this method when you finish washing you will be left with a rinse bucket of dirty water and a shampoo bucket of still clean shampoo.

There may be a lot of twaddle from "detailing" but the two bucket method is not one of them.

 

[fatdazza]

I see. What brand type of MF towel would you recommend?

A multitude of towels exist. I have found polishedbliss.co.uk a very useful source of quality supplies, excellent advice, reasonable prices and "free" postage.

 

[WDB124066]

OK I'll take a look, be nice if they posted to NZL free.

Do you think the Gtechniq C1 will make a difference??

 

[Andrew1068]

Well I have to agree with reflexboy the "merino wash mit " is the best, just rinse it a lot ( more than you actually think ) its very soft and made from top quality wool!
you need to use a good shampoo too ( nothing cheap from tesco or halfords ) be prepared to pay a bit though! The mit will cost about 8-10 pounds and a good shampoo like maguires Deep Crystal Car wash costs about 10 pounds.
I always like to take my time and I try not to wash in direct sunlight, its hard work though but the results are when done properly well worth it!!! Have fun!

 

[fatdazza]

OK I'll take a look, be nice if they posted to NZL free.

Do you think the Gtechniq C1 will make a difference??

Ahhhh, didn't realise you were a few miles away!

C1 is certainly a good finish. Like all finishes though it is only as good as the prep work. C1 can still be scratched by poor wash technique though.

 

[WDB124066]

I just tip Mothers Car Wash on the bonnet and dip my hand in it a few times throughout the wash.

I see I'm going to have to have a read up on these new fancy techniques you boys are using, see how they compare......

 

[reflexboy]

I have a collection of drying towels but by far and away the best is Chemical guys' Fatty Orange Super Dryer....
No doubt a similar quality towel is available elsewhere.

Fanatics blow dry.

Mic

Thanks Mic. Lambswool mitt and Fatty Orangey towel thingy ordered from Chemical Guys. Just need it to stop raining now

 

[EVL]

Prepping and washing the car properly is much more important than what you dry it with. If the car isn't washed properly, remaining dirt will more than likely inflict swirls/scratched, regardless of what you dry the car with.
When washing I:
1) Soak the car with an all purpose cleaner (some of the pick ups we do need something a bit stronger so I'll use TFR as protection will be reapplied at the end anyway). Let it soak for a few minutes
2) Rinse with jet wash - at an angle rather than straight at the car, starting at the bottom and working my way to the top prevents the APC at the bottom to dilute
3) Apply snowfoam (not really needed after the APC, but I like it!)
4) Allow to soak for a few minutes
5) While snow foam is dwelling, I'll go round the car with a sof brush and clean badges, door shuts Etc
6) Rinse
7) wash using 2 buckets - one with shampoo and one to rinse the mitts regularly during the wash
8) Rinse
9) Spray Autoglym's Autogloss Rinse
10) Rinse with hosepipe - the autogloss really helps to sheet water off so there's less on the car to dry
11) Dry - with the dreaded chamois!!! I just couldn't get on with towels and I have tried quite a few
12) Use compressed air to blow out any water in any hidden areas
13) Apply protection - what I use depends on how long it's been since the cars had a full detail. Can be anything from a quick detailer through to a sealant or a wax.

It might be overkill to some people, but I worked hard (still do!!!) to get my toys so I have to look after them.
Plus as we offer full details/Valets at work, I think it's important for my own cars to look good.