Started the oil cooler seals om642

IFFY100

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So finally managed to start the process and glad to say everything OK so far. However I do have a couple of questions which would help me along.

1. It appears that mb use copper grease on bolts around about the turbo (where it connects to the exhaust system) am I right or was is just seeing corrosion rub off? Please find a picture showing bolts I mean.

2. I usually do not reuse gaskets but mb are saying that they cannot get a hold of the gaskets that go in between the turbo and exhaust. Is there a solution here or should I reuse? Don't really want to reuse.

Please advise if there is anything else I should think about while here. Thanks.
 
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IFFY100

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Images of the bolts
 

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Jobsworth

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It isn’t copper grease. The bolts are copper coated and single use. You can re-use them, but be aware, the next time you want to remove them you will struggle. The copper coating prevents them seizing.
Don’t reuse any of the gaskets either, unless you absolutely have no choice.
 

RogerSausage

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Might be able worth trying another dealer for the gaskets, I find it hard to believe they're unavailable, the engine isn't that old really and removing the turbo is still a common job. When I used to do the job both at a dealer and in an independent place, I'd always replace the gaskets. The bolts can be reused at a stretch, but as mentioned above, they might be a pig to get out again in future.
 
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IFFY100

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Thanks for the replies and sorry for not being clearer. But you guys have answered my question anyway. I will be buying new bolts anyway but what I meant was that should I copper coat them, but that questions been answered so thanks. Another thing - I can't be assed cleaning the manifolds so was going to hand in to a machine shop to have them cleaned. Not sure if they sonic clean or not, but was told that the system will run at 80c. Is that OK?
 

RogerSausage

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Should be ok in theory, I'd be a little concerned about the plastic components like the swirl flaps, but the engine runs above 80 degrees anyway.
 

mioba

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TBF, doing the job properly requires a-lot of gaskets, not replacing the gaskets is pure injustice to your job
 

unclebuck

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shame you were not closer, i would have ahd it apart in no time and the manifolds cleaned spotlessly for you. while they are off get the upgraded aluminium link arms, replace all gaskets and seals and bolts that come off.

as stated turbo bolts to cast exhaust pipes are copper coated, the turbo oil turret can be re-used but every tech i spoke to from merc and idy's said just replace them they are cheap enough so i did.

Also replaced the swirl motor and clips and many other items.

As for the manifolds they are easy to clean, get some mr muscle oven cleaner and douse the insides with it, let it sit then clean it out with picks and brushes, rinse out and repeat as neccesary. I also used auto glym engine degreaser as well as that helped shift things.

Hooked my pressure washer upto the hot water and blasted them out with hot water, mine came out great.

go through my thread and see whats what, others have done the same, mine has lots of photos, have aread ask questions if need be.
 
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IFFY100

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TBF, doing the job properly requires a-lot of gaskets, not replacing the gaskets is pure injustice to your job
True. But merc have no clue when the part will arrive. I'm reluctant to reuse.
 
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IFFY100

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shame you were not closer, i would have ahd it apart in no time and the manifolds cleaned spotlessly for you. while they are off get the upgraded aluminium link arms, replace all gaskets and seals and bolts that come off.

as stated turbo bolts to cast exhaust pipes are copper coated, the turbo oil turret can be re-used but every tech i spoke to from merc and idy's said just replace them they are cheap enough so i did.

Also replaced the swirl motor and clips and many other items.

As for the manifolds they are easy to clean, get some mr muscle oven cleaner and douse the insides with it, let it sit then clean it out with picks and brushes, rinse out and repeat as neccesary. I also used auto glym engine degreaser as well as that helped shift things.

Hooked my pressure washer upto the hot water and blasted them out with hot water, mine came out great.

go through my thread and see whats what, others have done the same, mine has lots of photos, have aread ask questions if need be.
Thank you for the advise. Can you tell me a little more about the aluminium arms you mention?
 

phobos

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I was about to start the same thread, as I am doing the same on my own W221 2010. MB of Farnborough ( super helpful Tim Morgan as per usual) managed to get all the seals, except one, right hand side turbo gasket, but I have found one on a company in Kent ( the do comercial vehicle parts, but the part is the same)

The company is Sparshatt - Sittingbourne depot
Sparshatt Truck & Van

Af of today at 11:00, the still had 2 of these and they were the only company that I could find that had them ( having called everyone around Berkshire / Hampshire and MB Edinburgh)
 
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IFFY100

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Phobos - thanks for advice. Managed to pick up one very expensive gasket.
 
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IFFY100

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I've not had much of a chance to crack on today, but would I be right in thinking that the fuel pipes must be disconnected from both rail and injector side to remove the fuel rail?
 
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IFFY100

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Hate touching injectors for fear of them loosing calibration. While on the subject, how much does an injector on this thing cost and do they coded and replaced all at the same time??
 

Jobsworth

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You don’t need to remove the injectors to do the job. Just removing the pipes will be fine. Cover the open end of the injector to prevent any dirt entering. New ones are a little over £200 each for service exchange mercedes units. They do need some coding to calibrate. You can replace them individually, that’s no problem.
 

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