Starts then stalls

[j34n]

new to this forum so hello everyone and hope you're all having a good day, and i also live in the US so any cars i mention are US spec

picked up 2 e320's this weekend, one with a fuel pump issue which i'm in the process of handling, and another with a weird problem. i am more familiar with bmw's than mercs so bear with me.

it's a 94 so it's got the m104. the problem i'm having is she starts up, then dies literally a few seconds later. sounds good when it's on, but don't know why it just turns off? thanks an advance, and any info would be greatly appreciated.

since i have 2 of the same car , i plan to interchange any suspicious parts between the 2 hopefully helping me solve or pinpoint any other issues at hand; granted that the other part isn't faulty either

 

[M104 MB]

Try to swap the klima relay which also control fuel pumps you find it near the battery a large black one.

 

[Dieselman]

iirc, The fuel pump relay is fed from two sources, one for when cranking, one for running.

It sounds like the ignition only feed has gone.

 

[j34n]

iirc, The fuel pump relay is fed from two sources, one for when cranking, one for running.

It sounds like the ignition only feed has gone.

any info where i can find both of these feeds? so far I've ordered a OVP because both of the cars had faulty ones.

 

[j34n]

Try to swap the klima relay which also control fuel pumps you find it near the battery a large black one.

i took one from the other car and still the same issue?

 

[j34n]

bump! for the newbie

 

[Peter T]

May be completely irrelevant but, when I had this problem on my e39 540i it was the cam position sensor.

Good luck,

 

[RBYCC]

What you indicate is typical of not having the speed signal (td-green/black? wire) input to the MAS / FPR, OVP relay.

The signal indicates that the engine is running and allows the fuel pump(s) to continuing operating.
Without the signal the fuel pumps drop out in about ten seconds.

Start with the relays as they are the weakest link in the chain, check the wiring and finally the crank position sensor where the signal originates.

 

[j34n]

What you indicate is typical of not having the speed signal (td-green/black? wire) input to the MAS / FPR, OVP relay.

The signal indicates that the engine is running and allows the fuel pump(s) to continuing operating.
Without the signal the fuel pumps drop out in about ten seconds.

Start with the relays as they are the weakest link in the chain, check the wiring and finally the crank position sensor where the signal originates.

i'm going to check all that tomorrow and buy a new crank position sensor tonight. i built a LED code reader which kind of took me a bit of time because it was my first time soldering wire connections. i used the box if a cheap glasses repair kit and it works quite well from when i tested it on a 12c source. ill upload pic when i can of on and off. thanks for the input, i was supecting that as well. new ovp on the way and i fixed all cold connections on a relay so it'll be ready for a test again maybe tomorrow or when the new cpsc comes

 

[j34n]

sorry for all the typos and using C instead of V when talking about the power source. I'm on my iPhone and typing fast so i don't really do a double take to see where i went wrong. i will post results later today of my tests.

 

[WG M-B]

If the car has been jump started it may have blown the maf!

 

[j34n]

If the car has been jump started it may have blown the maf!

never knew that. would that really cause the start then stall issue?

 

[j34n]

thank you everyone for the input. very appreciated and i got some good news i pulled some codes:

pin 6 - 4, 5, 6, 8
pin 8 - 4, 11, 24
pin 14 - 2, 5, 11

&

i got the car started, running and i even drove it a little without it dying on me at all. as of now it starts right up but the idle is a little shaky but i believe that is the blame of the loud & leaky fuel pumps.

tomorrow i'm gonna start it up again and this time let it warm up to see if it has any warm start problems or anything else for that matter.

one weird thing that happenes is that the wipers operate even if i haven't switched them on when i was cranking it and fuse #7 went out after the short drive. i replaced it and it fired right up again.
also the parking & cluster lights don't work anymore but both the headlights still do?

any ideas as to why that might happen? thanks again in advance!

 

[M104 MB]

thank you everyone for the input. very appreciated and i got some good news i pulled some codes:

pin 6 - 4, 5, 6, 8
pin 8 - 4, 11, 24
pin 14 - 2, 5, 11

&

i got the car started, running and i even drove it a little without it dying on me at all. as of now it starts right up but the idle is a little shaky but i believe that is the blame of the loud & leaky fuel pumps.

tomorrow i'm gonna start it up again and this time let it warm up to see if it has any warm start problems or anything else for that matter.

one weird thing that happenes is that the wipers operate even if i haven't switched them on when i was cranking it and fuse #7 went out after the short drive. i replaced it and it fired right up again.
also the parking & cluster lights don't work anymore but both the headlights still do?

any ideas as to why that might happen? thanks again in advance!

You have most likely a short to ground (chassi is in connection with +wire) in that fuse circuit.

 

[j34n]

UPDATE: rewired the eta and although i'm a noob, i will leave my 2 cents to anyone looking to do this

i would recommend going with a dremel type tool for best results. if done correctly you can even remove the pin holder and solder the new wires directly to the pins instead of soldering new wires to the old ones attached to the pins. i will also post a picture of the map of the circuit board in the actuator so if anyone is confused or mixes up a wire or 3 like i did, you can easily get around it. also using a dremel will cut the time to take the connector apart in half, literally.

another tip is to use 18, 20, & 22 gauge wire. if i remember well there are: 2x 18g, 3x 20g, & 4x 22g wire. and length would be to play it safe a 18in each wire. the wire inlet on the actuator really doesn't stretch so using one gauge of wire unless it's 22 just won't happen.

after installing the rewired eta, my car idled at 1500 and when i went on the gas it would sputter and almost die, so i knew the eta had to have been the problem since prior to, i was able to drive it, rev it, and the only issue was the shaky idle.

what happened was that got wires 8, 6 & 14 mixed with each other (long story) but it is sorted now, i even got the DTC 6(idle control inoperative) on pin 3 using the cars check light. tomorrow i will reinstall it and see how it goes & keep you guys posted. thanks everyone for the advice. it has really helped! good day and god bless, jean.