Stone Chip Repair

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Leabrooks

Active Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2014
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233
Car
CLK 270 CDI
Nice day today and a day off (suffering a hangover from my mate coming around last night) so I thought I'd start tackling the stone chips ,washed the car with normal car shampoo (Simoniz wax free shampoo), washed the affected areas (bonnet, front bumper, leading roof area, and lower doors areas) with Fairy washing up liquid to degrease and dewax, rinsed and a final wipe down over the chips with isopropyl to clean any stubborn stuff out of the chips.

Next job, using a fine artists brush (very fine and pointed) I filled over a 100 (yes honest, after being machine gunned by road gritters twice a few months back whilst working the late shift) of the little blighters in with genuine MB touch up paint (using my fine artists brush and not the supplied brush in the bottle).

Next job, wait 24 hours and cut back, then machine polish...looks better already!

Tip: if using touch up paint or cans, immerse in hot water for a good half hour or so before using, shake like mad and often! And, if using touch up bottles (as I was), take the paint off the original supplied brush half way up the supplied brush stick.. as thats the best place for matching the metallic paint as the supplied brush tip will be loaded with runnier thinners and have very few metallic particles in it and look much darker!

I'll try and post some pics if I remember tomorrow when I've cut and polished the repairs back ( after leaving 24 hours for curing).
 
I wish I had the confidence to tackle the stone chips on my bonnet and bumper. There are only about ten in total and I'm sure that they are more noticeable to me as they jump out every time I wash the car. But to be rid of the ones on the bonnet in particular would be great. Only trouble is, I have a fear that it may look worse afterwards. Perhaps after seeing some pictures of your repair, I might change my mind. Now, where did I put that 6" emulsion brush.
 
Minz said:
I wish I had the confidence to tackle the stone chips on my bonnet and bumper. There are only about ten in total and I'm sure that they are more noticeable to me as they jump out every time I wash the car. But to be rid of the ones on the bonnet in particular would be great. Only trouble is, I have a fear that it may look worse afterwards. Perhaps after seeing some pictures of your repair, I might change my mind. Now, where did I put that 6" emulsion brush.

On my 911 I tried drcolorchip and it does some magic.Not the cheapest but is does work and the chips become a lot less visible....

Theo
 
Another four hours today flatting with 2000 grit and AG Paint Renovator to polish the 2000 grit scratches out (by hand), wish I'd done it panel by panel! Some of the stone chips need a second coat (lacquer this time to fill the pits) but looking good! A word of warning, flatting metallic paint will darken the repair, so fill any deep pits (after the initial touch up) with clear lacquer and not the paint to maintain paint match. Pinhole sized pits are fine with just touch up paint and no lacquer. The good news is Mercedes clearcoat lacquer is rock hard (no wonder it chips!) so 2000 grit will not cut through the original surrounding clearcoat (unless your an idiot) around the repair area but will take the top off of your repairs without damaging the surrounding area and leave it all nice and flat.
 
Topped the chip repairs up, cut back (again) with 2000 wet and dry, hand buffed the affected areas (again) and ready for a final machine polish tomorrow (weather permitting)Time so far 12 hours work....
 
Not happy with using SRP with a rotary polisher (too much filler and not enough cut, so you have no chance by hand), needs a more aggressive compound on the nano lacquer but by trial and error I'll report back when I find the best combo of affordable compound and final polish.
 
Every compound is affordable.For reference if anyone wants a compound that cuts 3000/2500 then go for Menzerna fk400, scholl concepts S3 gold & Megs 105. Even rupes diamond gel compounds are great as well as car pro fixer.
 
I'm probably going to go for the Megs 105 followed by 205 route on hexi pads, does that sound reasonable, I'm a newb to machine polishing so any input welcome.
 
Hi, on mb ceramic lacquer the best compound is menzerna 400 on LC orange or the slightly heavier cut yellow pad if your using a rotary. Lots of working time and you will even be able to finish down without holograms from compounding. Greats compound that can be a one stage product if your handy with a rotary. Hope that helps

Cheers
Mike

P.s. 105 is great but on mb lacquer dusts quite a bit. Everyone likes to have clean lungs:)
 
Went for the Menzerna polish(s) but not the 400 or 500 (not that confident yet) and Menzerna pads and yes thanks its brill, I'm at about 98% scratch and swirl free (and no holograms, tails etc) so far, and cannot believe a) how tough the MB lacquer (Nano/Ceramicoat) is and b) the shine/reflections/gloss and thats before I've even used the final SF4000! I should of got a wool pad for the first cut, but hey I'm learning, and fast....and love it, its addictive!! Thanks chaps!
 
Heres a few shots of some the stone chips after filling with touch up paint and then rubbed down with 2000 grit wet and dry and cleaned with IPA solution. As can be seen theres lots of them!
 

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And here a shot of the finished bonnet after machine polishing with the rotary and the Menzerna compounds.
 

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I forgot to add the 'before' pic!

So here it is, every white speck is a stone chip that needed a dab of paint!
 

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And after repair and rotary polish...much, much better!!
 

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If anyones wondering, Jasper Blue changes colour depending on the light conditions, one minute its deep royal blue, the next minute a mid metallic blue, and it looks almost black at night.....oh and women really love the colour! :)
 
Well thats it for the stone chip repairs, hope it inspires anyone suffering from the dreaded road rash/white acne that home repairs can be done (even on metallic paint). :thumb:
 

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