Super charger not working? CLK 230 2001

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jonb286

New Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2015
Messages
26
Location
lincoln
Car
mercedes clk convertible 230
Hi New on here. We have a convertible CLK 230 2001 and we think the super charger is not working. When you pull away it is quite jerky and sluggish (sometimes!) We have had it plugged in with a merc specialist as the orange engine management light was on, and he said we needed a recirculating air flap, and pressure sensor which have now both been replaced. We have also replaced the plugs and 4 coil pack and air filter. This has not solved the problem and the light is still on. The super charger does not seem to kick in at any revs.
Any ideas would be greatly received!
Thanks Jon :dk:

Part numbers replaced A1110980109, (airflap) A0041533328 (pressure sensor).
 
Search the net for faulty K40 relay and also search blown ECU mosfet. Both of these are known issues causing the the S/C not to engage.
 
had it plugged in again.

hi. just had my clk 230 plugged in again and the stored fault is the 02 sensor...:bannana:
 
Great news if that solves the issue. Let's know how you get on.
 
In your experience, do you think this could solve the problem JJJ?
Thanks Jon
 
This gives a general overview of how the clutch is controlled.
 
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Hi New on here. We have a convertible CLK 230 2001 and we think the super charger is not working. When you pull away it is quite jerky and sluggish (sometimes!) We have had it plugged in with a merc specialist as the orange engine management light was on, and he said we needed a recirculating air flap, and pressure sensor which have now both been replaced. We have also replaced the plugs and 4 coil pack and air filter. This has not solved the problem and the light is still on. The super charger does not seem to kick in at any revs.
Any ideas would be greatly received!
Thanks Jon :dk:

Part numbers replaced A1110980109, (airflap) A0041533328 (pressure sensor).

When my new maf got contaminated with oil after a year or so it did stop s/c working! Cleaned it and been good for ages.
 
Yep as per streethawk, I had & have an issue with the S/C cutting out due to the MAF so it's possible that's the issue and I think (far from certain) that a faulty MAF could throw a code for o2 sensor. The reason I didn't originally suggest the MAF to you was that I presumed that your Merc specialist would have copped it.
 
If the engine management warning light is on then presumably it has gone into limp mode, hence the lack of performance. If the error codes is for faulty o2 sensor then that would be a good place to start.

I thought they had done away with clutch driven superchargers by 2001 and switched over to a permanently engaged arrangement on the smaller higher speed M45 unit. Easy to check, the S/C pulley is much smaller at about 70mm diameter.
 
I've been told there is no clutch . It's always running..
 
Ah, o.k.. It's an Eaton M45 (non clutch) rather than an Eaton M62.

What was a bit misleading, you said the S/c doesn't ''kick in'' which would usually refer to the operation of an M62 thus the confusion. Dismiss the info I supplied, sorry about that.
 
hi jjj. when driving there is a whooooosssss when its under load. very flat when driving it. its going in friday to have the o2 sensor done. he says there is 2 ??? so are the s/c good for 150k . hoping its not that that needs replacing. only other one to change is the maf . ive had the pipe off to the right of the engine (as you look at the car ns) one pipe i covered and the car cut out. (sucks well) the one below didnt seem to blow that much???

jon
 
Yes, there are two o2 sensors on your car. I can't comment specifically on your Eaton 45 but generally speaking there little to go wrong with the S/Charger itself, all usually wears at very high mileage is the bearings and when that happens I'd imagine you'd hear it. Having a bet, I don't think it is the S/c that's at fault. If it sucks, it has to blow? Ha, ha. ;)
 
Whooshing is perfectly normal and definitely a sign that the S/C is working properly. When the superchargers wear you get a lot of rumbling noise from the bearings, enough to drown out the whoosh at revs. Don't be too concerned about a little rumbling at idle, that is quite normal and is usually indicative of wear on the internal coupler, specially if it seems to disappear by about 1500rpm. Rumblings from the associated idler wheels and pulleys however should be dealt with, replacement is cheap and easy.

O2 sensors, yes you should have two, one usually located at the top of the downpipe just below the joint to the manifold, the second is down under just after the cataclysmic converter. Separate fault codes for each so you can identify which is suspect and different codes for whether the sensor is actually faulty or just reading out of limits. O2 out of limits would indicate a problem elsewhere, typically with the MAF as stated by others above.

As a side note, also be aware that ageing O2 sensors sometimes don't register properly allowing the engine to run rich whilst at the same time not returning any fault codes. Replacement has been known to result in an improvement to fuel consumption.
 
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Thank you slknick and jjj. I will update Friday night. Fingers crossed it's the O2 . Starting to spend enough on this car.
Thanks for now
 
Think i'd recomend finding another garage going by the way your current garage has mis-diagnosed the fault on your car and wasted your money !
 
Think i'd recomend finding another garage going by the way your current garage has mis-diagnosed the fault on your car and wasted your money !

These cars are known for throwing wrong fault codes so it may not be the garages fault. The SC can drop out for a variety of reasons, when the ECU detects an incorrect parameter it immediately drops the SC to protect the engine.

When I had my SC problem it was throwing the codes for the bypass flap, changed this and still no difference in the end it was the cam magnet on the front of the engine which showed no fault at all on the diagnostics.

There's only one way with these cars and trust me I have been there plenty of times over the last 8 years. Static diagnostics even with Star on this car are useless at finding intermittent faults, the only way is to run live diagnostics whilst you are driving and the mechanic is sat in the passenger seat with the car hooked up.
 
O2 sensor replaced no fix.

Codes
B28 pressure switch . B14 pressure switch .o2sensor G3 Air flap m16/7
Could there be a wiring fault as codes throwing up different fault stored.
Feeds are z7/36 and z7/36.1 .
Any help. There is oil in the cam sensor plug too . Told could poss cause loads of faults. Ideas...
 
Do a search on 'oil wicking'. It's a known issue - oil leaking from the Cam Magnet and wicking up the loom to the ECU. Disconnect the battery and open a small section of the loom, also disconnect the ECU and again inspect for oil at the pins. Really, my advice is to get the car inspected by reputable M-B specialist.
 

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