suspension ball joint 190 2.5 16v

[garyoxenham]

Just looking for a bit advice, the suspension ball joint on my 190 decided to snap at the pin resulting in the arm being fired down by the coil spring and through the inside of the alloy wheel. Just pulling out of a parking bay so no other damage. I have replaced the ball joint and bush assembly and realigned the steering, took approx 2 hours with the help of the burning gear to go through the bush. The advice I am looking for will the drivers side also need replacing, every time I get in the car I think that side will go bang aswell.

Cheers.

Gary Ox.

 

[BlackC55]

Check it for excess play.

 

[Ian B Walker]

This is debatable. On my own car I would change both sides. The idea behind this is that if they are both of the same age there is a possibility that the other side "may" go. On a customer car I will always inform them of my thoughts and leave the decision to them. Your call.

 

[Will]

I'd do both sides. The joint is only cheap (about £13.00), and worth doing for the reasons above - always try and do brakes and suspension in pairs IMHO.

Just had both replaced on my 2.5-16, the steering is noticably smoother and lighter as a result (as well as quieter from the creaking side - fortunately it didn't snap on me, caught it early )

Will

 

[garyoxenham]

The part I replaced was the main suspension joint with the two bushes and the ball joint, still only £90 from Euro Car Parts, think I wll replace other side just for peace of mind. Not Too bad of a DIY job either.
Thanks all for the advice.

Gary Ox.

 

[Will]

The part I replaced was the main suspension joint with the two bushes and the ball joint, still only £90 from Euro Car Parts, think I wll replace other side just for peace of mind. Not Too bad of a DIY job either.
Thanks all for the advice.

Gary Ox.

For the benefit of others - I think you're saying you replaced the whole lower wishbone ('control arm').

These come with the ball joints and bushes pre-fitted (saves having to use a hydraulic press to fit the new joints/bushes)

Gary - few quick questions:

1) The 2.3/2.5-16 (and possibly sportline models) have different wishbones supplied by MB to the normal models. Might just be the bushings (thicker? harder?). Do you know if ECP list different part numbers for the wishbone for normal 190s and the 16v models - I don't think GSF etc do.

2) Have you done anything about the wheel alignment once the wishbone was fitted? Did you mark the bolts etc? Does it seem much out - apparantly the bolts are eccentric and you need to get this done once they are removed/refitted. Obviously worth waiting until you've done the other side if that's the case

Lastly - did you manage to remove/refit the spring ok without compressors? Or did you support the lower arm with a trolley jack etc before removal?

Will

 

[garyoxenham]

Will.
I had to give my car reg number to ECP so they could supply the correct part, they did say the normal 190 was differant. I did notice the washers on the bushes were a "cam" type when I took them out but didn't take much notice, the penny didn't drop till I when for a quick test drive and the car only wanted to go left. So back under the car to adjust them and line the wheels up by eye. A mate set them up later with a laser. I didn't have any problems with the coil spring, I did use a trolley jack to take the load. At the minute the steering wheel is sitting very slightly to the left, approx 7mm but that can wait till I change the other side and set it all up.
Cheers.
Gary Ox.

 

[Will]

Thanks for that info Gary - sounds like you're on the ball

Well worth doing both sides, especially since you've fitted a new arm/bushes etc complete

I was strongly considering buying a Klann press to fit the joints on my 2.5-16, but in the end found a good local MB experienced garage who had the correct tool and pressed them in for me for a price I couldn't argue with.

I would have considered fitting new wishbones but MB ones are a fortune (~ £500 or so for both sides, vs. £13.00 x 2 for new MB ball joints), and there really wasn't anything wrong with my existing control arms or bushes at all.

If the ECP items are of good quality you've done quite well as you'd probably pay more than the cost of the whole wishbones to have someone remove and replace the ball joint into your existing arms.

BTW, how is the rest of your car these days? Haven't seen any pics/info for ages. Would be good to catch up at a meet sometime

Will

 

[garyoxenham]

Will
sorry I didn't get to reply sooner I am now back on the oil rig. How do I go about adding pics, I have some jpeg on a disk I took for my insurance. Car still starts first click of the key after 2 or 3 weeks standing, straight through mot's and no other problems touch wood.

Gary Ox.

 

[Will]

Hi Gary,

You can add photos as an 'attachment' when you're making a post, or you can load them onto an online photo hosting site such as photobucket.

Will

 

[stats007]

W201 MB control arms are £190 each (standard) - factor £64 - £90 for Lemforger. eBay Germany have reconditioned ones for £50 each + shipping. I'm having factor control arms fitted next week at PCS as the bushes aren't great and the labour is less that fitting the £13.77 balljoints.

 

[Will]

W201 MB control arms are £190 each (standard) - factor £64 - £90 for Lemforger. eBay Germany have reconditioned ones for £50 each + shipping. I'm having factor control arms fitted next week at PCS as the bushes aren't great and the labour is less that fitting the £13.77 balljoints.

If you just needed the ball joints doing, it's a lot, lot easier with the correct tool:

http://www.klann-online.de/englisch/Filme_E/KL-0326-10_E.htm

I was considering buying one a couple of months back - I had three MBs at the time and figured that it'd pay for itself at some point, plus could benefit other members.

In the end I stumbled accross a local place that had the tool (!) and saved me the hassle. Price for fitting was so cheap that I really couldn't argue at all. Less than the cost of one pattern part wishbone!

Don't forget to factor in for wheel alignment once the new wishbones are fitted.

Will

 

[stats007]

Labour for a wishbone is still less than a balljoint - and bushes can't be done without a tool no-one seems to have and mine are on their way out.

Alignment doesn't need doing according to WIS?

 

[Will]

The bolts for the wishbones are offset/eccentric IIRC. You might be able to mark them or something but I'm 90% sure you'll need a front wheel alignment once the wishbones are fitted.

I paid £50 all in for the two ball joints to be fitted . Worth getting new pinch bolts too for them, even if you're fitting new wishbones complete. About £1 or £2 each from memory.

I didn't like the idea of non-MB wishbones as most of the places I checked didn't seem to know the difference between sportline/16v ones and regular W201 arms. The bushes are different.

Will

 

[stats007]

Bolts are straight through on mine and the EPC doesn't list any variations in them? The bushes are sleeved so no room for alignment? Sure you don't mean the steering knuckle?

 

[Will]

One last thing - I have heard that the wishbone bolts can sometimes be a sod to remove, apparantly they sieze up, so might be worth ordering up some new bolts beforehand?

Will

 

[Will]

Bolts are straight through on mine and the EPC doesn't list any variations in them? The bushes are sleeved so no room for alignment? Sure you don't mean the steering knuckle?

AFAIK it's definately the lower wishbones. I'll see what I can find

Will

 

[stats007]

Did my Transit in 5 minutes so would hope the 190 was as easy...

 

[Will]

Russian 'EPC' type site is down currently. I'll try and have a look tomorrow.

But I'm pretty sure that if you're fitting new wishbones, you'll need a front end alignment (unless you're dead lucky!)

Will

 

[franey]

Whilst on this subject.............

When you have fitted the wishbone do you tighten the main bolts with the car still jacked up or lower it, let the suspension settle and then tighten?