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Swirly Marks

SeagullFan

Active Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
103
Location
Mid Sussex
Car
SL400 Amg Line. A6(🥴)
Hi all,
please excuse my ignorance but my new to me SL met blue has some rather hazy swirly buffing marks on the boot lid. No scratches just looks rotten.

when funds allow ( or rather when I can sneak the expense through without Mrs Seagull noticing) i’m intending to take it to the detailer and get a good correction etc and then ceramic coat it.

However in the meantime if I were to clay bar the boot lid and polish it do you think it would come off?
 
Hi all,
please excuse my ignorance but my new to me SL met blue has some rather hazy swirly buffing marks on the boot lid. No scratches just looks rotten.

when funds allow ( or rather when I can sneak the expense through without Mrs Seagull noticing) i’m intending to take it to the detailer and get a good correction etc and then ceramic coat it.

However in the meantime if I were to clay bar the boot lid and polish it do you think it would come off?
Clay barring could potentially create more marks so best to only do that before machine polishing. Have a go at hand polishing as is and see how it goes.

If hand polishing makes no difference then a detailer may give that panel a quick once over for less than you think. If a single pass with fix it - which it should if there’s no obvious scratches - then it’s only 20-30 minutes work. You could coat apply a wax or sealant yourself to reduce the detailer’s time on the car, and therefore cost.

Whereabouts are you?
 
Clay barring could potentially create more marks so best to only do that before machine polishing. Have a go at hand polishing as is and see how it goes.

If hand polishing makes no difference then a detailer may give that panel a quick once over for less than you think. If a single pass with fix it - which it should if there’s no obvious scratches - then it’s only 20-30 minutes work. You could coat apply a wax or sealant yourself to reduce the detailer’s time on the car, and therefore cost.

Whereabouts are you?
Down in Sussex.
 
It might be holograms from the dealer giving it a mop before you got it? They may clean off with IPA or similar (even AG Fast glass can work for this). Worth a try, though otherwise I've agree with Bobby Dazzler and just try hand polishing it in a small patch. If the paint feels rough after a quick wash, then it could be contaminated with iron or other fall out, so using a clay bar might cause more marring (I use chemicals to remove the fallout and tar first and my clay bar hardly looks dirty after the whole car).

Shame you aren't nearer as I'd give it a DA for you.
 
It might be holograms from the dealer giving it a mop before you got it? They may clean off with IPA or similar (even AG Fast glass can work for this). Worth a try, though otherwise I've agree with Bobby Dazzler and just try hand polishing it in a small patch. If the paint feels rough after a quick wash, then it could be contaminated with iron or other fall out, so using a clay bar might cause more marring (I use chemicals to remove the fallout and tar first and my clay bar hardly looks dirty after the whole car).

Shame you aren't nearer as I'd give it a DA for you.
Thank you, i’ve got some Autoglym Fast Glass in the garage, i’ll give it a try in the week. i’ll wait for a more overcast day so car doesn’t get too hot.
 
If you are not familiar with using sealants such as ceramic coatings, I strongly suggest that you take it to a professional detailer to sort out the swirl marks and apply the coating.

It takes a considerable amount of time to properly decontaminate the paintwork prior to using sealants or waxes if swirl marks have to be removed. It is not a quick process and if sealants such as ceramic cotings are used the car needs to be properly detailed prior to application.
 
If you are not familiar with using sealants such as ceramic coatings, I strongly suggest that you take it to a professional detailer to sort out the swirl marks and apply the coating.

It takes a considerable amount of time to properly decontaminate the paintwork prior to using sealants or waxes if swirl marks have to be removed. It is not a quick process and if sealants such as ceramic cotings are used the car needs to be properly detailed prior to application.
oh for sure that’s what I will do.
id just like to get rid of marks if they can be done simply in the meantime.

Takes years for these guys to become the experts and are well worth paying to do the best job possible.

me, I’m just a weekend, double bucket wash merchant.
 
oh for sure that’s what I will do.
id just like to get rid of marks if they can be done simply in the meantime.

Takes years for these guys to become the experts and are well worth paying to do the best job possible.

me, I’m just a weekend, double bucket wash merchant.
If you are handy , buy a DA polisher and have a go yourself with a bit of YouTube reading up (sub £100 ?)
Have a look at the website www.cleanyourcar.co.uk
 
Autoglym Super Resin Polish is said to contains fillers, which can mask -not remove- most swirl marks. OK for a temporary fix. Add their EGP or a decent wax to protect the finish
 
Clay mitts work very well, less risk of damage to paint, and easy to use. I’d then use the Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic range (seriously underrated - look at a few Youtube detailer sites where they compare products). Not as effective as a ceramic coat but really good and easy to apply (much easier than waxing), it looks good and lasts well.


4ACA1464-3F1B-49D1-B818-68CD0225A663.jpeg
 
I've been meaning to try Turtle Wax ceramic spray, either that or the Autoglym version (since I have some Halfords vouchers and they don't stock the TW version). That's a cracking reflection on your car, especially considering that it's white. :cool:
 
Autoglym Super Resin Polish is said to contains fillers, which can mask -not remove- most swirl marks. OK for a temporary fix. Add their EGP or a decent wax to protect the finish
I would second this

SRP, Silicone Replacement Polish. Good for masking defects. Fills in the defects. Ideal choice until you get it professionally sorted
 
I found the Turtle Wax ceramic spray is horrible to use. It’s hard work to polish it off.
But the Turtle Wax ceramic paste is a great product, highly recommend.
 
I found the Turtle Wax ceramic spray is horrible to use. It’s hard work to polish it off.
But the Turtle Wax ceramic paste is a great product, highly recommend.
That's good to know as the whole point for me is something easy to use to top up the finish: I like AG rapid detailer spray for this reason, so I was thinking that something similar to use, but with some ceramic content/longer lasting might be good.

Maybe I'll try the AG Ceramic spray.
 
Haha...a bit of club here as that's what I've got. It might be a DAS-6 Pro, not that I can remember what the difference is. I use mine for polishing guitars as well after I've sprayed them as I use Nitrocellulose paint and it's quite soft at first. I've got an old rotary polisher from when I used to spray whole cars, but it's quite easy to polish through on edges.

I keep meaning to look to see if you can get a smaller sized head for it so I can use those 3" polishing foams for tighter places. Might save my hands a bit. :)
 
Haha...a bit of club here as that's what I've got. It might be a DAS-6 Pro, not that I can remember what the difference is. I use mine for polishing guitars as well after I've sprayed them as I use Nitrocellulose paint and it's quite soft at first. I've got an old rotary polisher from when I used to spray whole cars, but it's quite easy to polish through on edges.

I keep meaning to look to see if you can get a smaller sized head for it so I can use those 3" polishing foams for tighter places. Might save my hands a bit. :)
DAS-6 has a 5/16th thread so this one would do it:
ShineMate - 3
 
That's good to know as the whole point for me is something easy to use to top up the finish: I like AG rapid detailer spray for this reason, so I was thinking that something similar to use, but with some ceramic content/longer lasting might be good.

Maybe I'll try the AG Ceramic spray.
Try Gyeon Wet Coat. Spray on sparingly, jet wash (or rinse) off. It takes a few moments, no effort required, and can last many months. I think Gyeon recommend reapplying at 6 weeks but it lasts much longer in my experience, even on cars without a ceramic coating.
 
I found the Turtle Wax ceramic spray is horrible to use. It’s hard work to polish it off.
But the Turtle Wax ceramic paste is a great product, highly recommend.
If it goes on too thickly is is a pain to move but just spraying a bit more moves it.

You may have applied too much......I find a little goes a really long and it is dead easy to get off. I usually spray it onto the applicator and not directly onto the body. I can get round the SL in 45 minutes easily. I’m lazy (especially when it comes to car cleaning) and like products that are easy to use. And I try many products

There are several trusted reviewers on YT that rate it highly against all the others.

I’ve added a few since (including the TW products I have) that picture was taken.

@OldskoolRS

C795615F-46DC-4E58-BCF3-C63305179B74.JPG
 
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