Symptoms & Fault Codes following Remap - E250 CDI (W212)

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RobbiE250

New Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2019
Messages
13
Location
Manchester
Car
E250 (W212) Facelift
Hello All, first time poster here, looking for a little advice regarding issues following a remap.

Sorry for the long first post!!

I recent bought a 2014 E250 CDI AMG (facelift) and have done a couple of basic aesthetic mods, spoiler, wheels and E63 grill.

I then had the car remapped by well known national tuning company. Nothing special, just their standard map which bumps up the torque, BHP and improves economy. I noticed the performace improvements straight out of the box, however, within a day I got an engine check light and limited performance after I tried putting my foot down to overtake someone. I stopped the car and turned the engine off then turned it back on, after which the car drove fine but the check light stayed on. I took it back to the mapper the folowing morning and he checked the fault codes which showed the following:

P008791 - The fuel pressure in the system is too low. The parameter is out of thr permissible range.

The mapper said it could be that the fuel filter needs changing, he cleared the code and told me to keep an eye on it.

Fastforward one week and the exact same problem occurred today. After driving 150 miles without fault and putting my foot down once or twice, I came to an overtaking lane, hit the gas and the car just stuttered a fraction of a second, the check light came on and I got limited performance. Same scenario, stopped the car, turned off, turned back on and all is well but the check light is still on.

I went straight back to the mapper this afternoon and the faults codes were:

P008791 - The fuel pressure in the system is too low. The parameter is out of the permissible range.
P061B85 - The torque calculation of the control module is faulty. A signal is above the permissible limit value.

I have agreed to take the car back to the mapper tomorrow morning so that he can check the air and fuel filters, these will be replaced if need be and he said that he should be able to tweak the map to deal with the faults.

Do any forum members have experience of these codes, especially following a remap?

Should I be thinking about reverting back to standard map?

Thanks in advance.
 
Check fuel injectors seals. When I first got my E250, I bought a performance box, plugged it in and went for a drive. Good performance before EML came on.
Disconnected it, cleared fault code and went for another drive. EML came back on almost straight away with exactly your fault codes. Took to my local indie who noticed that injector seal had blown. Replaced it, cleared code and drive home. All fine until I reconnected tuning box and went for a drive, bloody injector seal on another blew, EML light again.
Back to indie, replaced another seal and drive home with box disconnected.
Drive car for six weeks, no problem.
Proper custom rolling road remap done by Celtic tuning, huge performance increase, 254bhp and 600nm torque, and it hasn't blown any more seals.
I'd look at injector seals and get a decent custom map done, cheap boxes and remap just up the fueling pressure.
Hence blown seals
 
How about returning it back to how it was and see if the problem is still there?

Always best to do a Stage zero tune before any mods for this reason.
 
Thanks gents. The car is with the mapper all day tomorrow, I will take his advice and ask him to check the injector seals while he is under the bonnet. He seemed to think that it was the fuel filter as the car is on 52000 miles and is overdue a filter change. If all else fails I will just revert back to the standard map.
 
I had a Honda 2.2 cdi that i had remapped. i started to get problems as it cut out during overtakes on highway. it started doing it more and more as i basically ignored it the first time just thinking some glitch. I changed fuel filter and everything was fine for another 13000 miles then started again so changed fuel filter and solved again. I cant understand why fuel filters especially in diesels have a service life of two years, for the price of them i have reverted back to change it every year regardless of what the service sheet says.
for the record i used to get fuel pressure to low and fuel pressure to high faults.
 
Quick update on this for anyone that may be interested.

The car went back to the mapper today, it had a revised map and he replaced the air and fuel filter. The air filter was very mucky, he doubted whether it had ever been changed. By sight alone the fuel filter appeared to have some age to it also, judging by the corrosion. I had sight of both the filter so I am happy that the work was genuinely completed. We also took it out for a test drive together and were unable to replicate the fault.

The filter change was done at cost with no labour charge so I am very happy that.

Obviously, if the issue occurs again, we can rule out the filters.

I’ll keep you posted.

Many thanks for the helpful comments.
 
Quick update on this for anyone that may be interested.

The car went back to the mapper today, it had a revised map and he replaced the air and fuel filter. The air filter was very mucky, he doubted whether it had ever been changed. By sight alone the fuel filter appeared to have some age to it also, judging by the corrosion. I had sight of both the filter so I am happy that the work was genuinely completed. We also took it out for a test drive together and were unable to replicate the fault.

The filter change was done at cost with no labour charge so I am very happy that.

Obviously, if the issue occurs again, we can rule out the filters.

I’ll keep you posted.

Many thanks for the helpful comments.
 
I'm really curious to know why you would want to map a car that clearly needed a proper service first!
 
I'm really curious to know why you would want to map a car that clearly needed a proper service first!

The car is new to me, I’ve only had it a few weeks. The car has main dealer service history up to 2017 and had the last (2018) service done by the trader I bought it from. As far as I was aware the car should should have been fine to map. ‍
 
remap sometimes reveals hidden wear of the fuel system (injector internal leak or hp pump), in your case blocked fuel filter couldnt give enough fuel through because higher demand. Hope it was only bottleneck. BTW what is official service interval of fuel filter, max. 2 years?
 
remap sometimes reveals hidden wear of the fuel system (injector internal leak or hp pump), in your case blocked fuel filter couldnt give enough fuel through because higher demand. Hope it was only bottleneck. BTW what is official service interval of fuel filter, max. 2 years?

From what I am reading, every 4 years or 60,000 miles. However, it seems the general attitude is to replace it when its needed i.e. when something goes wrong! I have a print out of the MB history for my car and there is no mention of the fuel or air filter being changed but it has only just passed 50,000 miles.
 
The car is new to me, I’ve only had it a few weeks. The car has main dealer service history up to 2017 and had the last (2018) service done by the trader I bought it from. As far as I was aware the car should should have been fine to map. ‍

You will find that a lot of us on here take the previous claims of "service" with a pinch of salt. ;)

Always worth checking it yourself or getting a good garage to do this for you.
 
You dont want start even dynoing any car thats got faults or without a service. Ive played with ECU's in the past, the outcome is a dead turbo so be careful having fun with the power.
 
This is what your 2014 car should have had done so far:

2015 - Service A

2016 - Service B, Brake Fluid change, Cabin/Pollen Filter change

2017 - Service A

2018 - Service B, Brake Fluid change, Cabin/Pollen Filter change, Air Filter change, Fuel Filter change

This is what the car will be due this year:

2019 - Service A, ATF & Filter change

From what you are describing, the 2018 service may have been skipped, and the trader just carried-out a quick engine oil and filter change instead? If so then I would check if the other items are now overdue and need doing (Brake Fluid and Cabin Filter). And I would also try and establish if the trader used the correct engine oil i.e. MB 229.51 or MB 229.52....
 
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PS - do you intend to carry-out this year's service under MB Service Care Plan, or at an indie?

Keep in mind that the next two services will be expensive:

2019 - Service A, ATF and filter change

2020 - Service B, Brake Fluid change, Cabin/pollen Filter change

So a Service Care Plan is well worth considering.

(In addition you get Mobilo roadside assistance and anti-rust warranty).
 
I just tried to look at seriveplan with a 11 plate c class, said no plans available
 
I have looked at the service plans, they seem sensible and the Mobilo roadside assistance is a nice touch. However, I have a warranty and seperate breakdown cover.

The recommendation on the MB website is basically 1 service each year over 2, 3 or 4 years, at a cost of £39 a month, which equates to almost £470 for a service and I assume it will be + VAT on top of that.

£500 for a service seems a bit steep when local independents are quoting between £100 - £130 for A Service and £200 - £250 for a B Service.

Also, a friend and old neighbour of mine is a MB independent and I think I would trust him more to do the job properly.
 
I just tried to look at seriveplan with a 11 plate c class, said no plans available

Enter your registration plate and mileage here:

Service Care Selection tool

This is what I am getting for a C-Class:

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The cost of £470 per service is a fixed cost, regardless of what needs to be done during the service .

To get the most value out of the Service Care Plan you need to use it so that it covers the most expensive services (typically year 4 and year 5).

As an example, year 4 service will typically include Service B, Air filter, Fuel filter, and Brake fluid change. That's £600-£700 at the dealer.

Year 5 service will typically include Service A, ATF and filter change - on the 7g+ this is roughly £500-£600 at the dealer.

So it is a good way of saving money on the major services. But avoid buying it to cover the basic services - a Service A with no additional items is only around £250 at the dealer.

But of course, if you use a good Indie than the above is irrelevant - Service Care Plan is a good idea only if you intend to have the car serviced at the dealer anyway.
 
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The key words are "disable torque protection".
 

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