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lordlee
Active Member
Your question is full of variables - the best way is to start with proper prep as you say and clay bar the paint to clean up the clear coat and remove any contaminants. Your car wont look like it needs claying but when you see the tar etc that the bar picks up and you feel how smooth the surface is when you've finished then you'll know it was needed. Next up a good polish like Dodo juice Lime Prime or Auto Glym SRP will help prep the paintwork - both have a small amount of fillers to help smooth very light hairline scratches. By this stage the car should look amazing and be ready for the next stage. This is where you need to make your mind up and also consider your cars colour. For example we have a red Mini and silver Porsche so I use different products on them - after the polishing stage the Mini gets a coat of Red Moose Machine glaze with the rotary (you can use hand glaze) followed by a couple of coats of Vics Councours Wax which is superb on red paint. Alternatively the Boxster is Artic Silver so it gets two coats of Jetseal 109 sealant after the polishing stage. I usually try and warm the glassy effect with some Zymol carnuba wax over the top.
What colour is your car?
What colour is your car?
I need to clarify, i think.
I'm not talking about a detail.
If, for example the car has been detailed not too long ago and it's now been washed a few times and I want to wax it again, once it's washed can i just apply a wax, can i apply a polish and then wax? Or do I need to go through the whole procedure of claying/paint cleaning?
The carnuba/synthetic polish was a different question, just asking about preference.
I'm not talking about a detail.
If, for example the car has been detailed not too long ago and it's now been washed a few times and I want to wax it again, once it's washed can i just apply a wax, can i apply a polish and then wax? Or do I need to go through the whole procedure of claying/paint cleaning?
The carnuba/synthetic polish was a different question, just asking about preference.
Bri
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2013
- Messages
- 232
- Location
- Warrington Cheshire
- Car
- 2008 Mercedes E220 est Sold ! 2011 E350 est Sold ! 2018 E220 est Premium package
Just use grease lightening, its as good as anything else on the market.
The car looks just as good and its a fraction of the cost of a lot of the stuff.
The car looks just as good and its a fraction of the cost of a lot of the stuff.
Giantvanman
MB Enthusiast
You don't have to clay and decontaminate every time. Or at all. Those that do are after the best finish/end result they can get.
You can wax after wash or wash, polish and then wax if that is what you want to do.
Carnuba based wax v synthetic wax; very personal choice. I have been usig carnuba based for a while (e.g. Autoglym High Definition wax) but just bought some Meguiars Ultimate Liquid wax which gets good results quickly in sunny/hot conditions.
So many waxes and so little time. Also, as mentioned above, so many variables to look at.
I prefer a Carnauba based wax as I feel it gives a "warmer" shine, though have also used synthetics in the past on different colours. White suits a synthetic product more than say grey or blue, but this is just an opinion.
I'm not going to get involved in the "Which is the best manufacturer?" argument, as everyone has there own preference, but there are many good ones and a few not so good out there. A little bit of research on some of the specialist detailing sites will help in your quest, though quite a few tend to sway towards their sponsor's products.
Also worth bearing in mind that this Carnauba wax will never be more than around 25% pure Carnauba (Source) and is usually filled with synthetic products anyway, though, as I mentioned earlier it does tend to add a warmth to the shine. I would suggest that the best thing to do is to ask other people which they use, either via forums or (ideally) in real life, especially if you've seen their car and like the finish.
As for the claying, again as mentioned above, usually it's done as a one off to prepare the car for a decent polish. I tend to clay mine twice a year, though it all depends on the use it gets and the condition it's in. I tend to top the wax up once a fortnight after a wash, though may use a quick detailer in between as I like it shiney.
I prefer a Carnauba based wax as I feel it gives a "warmer" shine, though have also used synthetics in the past on different colours. White suits a synthetic product more than say grey or blue, but this is just an opinion.
I'm not going to get involved in the "Which is the best manufacturer?" argument, as everyone has there own preference, but there are many good ones and a few not so good out there. A little bit of research on some of the specialist detailing sites will help in your quest, though quite a few tend to sway towards their sponsor's products.
Also worth bearing in mind that this Carnauba wax will never be more than around 25% pure Carnauba (Source) and is usually filled with synthetic products anyway, though, as I mentioned earlier it does tend to add a warmth to the shine. I would suggest that the best thing to do is to ask other people which they use, either via forums or (ideally) in real life, especially if you've seen their car and like the finish.
As for the claying, again as mentioned above, usually it's done as a one off to prepare the car for a decent polish. I tend to clay mine twice a year, though it all depends on the use it gets and the condition it's in. I tend to top the wax up once a fortnight after a wash, though may use a quick detailer in between as I like it shiney.
1. No need to clay or prime the paint every time you want to wax.
2. No need to polish the car before waxing.
3. Synthetic waxes or sealants will normally give more protection and last longer than pure carnauba waxes in the English climate.
4. Remember that you can apply a carnauba wax over a sealant, but not vice -versa. The carnauba wax is a natural product with oils etc, so it needs to breath. Putting a sealant over the top will make the paint look hazy etc.
5. Personally - if its a single stage paint without clearcoat stick to synthetic wax or sealants, eg Jet seal 109, Blacklight etc the list is endless.
If its metallic paint then I prefer carnauba waxes, but again its down to cost, preference, the paint, paint finish /condition etc. No good spending £150+ on Swissvax if the paints covered in swirls , just bang on some Collinite?
Most pro detailers will normally fully decontaminate, and then machine polish their customers cars once or at the most twice per year, in between that its just good washing techniques and regular waxing to keep them looking good.
2. No need to polish the car before waxing.
3. Synthetic waxes or sealants will normally give more protection and last longer than pure carnauba waxes in the English climate.
4. Remember that you can apply a carnauba wax over a sealant, but not vice -versa. The carnauba wax is a natural product with oils etc, so it needs to breath. Putting a sealant over the top will make the paint look hazy etc.
5. Personally - if its a single stage paint without clearcoat stick to synthetic wax or sealants, eg Jet seal 109, Blacklight etc the list is endless.
If its metallic paint then I prefer carnauba waxes, but again its down to cost, preference, the paint, paint finish /condition etc. No good spending £150+ on Swissvax if the paints covered in swirls , just bang on some Collinite?
Most pro detailers will normally fully decontaminate, and then machine polish their customers cars once or at the most twice per year, in between that its just good washing techniques and regular waxing to keep them looking good.
After Shock
Active Member
I used to use Zymol on an Ocean Blue 911. The way the colour leapt out was amazing. Well worth the effort. A heck of a lot of hard work though and then it rains!!!
Some nice finishes lordlee. How long does the Porsche take?
Some nice finishes lordlee. How long does the Porsche take?
regbuser
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2013
- Messages
- 513
- Car
- CLS 350d
