Tell me about....Buying a 'Classic' - R107

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jocasta

Active Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2007
Messages
64
Location
Hertfordshire
Car
SLK 350 Obsidian Black
Can anyone give me some advice about buying a R107. I'd love one, but don't really know anything about them other than having a relative who had one in his garage that was a rust-eaten pile, albeit a gorgeous one.

What price am I looking for paying a 'good' one, I dont want a project or really to do any work, I realise the sky's the limit possibly on an excellent example, but I know nothing...Id appreciate any advice, even if it's "stay clear/put your money on a bonfire" etc! If I did find a decent one for a 'decent' price, how much would ongoing costs be potentially...that sort of thing.

thanks in advance!
 
The 300 SL with an in line 6 cylinder seems to offer the best combination of performance / economy and handling. They also resist rust better being later cars.

Rust - that is really the main problem, and trim can be expensive.

Good ones seem to be £10k and more, should have a hard top, try some, the SL Shop seem to have a good selection of nice - but pricey - cars.

Told to avoid ones with the aftermarket electric roof conversions as some companies weakened the seatbelt mounting structure to fit the mechanism, Cheshire Classic Benz used to offer this conversion for example, although don't know if they did it badly.

I'd buy privately rather than some superficially tarted up specialist dealer car, but that is just my preference.
 
Thanks for that helpful answer Calvin,

What is it about the rust thing, I know about the late 90s-early2000s where Merc couldn't be ****d, but what was the reason behind these cars being so rust-prone?
 
They are a very old design, I think the first cars were made in 1971?? or thereabouts anyway, any old car will rust if it's been used the way most people use them, the R107 resists it remarkably well, but as it's mechanicals are so very tough, and relatively cheap to maintain, then rust is the main issue that will cost you big bucks to rectify.

Bulkheads are prone and hidden, check by pouring water in the grill in front of the windscreen and checking it doesn't appear inside the car.

Someone who is more knowledgeable than me will come along soon, but they are one of the toughest classics money can buy.
 
Rust is deffo the big problem and the worst bits are usually out of sight. As Calvin said the bulkhead is the worst spot and hardest to detect and also repair. Lift front carpets and any sign or smell of dampness is a good indicator. Pop the soft top lid and check aroung the channel that holds it's seal. Anything other than minor surface rust on the inner edge of this channel is a likely indicator that there is stuff going on elsewhere as well. Check the side windows of the soft-top cos it's a new top if they're holed or cracked. £1000 or so for a decent job. Rear wheelarches are prone and the closure panel at the front and rear ends of the sills. Give that area a tap if you can cos the underseal can support weak metal and there's nothing to see. Also check the sill jacking points. Lift the foam at the left side of the boot floor under the carpet and check there and the towing eye on the right side of the sparewheel well. Shockers should only be Bilstein and they're getting dear so check them out. 300 is the best overall engine imho although others will differ.

Be aware. Spare parts prices for these cars have doubled and tripled in very recent years and some parts are now becoming very rare and expensive. Just a couple of years ago everything was obtainable and relatively cheap. Not so now.
eg...a new heater blower is £800 ish :( .

Great cars though if you get a good one. Go private. Dealers have huge mark-ups to pay for warranty work.
 
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