The Complete M272 Engine Thread

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Just handed over my 350 CLK-V6 M272 to the guys at M.B.S in Southampton - big thanks to Carl and Merlin (and Jess) for taking her in at short notice and I know she is in good hands!
 
Hi Guys, could do with some help here,
the engine number on the car I'm about to buy is 272942 30256792

does this mean that this falls into the bracket above?
Hi, what car was it please, E or C 230 or 300, 280, 350 . Thanks
 
Just handed over my 350 CLK-V6 M272 to the guys at M.B.S in Southampton - big thanks to Carl and Merlin (and Jess) for taking her in at short notice and I know she is in good hands!

Season's greetings and all that. I've been reading this thread with mounting horror. My motor is around the same age as yours with roughly the same mileage. I wonder if you would be willing to divulge what the damage was, both physically and fiscally?

Cheers,

Chaz
 
Season's greetings and all that. I've been reading this thread with mounting horror. My motor is around the same age as yours with roughly the same mileage. I wonder if you would be willing to divulge what the damage was, both physically and fiscally?

Cheers,

Chaz

Hi Chaz

How is she doing - hopefully still going strong. Just had to replace the cam gear/adjuster together with the flex plate and torque converter refurbed. Now she runs like a dream, 20% increase in my mpg which now shows 22.5mpg.
 
Hi All, the VIN for my 350 v6 CLK is WDB209456T056674 would someone be able to check this for me so I will have an idea what I am in for? Its on 94k and FSH
 
Hi everybody..

Sorry to revive this semi-dead thread.. but.

I have an M272 (CGI) with 198k miles. I have no history of timing chain service or anything like that.. is the chain something needs to be looked at or what?

Anything I need to do. When I get the oil changed next, shall I get a sample tested to see if there are shaving or anything.

FWIW - My engine number is higher than those affected by the dreaded balance shaft issue, so not worried about that.
 
When I get the oil changed next, shall I get a sample tested to see if there are shaving or anything.
What would you be prepared to do if the oil analysis showed "abnormal" wear contamination?

In other words, would it inform your actions or just be "news"?
 
One of the indies said a while back that they hadn’t seen the balance shaft problems at all on the CGI engine but had done quite a few of the regular engines. The CGIs came out later so may already use the hardened materials?

198k is a decent mileage! What car is it? I remember seeing a CLS350 CGI on eBay with 220k miles many years ago.
 
What would you be prepared to do if the oil analysis showed "abnormal" wear contamination?

In other words, would it inform your actions or just be "news"?

Well, I just read somewhere that it could be a good way to test if there are issues with the chain. Perhaps if there are problems, change the chain? I'm just asking if I need to do any maintenance or are chains maintenance free unlike belts?

One of the indies said a while back that they hadn’t seen the balance shaft problems at all on the CGI engine but had done quite a few of the regular engines. The CGIs came out later so may already use the hardened materials?

198k is a decent mileage! What car is it? I remember seeing a CLS350 CGI on eBay with 220k miles many years ago.

Oh, i'm not worried about balance shaft. I have already verified that the engine number is safe. I am just asking about general maintenance really.

Well, the car is a S212 E350 CGI and just hit 198200 today :)

The CGI variant is a bitch to work on. It has been consuming a lot of oil, pretty much since I bought it. Today I finished off changing the PCV valve which was very hard. I had to remove heat shielding and bulkhead from the engine bay to access the bolts. Hopefully it will solve the oil issue, or the else its the valve stem seals that are gone.

Here she is in all her glory. For the mileage it's not in bad shape.

side-profile-mot.jpeg
 
350 CGI (306hp) engine only suffers with cracked/broken variable inlet manifold actuators, its a pretty solid engine, you hear of the odd cam actuator issues but that too is largely sorted by your generation. You have already attacked the PCV which is another issue.

The timing chains require little in the way of regular maintenance, as long as the oil service is kept up and the oil is good quality. You would know if you had issue by the characteristic clatter on cold start.
 
Well, I just read somewhere that it could be a good way to test if there are issues with the chain.
It's unusual for a single oil analysis to accurately pinpoint failure of a particular component.

As premature timing chain sprocket wear isn’t a common feature of your generation of M272 engine, if the timing chain isn’t clattery I’d be inclined to leave well alone.
 
350 CGI (306hp) engine only suffers with cracked/broken variable inlet manifold actuators, its a pretty solid engine, you hear of the odd cam actuator issues but that too is largely sorted by your generation. You have already attacked the PCV which is another issue.

The timing chains require little in the way of regular maintenance, as long as the oil service is kept up and the oil is good quality. You would know if you had issue by the characteristic clatter on cold start.

Ok thanks for clearing that up.

I consider my car to be in retirement after doing 190k miles in 9 years. It get's well looked after with nice Castrol/Mobile 1 oil frequently for the mileage I do.. current count is about 4k per year.

It's unusual for a single oil analysis to accurately pinpoint failure of a particular component.

As premature timing chain sprocket wear isn’t a common feature of your generation of M272 engine, if the timing chain isn’t clattery I’d be inclined to leave well alone.

Ok thanks. That is good information.

Now, for the next part please tell me off if this is the wrong thread (I can start another).. but since this an M272 mega thread here goes.

I have been investigating high oil consumption on the car, which lead me to change the PCV valve.. it was shot and I also think the source of a leak. But since i've been conscious of it, i've started to notice a puff of smoke during a cold start. Also, I was at the (long) lights the other day, and when I set off I could swear I saw a similar puff..

So this begs the question, am I looking at piston rings, valve seals or something less evil?

Check out the smoke..

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What do you call high oil consumption?

That puff on start up is upper valve train wear, oil running down the valves stems after switch of and burning away on start up. Not bad but wont get better.

Modern engines burn a lot more oil by design. Its not unusual for my 2006 C350 (non CGI) to use about half a litre every 2-3000 miles, its only done 45k in its life, and its had the balancer shaft done as a preemptive measure when it was still in warranty. Low weight synthetics burn a lot on short runs, and at high loads (towing, sustained high speed) it will burn more also. The M177 can burn a litre every 5000 miles, and for modern diesels no oil consumption is a very bad thing, means its being replaced by fuel!
 
What do you call high oil consumption?

That puff on start up is upper valve train wear, oil running down the valves stems after switch of and burning away on start up. Not bad but wont get better.

Modern engines burn a lot more oil by design. Its not unusual for my 2006 C350 (non CGI) to use about half a litre every 2-3000 miles, its only done 45k in its life, and its had the balancer shaft done as a preemptive measure when it was still in warranty. Low weight synthetics burn a lot on short runs, and at high loads (towing, sustained high speed) it will burn more also. The M177 can burn a litre every 5000 miles, and for modern diesels no oil consumption is a very bad thing, means its being replaced by fuel!

I don't have hard figures as I never wrote anything down.. but I remember at Christmas I drove to Ireland. About 40 odd minutes into the journey leaving London, the warning came on in dash, so I stopped and put in about 1 litre. Got home to Ireland. About 500 Miles.

Then.. while I was there on my 2 week holiday it came on again, I wouldn't have done hundreds of miles when I was there. <200.

So... a lot.

Also worth noting that a lot of my drives are short town. In London. On my trip back to Ireland there was 0w-30/40 in the engine which is very light. Before I left Ireland to come back to the UK I changed it to 5w-40 (think it was 40).. I think the warning has come on again a few months ago after only a thousand or something.

I will be more methodical about it in future and record hard figures.

I think the warning comes on when the car will take about a litre or two of oil.. so it's a lot of consumption whatever way you shake it out. IMHO.
 
I wrote the lines below in another thread but I think it is worth mentioning.

Failure to check this, you can be fooled to think that it is problem
with the air mass meter...

Remove the air filter assembly on top of the engine. The two plastic air hoses
and snap the bracket on the back of the engine backwards. The air filter
assembly can then be lifted of and the top of the engine can be inspected.

When the engine top is accessible, you will find a black hose running from the front
of the engine, connecting to a Y-shaped joint to a stiff hose (tank vent)
and then running to a connection to the main inlet below the air mass meter.

Disconnect this black hose from the front crank case ventillation
connection and the tank air reflow. Lift it up and check for cracks,
particularly underneath the Y-joint.

This is a common fault that developes between 100,000 and 160,000 kms
and the error code (among others) is wrong air/fuel mixture, one or both banks.

Checking this with Xentry real time data from the lambda sensors
will reveal an unstable feedback voltage.

The hose is some € 26-30. You will need to lift the air mass meter
up in order to remove the hose with a 90 degree bend
which can be a bit tricky (prevent the metallic dust particle grid
from getting loose and fall down into the sensor ass:y).
 
I wrote the lines below in another thread but I think it is worth mentioning.

Failure to check this, you can be fooled to think that it is problem
with the air mass meter...

Remove the air filter assembly on top of the engine. The two plastic air hoses
and snap the bracket on the back of the engine backwards. The air filter
assembly can then be lifted of and the top of the engine can be inspected.

When the engine top is accessible, you will find a black hose running from the front
of the engine, connecting to a Y-shaped joint to a stiff hose (tank vent)
and then running to a connection to the main inlet below the air mass meter.

Disconnect this black hose from the front crank case ventillation
connection and the tank air reflow. Lift it up and check for cracks,
particularly underneath the Y-joint.

This is a common fault that developes between 100,000 and 160,000 kms
and the error code (among others) is wrong air/fuel mixture, one or both banks.

Checking this with Xentry real time data from the lambda sensors
will reveal an unstable feedback voltage.

The hose is some € 26-30. You will need to lift the air mass meter
up in order to remove the hose with a 90 degree bend
which can be a bit tricky (prevent the metallic dust particle grid
from getting loose and fall down into the sensor ass:y).

Ok, thanks for that. I have previously worked on that area. I as you will see below, when I received the car it had a taped up Y vent so I definitely changed that. I did the starter fluid test (spray for fast idle) and it was leaking there.

I couldn't change out the piece you are referring to (marked in yellow) as I chickened out of removing the MAF. I am actually convinced there is some kind of vacuum leak still as I can hear some hissing (at least I think I can).. I showed a mechanic and he said, no.. fine! If it was leaking it would be rough. Maybe I am paranoid. Anyway I will change that part.

Please ignore the oil on the breather. That breather is new.. the oil I think (hope) is coming from the sound proofing on cover/airbox from previous leak that covered the engine.

LOL in the pic you can see the metal grid is hosed anyway :( I don't believe I can get a replacement.. would be a shame to have to get a new MAF to fix that.

annotaed.jpg


In fact, as previously advised.. that will be the last piece of these parts to change :D 👍

ezgif.com-webp-to-png.png
 
Yepp. My metal grid also went a bit downwards, but using a self-made hook I managed to lift it up, straighten it out and then glued it to the housing.
Once dropped/deformed ity was a PITA to make it flat enough so that it would fit.
 
Great thread.

After I bought my 06 E350 I discovered my car has the potential balance shaft issues.

I have already replaced the steering angle sensor, oil level sensor, and the TCM plate has been repaired.

I am disappointed, wondering what I have bought, it had 11,300 km on it when I bought it, thought I would be good to go for many kms before any issues arise.

I couldn't have been more wrong.
 
Great thread.

After I bought my 06 E350 I discovered my car has the potential balance shaft issues.

I have already replaced the steering angle sensor, oil level sensor, and the TCM plate has been repaired.

I am disappointed, wondering what I have bought, it had 11,300 km on it when I bought it, thought I would be good to go for many kms before any issues arise.

I couldn't have been more wrong.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck. Do you mean 113 thousand as opposed to 11 thousand?
 

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