The key turns but won’t turn over

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Glasfryn

Member
Joined
May 7, 2020
Messages
55
Location
Wales
Car
280ce
Hi Folks, can anyone advise, A week ago the car was running fine, I parked it in the garage, switched the engine off and left it. the battery is fully charged and when I turned they key to start the car up..... 1st stage of turn the radio engaged, 2nd stage of turn the ignition lights lit up and the fuel pump engaged, on the third turn of the key - absolutely nothing, no sound, no click just nothing - silence

I’ve tried the key to start it up in Park and in neutral, still no response, I’ve locked the doors then reopened them, foot on foot brake, still nothing on the 3rd turn of the key.

what puzzles me is that it was working great a week ago, the battery was fine, the only thing I did was to top up the battery with a charge.

any ideas???
 
Do you have a spare key you can try? Is the gear display showing correctly (in N or P)?
 
Do you have a spare key you can try? Is the gear display showing correctly (in N or P)?
I haven’t tried another key, the only indication in park or neutral is the selector itself.

I’ll go and try another key now 👍
 
Possible causes:

- Faulty inhibitor switch (that tells the ECU that the transmission is in P)

- Faulty Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS)

- Faulty transponder inside the key fob

- Faulty aftermarket immobilizer (if fitted)

- Flat battery

- Failed Camshaft or Crankshaft position sensor
 
Try wiggling the steering wheel a little, may be related to steering lock/position and retry ignition while doing this
 
Possible causes:

- Faulty inhibitor switch (that tells the ECU that the transmission is in P)

- Faulty Electronic Ignition Switch (EIS)

- Faulty transponder inside the key fob

- Faulty aftermarket immobilizer (if fitted)

- Flat battery

- Failed Camshaft or Crankshaft position sensor
Thanks for the reply 👍
 
Leave your key in position 2 and try jump your starter relay to get starter moving and start the car. If it starts then it could be the EIS is not sending that signal to fire up the relay for the starter.
 
I am a complete novice, where is the starter relay an how do I do it?

i have a w123
 
On a W123 you don’t have all the fancy electronic stuff .

It could be the ignition switch or the inhibitor switch , but the item everyone has missed is a faulty starter motor or sticking solenoid .

Get a hammer and give the starter motor , and the solenoid a good whack . If it then works , remove the starter motor and take it to a Bosch Automotive service shop for an overhaul . More cost effective than buying a new starter . If removing the starter , please don't forget to disconnect the battery first !

Id say chances are 90% this is what’s wrong .
 
Last edited:
On a W123 you don’t have all the fancy electronic stuff .

It could be the ignition switch or the inhibitor switch , but the item everyone has missed is a faulty starter motor or sticking solenoid .

Get a hammer and give the starter motor , and the solenoid a good whack . If it then works , remove the starter motor and take it to a Bosch Automotive service shop for an overhaul . More cost effective than buying a new starter . If removing the starter , please don't forget to disconnect the battery first !

Id say chances are 90% this is what’s wrong .
I may seem a bit daft but where is the starter and solenoid situated ?
 
On the 280 ( M110 ) the starter motor is on the right hand side of the engine , below the rear exhaust manifold, see picture

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You could try holding the key in the start position and run the gear selector up and down (with parking brake on and foot on the brake). If it starts its the inhibitor switch either duff or out of synch'. Do the dash lights dim when you try the starter? If they do it's a sign of high power draw from the starter, whack it with a hammer!
 
You could try holding the key in the start position and run the gear selector up and down (with parking brake on and foot on the brake). If it starts its the inhibitor switch either duff or out of synch'. Do the dash lights dim when you try the starter? If they do it's a sign of high power draw from the starter, whack it with a hammer!
The ignition lights don’t dim when the third turn is done, there is no noise it’s as if it’s not affecting anything- complete silence

the only noise is from the fuel pump when it activates on the second turn of the key
 
OK so try the first bit, running the gear selector up and down while holding it in start. If you don't get engine turn over then you need to test you have power arriving at the starter solenoid on a violet or violet/white wire. If you have power there then that just leaves an earth bond strap broken or a break in the main live feed from the battery to the motor (unlikely) or ultimately the starter unit itself. Money is on the inhibitor switch or wiring from it.
 
OK so try the first bit, running the gear selector up and down while holding it in start. If you don't get engine turn over then you need to test you have power arriving at the starter solenoid on a violet or violet/white wire. If you have power there then that just leaves an earth bond strap broken or a break in the main live feed from the battery to the motor (unlikely) or ultimately the starter unit itself. Money is on the inhibitor switch or wiring from it.
Cheers for the reply, where is the inhibitor switch?
 
Thinking back, I drove the car into the garage (on a slight gradient) once in I put it in neutral then pushed/rolled the car Forward to clear the door. I then pulled the bonnet up and topped the battery up with a Halfords battery charger without disconnecting the battery leads. That was a week before I tried starting it - I’ve just checked and I have noticed I’ve been charging the battery with the battery charger switch on ‘sealed’ rather than ‘conventional’
 

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