The rot has set in

[martin_harbron]

Hi everyone,

I've been lurking on this site for some time now but have never actually posted anything. I drive a 1994 E220 Coupe which I bought last June.

Although it runs like a dream, it has started to rust quite badly. The front wings could do with replacing but it is really bad on the rear wings which have started to rust inside the boot at either side and this rust is starting to make it 's way through to the outside.

I have attached some images and was wondering if anyone else had experienced similar problems. I think the only course of action is to get it chopped out, put 2 new wings on and get the 2 sides resprayed.

I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good bodyshop in the Middlesbrough/Darlington area to do the work and perhaps give an indication of how much it is likely to cost.

Also, if I am getting the 2 sides sprayed and all of this work done, would it not be better to get a full respray while the car is in?

Martin

 

[grober]

Sorry to hear your car is rusting so badly. I blame the paint change to a water based system by Mercedes around that time. Front wings are no problem since they are a simple bolt on job. The rear wings /arches are more difficult since there's a fair bit of work involved which is going to cost. If you decide to go ahead then I would definitely get the whole bottom half of the car done. You might get away with not doing the roof a lot less masking off required-provided the sun roof is OK.
Before embarking on this fairly expensive repair you must take a long hard look at the rest of the car. Drivetrain- engine and gearbox-differential -mileage and condition? The rest of the bodywork-rear subframe mountings-sills and jacking points-sunroof surround-bootlid-plastic trim etc. interior-seats ok and not worn/marked.suspension/steering/brakes in good nick.

You see where I am going with this? I am not saying the car shouldn't be repaired-just are you the person to do this and does the rest of the car merit the expenditure. Old mercs "god bless em" can always be repaired but are you the one to do it. Just questions- only you have the answers.

 

[martin_harbron]

Thanks Graeme,

Some useful advice. The car is in excellent condition mechanically, it has done 146k but has FSH and the guy who I bought it off gave me a huge history file and he spared no expense on it mechanically which is why I bought it.

This is why I am facing the dilemma of what to do, it's so good mechanically that it is a shame that it has started to rust. I guess I should get a few quotes and see how much it is going to cost. But my main concern is that once the rot has set in it is going to be a contsant battle.

Love the car to bits though. I have attached a picture to show how nice it looks from a distance when clean.

 

[grober]

Looking at your pictures again I am wondering if the rear wings havn't been replaced before? One other thing I forgot to mention was delamination of the rear screen-milky white clouding of the glass coming in from the edges. That's a £500-£1000 replacement depending on who does it and whether a mercedes part is used. I havn't needed to do a rear wings repair on my own car so I can't really help with costing but no doubt someone on the forum can help. You could just run away with it "as is" for the moment. A bit of under seal/waxoil on the rear arches inside and out and keeping the front wing "lips" clean and waxoiled will slow things down a bit. Even a bit "frayed round the edges" these cars are so classy they can carry it off especially in a dark colour. Some folks insist on an immaculate car of course again its a matter of personal taste/ finance? Certainly shopping around for some quotes will help your decision.

Ironically leaving your car outside helps to keep it dry and is better than putting it soaking wet in a nice warm garage which is ideal for promoting the rust process.

 

[KLP 92]

Rear arches are a pig of a job. Only real way is to cut out the affected areas and weld in new panels. Cost wise you'll be looking at £1000-1500 to have the 2 sides done, depending on where you buy the wings from.

 

[nick mercedes]

Looking at your pictures again I am wondering if the rear wings havn't been replaced before?

It looks like the rear wings are rusting in the seams where the two panels that make up the wing join...

 

[BDE1V]

I've got the same problems on my 1998 CLK320. My rear arches are alot worse ( approx 2-3" rusting from the arch outwards)
My car had full mB Service history & went through the Claim Procedure only to be stitched up by Rycroft at Sunderland ( a long story).
I was looking at getting my rear arches done however normal bodyshops just want to clean it up fill it in and give no warranty.
I was looking at taking mine to a Classic Car place on the way into Darlington from Durham. I've already rang the company & they do seem very professional but as of yet I haven't taken my car along for a quote.
http://www.simon-j-robinson.co.uk/introduction.htm
I'd be interested to see how much they charge, but they are talking cutting out & remaking new sections, so should be a good fix.
I think a replacement wing lfor a CLK ast year from MB was around £195 each with a boot at £395, however i did pick up a CLK boot from ebay last year but it was the later facelift model & doesn't fit my car.
Regards
Brian

 

[stevesey]

A bit of under seal/waxoil on the rear arches inside and out and keeping the front wing "lips" clean and waxoiled will slow things down a bit.

Having tried to keep rust a bay on a number of older cars I'd try old engine oil around all of those seams on the boot etc - this tend to creep into seams (and soak into rust) better than waxoyl. Repeated one a year it can be a good stopper.

 

[television]

Having tried to keep rust a bay on a number of older cars I'd try old engine oil around all of those seams on the boot etc - this tend to creep into seams (and soak into rust) better than waxoyl. Repeated one a year it can be a good stopper.

Please excuse me jumping in here, but never old engine oil, it can make it worse


For now you could stop it getting worse by cleaning out the mud and sloshing WAXOIL under and over the areas affected to give you some breathing space

 

[martin_harbron]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I'll be stocking up on some Waxoyl!

Brian, I may try Simon J Robinson fro a quote as I work in Darlington and they are not the far away from me. They usually have a few R107 SL's up for sale as well so they are obviously into their Mercs.

I know some people could probbly live with the rust but I need to get it sorted as it is bugging me, as it is such a lovely car I want it to look as good as possible.

 

[stevesey]

Please excuse me jumping in here, but never old engine oil, it can make it worse

Jump away - but do explain, I'm interested to know more (personal experience of oiling rusty seams has been good).

 

[television]

Jump away - but do explain, I'm interested to know more (personal experience of oiling rusty seams has been good).

I thought that you might ask,, I read this within the last few days in a trade motor magazine. I am out tonight and I will post back later

 

[stevesey]

Did a quick google and found this thread. I see why engine oil could be a problem - certainly it needs to be repeated regularly. Have used the warmed diluted waxoyl and hairdryer trick before to get it to run into tricky places, so perhaps something like that.

 

[grober]

Dinitrol appears to be much more expensive and altho anecdotal evidence makes it the better product :bannana: its debatable whether its worth the extra cost in this particular case??

 

[big x]

Dinitrol appears to be much more expensive and altho anecdotal evidence makes it the better product :bannana: its debatable whether its worth the extra cost in this particular case??

Dinitrol 3125 is far better. No surprise really they are German and supply a whole range of specialist products to the car makers.
They have beaten Waxoyl in Car Mechanics product tests for as long as I can remember.

 

[Dieselman]

Agreed about the Dinatrol but 3M also make a good anti-rust wax.

Try mixing Waxoyl and Millers Rust preventative oil. It works very well and gives a nice thin film that creeps and sticks.

 

[big x]

In areas that get water run off and splash box section waxes will wash off. A top sealant like Dinitrol 4941 is required.This is also available in aerosol form if you don't have an air compressor gun.

http://www.rust.co.uk/filestore/DINITROL4941.pdf

 

[big x]

How come Martins coupe is rusting on the inner seam ?
On both my Benz's this area looked like new.

 

[television]

Dinatrol is very runny, this is the main one used in sweden with Dinatrol centers.

I use Waxoil as I do not have to buy it,and get it free. I heat it up to 25c and use an old spray gun.

 

[Dieselman]

I use Waxoil as I do not have to buy it,and get it free. I heat it up to 25c and use an old spray gun.

And for the car..??