Things I have to fix on new to me W124

[OM606]

Hello everyone, I've already made a thread about this car's rust issue under the bodywork category but i figured i could ask about other issues in another thread. Here are the things i still have to fix:

- Lifters ticking for a second on cold starts (not a big one but why not asking!)

- Firm shifts from 1st to 2nd, as i like but 3rd to 4th is too soft for my taste. Used to shift a bit early and barely downshift at all but adjusting the Bowden cable made things better.

- Not sure E/S switch does anything.

- Vibration in the car at certain speeds, my tires are Michelin 195/65 R15 and are in fairly good shape but are from 2014 and maybe dried. One wheel doesn't have any weight on it, maybe it is not properly balanced? Vibrations occur beetween 70 and 100 km/h and go away at high speeds.

- Squeaky bushings going over bumps and potholes.

- All doors lock/unlock from the driver door but if i try to unlock the car from the passenger side, it unlocks everything as it is supposed to but not the driver's door. Locking works fine. Everytime i unlock the car, i hear something running for like 15 seconds.

Figured it would be a better idea than making a bunch of threads about this car!

 

[optimusprime]

Rusty welcome ..The vibration you have could very well be the prop shaft rubber couplings , that are split . Easy to replace them with original part. But do look out for poor quality couplings from the corner shops . If you use them they will not last very long . As for the squeaky noises ,that is emitting from the rubber bushes on the rear multi link suspension . This happens over time as they dry out .I use a few tins of silicone spray and cover every rubber part under the car you can see , starting with the multi link suspension on the rear . The 15 second noise you hear is the pump for central locking .The pump is under drivers side rear passengers foot well . Am i thinking that the ES switch you talk about is the one on the throttle quadrant .If it is then that switch plays a part on how the message from the throttle position gets to the computer and it helps gear changes . . Drivers door should open the same as the others do ..one key opens all the locks on the car .Also you can lock all the doors on the car by locking the boot with a key. Ticking from rocker cover is the tappets they are oil filled with a spring but the oil leaks out and tick tick ,you can replace them easy . .But have are you got the right oil in the engine ?. Google this for a free workshop manual > Model 124 Maintenance Manual Index <

 

[Benzowner]

The tyres being 2014 vintage are IMO well past their best. I recently had my 2014 tyres changed, air was leaking through the treads. I used to tow a caravan and the tyres on that were changed every 5 years regardless of appearance, I personally don't think a car is any different especially as some of my vans were twin axle.

As regards the door locking, my rather faded memory seems to say that the key could be programmed to lock/unlock certain doors, could be wrong on that one .

 

[OM606]

Thanks

The rubber couplings appear to be in good shape. There's a front tire leaking air too, I put 2.5 bar in it about two weeks ago and it's already down to 2 bar... Time to replace them, at least the front ones. I can almost hear a "rubbery" noise in rythm with the vibration with the windows rolled down.

I used silicone spray on every bushing i can see under the car and after a few days it made the rear of the car silent but the front worse, the squeaking is embarrasing when manoeuvering or at lown speed. Something needs replacing.

The oil i am using is Total Quartz 10W40 MB229.1 approved, shouldn't be a problem. After reading some documentation, it appears that a second of ticking is normal.

 

[OM606]

Since most of the noise is coming from the front, i think it either comes from the wishones bushings or the sway bar. What do you think?

 

[ChipChop]

As well as the propshaft donuts at either end you also have the propshaft centre bearing and rubber mount which wear out, the bearings rubber mount becomes detached allowing the prop to flail around. Easy to check the mounts condition by grabbing the propshaft at the mid point and checking for excess movement.

 

[G7Wagen]

Re the auto gearbox shifts... check the vacuum pipes...from engine to box.. dry and cracked ones will affect the shifting.

new oil and filter in there won't hurt.

 

[OM606]

Adjusted the modulator a bit today before finding the courage to start repairing the rust problems and it shifts beautifully now! Put two new Michelin tyres in the front and that also made the car a ton better, it is smoother, quieter and the vibration is gone, can't wait to have the money to replace the other two. The noise comes from the sway bar bushings, goes away with a few drops of oil. I guess it's not a big job to replace them...

 

[OM606]

new oil and filter in there won't hurt.

I did change the ATF with Total Dexron IID MB236.6 and what came out had a nice red colour.

 

[optimusprime]

Just make sure to check the ATF the right way .Engine fully warm and selector in P brake on .Then pull the stick out and check it =.

 

[ray_hennig]

I did change the ATF with Total Dexron IID

Why II rather than III?

I ask because my box was filled with II at 417k Km after rebuild. No problem.

We did a fluid/filter change recently at about 465k Km. We used Fuchs Titan something DIII. Apparently a more modern synthetic fluid.

The result is even better than before. Even smoother changes, etc.

Any comments from the brainy boys?

Or is this placebo effect?

RayH

 

[OM606]

Why II rather than III?

I ask because my box was filled with II at 417k Km after rebuild. No problem.

We did a fluid/filter change recently at about 465k Km. We used Fuchs Titan something DIII. Apparently a more modern synthetic fluid.

The result is even better than before. Even smoother changes, etc.

Any comments from the brainy boys?

Or is this placebo effect?

RayH

It is recommended by Total, Shell and others on their websites... MB236.6 (Dex IID?) is what was recommended by MB before but is now superseded, just like what MB229.1 used to be.

Just make sure to check the ATF the right way .Engine fully warm and selector in P brake on .Then pull the stick out and check it = View attachment 128148.

I checked the level many times and after a long drive, with the engine running and the transmission in park, the level is right between the min and max marks at 80°C.

 

[gr33nmachin3]

Re the auto gearbox shifts... check the vacuum pipes...from engine to box.. dry and cracked ones will affect the shifting.

new oil and filter in there won't hurt.

x2 for vacuum leak.