This was a lucky catch!

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Jobsworth

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 23, 2018
Messages
1,578
Location
Horsham
Car
One or two...
My SLK55 had been annoying me with a persistent oil drip from the rear main crankshaft seal for a little while, but I also had in the back of my mind that O ring business on the oil pump pickup tube. This is a naturally aspirated M113, 5.4 litre unit. V8, natch ;) There were no particular symptoms, but the car has seen a few trackdays and whilst it’s never been thrashed, it has been used as the manufacturer intended for many of it’s 105,000 miles. The engine mounts needed replacement too…. Oh, why not?
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I flicked the engine out on Saturday morning, put it on a stand and was round Nana’s for lunch at midday.
Had a spare moment today, so picked it open. The rear main was actually leaking from the plate, so probably glad we were having the sump off, as it’s easier to get it back on the dowels and also gives a chance to check on the oil drain U bend. It was fine incidentally…
Upper conrod bearing shells weren’t though…
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They were almost down to the copper! Not gone right through, but the white metal is so thin you can see the copper through it. All the upper shells were the same.
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The lower shells were hardly worn, but you’d expect that.
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I think this certainly didn’t help. The O ring on the oil pickup tube was pretty hard. Not absolutely rock hard, but harder than I’d like. More importantly the tube just fell out of the pump when I unbolted the brackets. The O ring wasn’t gripping it at all.
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Something else I found was on the anti-drain valve that fits into the block just above the oil pump outlet. The seal on it was turned over on the edge. It had been like that from the day it was assembled. The rubber protrudes a bit from the face of the block to seal against the pump when it’s bolted down. The builder must have shoogled the pump a bit to line up the holes, caught the edge of the seal and turned it over. I’ve got a new one coming Wednesday.
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I don’t know if the O ring is definitely responsible for the bearing wear, but I’m sure glad I found it and have sorted it out. As I say, the car hasn’t had a super hard life. Anyone who knows these engines will tell you they all rub the oil pump chain on the little casting on the timing cover that stops the camchain falling off the crank sprocket when the cams are out. I’ve seen them worn nearly halfway through on baggy engines. This only has the slightest nick on that area.

I’ve probably put this in the wrong section, sorry.
 
Nice to see detailed threads like these!
 
Excellent instincts... I wonder how many seals that factory engine builder folded over.. on a weekly basis.. 🤖
 
I Known BMW M series cars are well known for eating their big end/rod bearings. Never knew Mercedes suffered, even if the car was used as intended. Don't think the mileage is excessive for the mount of wear, I wonder if there was some slight oil starvation?
 
You know what you are doing Job's but this is worth a look . Minute 1:40 , 10:00 , 19:50 and 22:00 will be familiar to you.

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I Known BMW M series cars are well known for eating their big end/rod bearings. Never knew Mercedes suffered, even if the car was used as intended. Don't think the mileage is excessive for the mount of wear, I wonder if there was some slight oil starvation?
That is the implication . The 'O' ring hardens and the pump draws air along with the oil . There are a few (not many) Youtubes about blow M113 engines. But they have usually been tracked and abused. But the M113 has no low oil pressure warning gauge or lamp ...yes, I know :doh:

Interesting for me as I have a M113 AMG with almost 150K miles.
 
My SLK55 had been annoying me with a persistent oil drip from the rear main crankshaft seal for a little while,....
I flicked the engine out on Saturday morning, put it on a stand and was round Nana’s for lunch at midday.
As you do...... :banana: :banana:
 
Wow you know what you are doing, good luck with it all, it seems the cars in good hands now.
 
What's the reason upper conrod bearing shells wear out?
Engine oil does it miss on lubing them?

Are these conrod bearings known to fail?
How do you notice if conrod bearings had failed on the M113 engine?
 
What's the reason upper conrod bearing shells wear out?
Engine oil does it miss on lubing them?

Are these conrod bearings known to fail?
How do you notice if conrod bearings had failed on the M113 engine?
They bear the force from the explosion in the cylinder whereas the lower ones just follow the crankshaft.
 
Jobsworth , am I right in thinking the replacement 'o' rings are a different material ? , green ?
Yes. There’s even a note for the parts advisor that the replacement part is green, and it’s not a mistake. I did check with them first before starting, but they confirmed I had the black one. The problem with the rubber going hard is directly related to oil temperatures. Very hot oil goes hand in hand with track driving, unfortunately.
Something else interesting, well, if you are a nerd like me it is interesting. If techy stuff doesn’t interest you best press the back button and find the politics thread if that gives you a frothy gusset. If you like nerdy stuff, read on…
I’ve often noted that many m113’s I’ve worked on over the years have had subtle small end noise. I’d even consider it a feature because it never causes much of a problem. I’ve only ever had a couple of customers mention it. One is a particularly finicky German fella, who bought an S500, and turned up, quite animated, that he’d bought a pup. He singled out a very light noise, noticeable with just light throttle on and off. He thought it was little end noise, and he was right. It’s a bronze bush in the rod and the wrist pin is harder than the look my wife gives me if I want to go to the pub on a friday night with my mates. It will exhibit a tiny amount of wear at high mileage, but you are never going to get a failure. It isn’t a concern. It shouldn’t happen though, because the rod is gun-drilled and the shell has a hole to feed it…
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In that picture you can see the tiny “heel” that fits into a groove in the rod, and similar in the cap, to stop the shells spinning in the whole assembly. And there is the rub…
In the old days the little heels were on opposite sides to each other, and they butted up against the flat machined end of the facing part. But these are cracked rods, so there are no machined flat ends to butt against. In these the two heels butt against each other…
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Hence they rely on the groove to stop the pair spinning. This is actually an S54 BMW cap, from a Z4M. It was the only one to hand, but it’s almost identical.
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Where the groove goes shallow is all that stops it spinning. If you look very, very closely you’ll see the witness mark where this has been held by that groove…
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The upshot of all this?? Yes, yes, I’m getting to that. The point that the pair of shells come to rest is a little bit around from the midpoint where you’d ideally like it to sit. That means the oil drilling doesn’t line up with the tiny hole drilled in the shell. You can see the witness on the back of the shell…
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Every one I’ve ever opened has been exactly like this. I’ve been tempted to drill the hole bigger, but the nagging doubt in my mind says no, the surface area of the load side of the shell will be reduced, it’s a bad idea, so I just put them together just like the factory did. It’s always been fine.
 
Does the crankshaft need reground or can you get away with new bearing shells?
The crankshaft was mint. You couldn’t feel anything with a thumbnail drawn across it. I plastigauged two with new shells, but old bolts and they were fine, so I’m happy it’s in good shape. I did use new conrod bolts for final assembly. Interestingly they had an HWA part number, which I can’t say I’d noticed before.
 
This is fascinating even though I only understand about 20% of the OP's posts ..
 

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