Timing Chain Tensioner 280CE 110

[RossCormack]

Hello. I need to release the timing chain on my 110 engine as I am replaceing the head gasket. I took off the plug, at least what I think is the plug but I didn't see what I expected. Here is a photo. How do I proceed from here? I thought the spring would come out behind the plug and that there would be an allen key bolt behind there also. Can anyone help please.

 

[grober]

this any help? http://handbook.w116.org/Engine\110\05-310.pdf

 

[alexander patie]

so you have removed the allen headed (14mm hex key?) cap, and the retaining ring (with 19 or 17mm hex key?). the next bit should pull out, usually has a slot cut in though?

look here Êàòàëîã

also, any chance of posting that picture with a little more detail? perhaps a bit larger?

 

[RossCormack]

Ha Ha. I thought the picture would be sqeezed in a box. Yeah, I found the tensioner and managed to loosen the chain. I've got the cam shaft gears off now. The problem I have now is the damn pins that hold the chain guide. Haynes just says "remove with a slide hammer". How do you get those things off?

 

[Sp!ke]

Can't you use a coachbolt a nut and a few washers to draw the pins out?

 

[lynall]

On wifes old 320 i used a long m6 bolt running through a socket with a nut on and just wound the nut down the bolt which was against the head of the socket which then pulled the pin out.
Pic from how to section on this very forum!

Remove the cam sprocket and take off, support the chain (to stop it falling into the sump) with a bungie cord (shown in next pic). Remove the three 13mm bolts that hold down the oil spray tube. Take it off and store it carefully after cleaning.

Remove the cam shaft / rocker caps. Half a turn at a time in a diagonal pattern, untill no tension is left on the bolts. Be careful of the shims that sit between the arm and the valve stem, keep them in order as the caps. Lay them on a piece of cardboard and number them off for clarity. Now we have a bare cam waiting to be carefully lifted out and placed on the cardboard.

__________________

Live for today as tomorrow may be cancelled​

Lynall

 

[Druk]

Haynes just says "remove with a slide hammer".

Haynes is correct here. You will need a slide hammer. They get very tight.

This looks very like a slide hammer which (I found) was required. Cept mine took a very much longer hammer than this to shift the pin. It was well and truly stuck in the cambox. iirc I had to jack the engine to get it in cos of the slam panel.

 

[RossCormack]

I think I can borrow a slide hammer. What do you do with it? Does it attach to outside end of the pin somehow then you bang it outwards? I'm not familiar with this tool.

 

[Druk]

It needs a slidehammer with an adaptor in the end that will accept a high tensile 6mm stud. You screw that into the hammer end and lock it with a nut then the whole kit and caboodle is screwed into the 6mm hole in the tensioner pin. Then just slide the moving hammer back against the anvil of the hammer with a BANG! Once the pin starts to move it will come easily cos only the last bit is a tight fit in the head/cambox.

 

[Sp!ke]

Suspect its easier drawing it out with a bolt and a spacer than a slide hammer as you dont even need a tool (other than the longish bolt).

 

[Druk]

^ You might be right Spike and it's worth a try but it wasn't going to budge for me. I had said bolt tightened till it was creaking and the thing wouldn't let go. Even the slidehammer was struggling. It's an inertia thing. I made a small slider like the one in the pic and it wasn't enough. Had to jack the engine off it's mounts and use big brother.

Don't get me started on these 110 engines. Wait till you get to the steel gasket between the head and the cambox. AAAGGGHHH!

Don't -under any circumstance- use any other gasket set than Merc OEM.



.

 

[RossCormack]

I got them out using a bolt and the claw of a hammer. What's the big deal with the gaskets? That one is the one I need to replace as it's leaking.

 

[Druk]

Well done that man. Every job's different.

If it's just the steel gasket then I suppose any might do but I thought you were going to take the head off. I got two ECP gasket kits before an OEM one. Both had distortion and irregular thicknesses. The 'book' says to clean both faces before fitting the steel foil. Fine.

Twice mine leaked and I ended up with a smear of Hylomar. Trouble is, if you dont and it leaks you need to take it apart again and some of the long bolts go clean through the head as well as the cambox. So............Do you now trust the head gasket given that it's been torqued up then released twice?

 

[RossCormack]

Yeah, I thought I was taking the head off when I posted the first post but I've since realized that the leak is from the other one. I know I can replace the head gasket later if need be using the experience gained from this job but, for now, I recon it's a case of, if it ain't broke - don't mess about with it (worried about busting something on the manifold or something like that). There are a few head bolts that stay on as you remove the cambox so I am hoping the head gasket will be sound, it probably depends how much the whole thing gets disturbed when I lift it off. I will give at a good clean before putting the new cam box gasket on and I am thinking about using some gasket seal on there to be extra sure. Right now, I broke the end off an allen key in one of the cam box bolts so tommorows job is getting it out, then I think I'll wait for the new gaskets to arrive before going any further. It could be a long wait if there is another postal strike...

 

[alexander patie]

i used to hate doing these, but it has been years since the last one now!! the access to the 6mm bolts is carp. the whole job is no fun, unless one is the kind that pays for pain .

 

[RossCormack]

I have almost finished. I plan to post some pictures and a guide for anyone else, outlining the problems I had and how to fix them. However, I have been stuck for a week now with the chain. It appears to have gotten shorter and now will not fit round the camshaft gears. The tensioner is fully loose and everything seems to be in the correct place. I can even crank the engine with the chain round one of the gears and it goes round fine. I've taken out a link and bought a master link to make the fitting of the chain easier but it is still unable to reach together. Anyone got any suggestions please. Here is a photo:

 

[jonnyboy]

could it be that when you have split the chain it has dropped down slightly and is now sitting on the ends of the the crankshaft driven sprocket, instead of in the recesses ?

 

[Druk]

I'm not certain but I thought the tensioner was left out till the chain was joined. Then it is introduced assembled but in the relaxed state.

 

[RossCormack]

Jonnyboy could be onto something. I am not sure what it is like down at the bottom, are you saying it is like this? :

If so, maybe I can get it back in place from the top?

 

[alexander patie]

errrr, you do know the chain does not go round both the gears?? it goes under the n/s and over the o/s, as per the picture. the guide rail beneath the n/s cam is shaped to guide the chain against the gear. crappy design, this is just one reason i dislike the m110 sooo much. assuming you do know this then you will just have to turn the crank back and forth, pulling on both ends untill it comes free. or possibly you have it the wrong way around a guide?