Tin dust plates behind the disk

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Reminds me of the time very many years ago that I was a passenger in the back of a mate’s car. Glancing out of the side window I spotted a wheel starting to pass us. I exclaimed, “Some poor bugger has lost a” Unable to finish the sentence as our car tilted over and ground to a halt!

That happened to me in an Allegro (Worse Car Ever Made) going up Windy Hill on the M62. Scary!!!! Stub axle had broken
 
Cutting the old ones off and cutting the new ones to fit is an option, it has been done before.There are templated out there on the www. You might be able to find one that suits you if you want to go down that route.
I think what Im finding on this car just now I would probably be better going the hard way just to see what else needs doing while I have the time on my hands...Im sure there has never been a bolt or nut removed or cleaned of gunge since it was made...I can get the back plates for £15 each from Auto Doc`s and the OEM numbers match my car....I shall probably end up doing to this what I did with my C280 w202...
 
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I think what Im finding on this car just now I would probably be better going the hard way just to see what else needs doing while I have the time on my hands...Im sure there has never been a bolt or nut removed or cleaned of gunge since it was made...I can get the back plates for £15 each from Auto Doc`s and the OEM numbers match my car....I shall probably end up doing to this what I did with my C280 w202...
May as well, 'In for a penny...in for a pound' :thumb:
 
Cutting the old ones off and cutting the new ones to fit is an option, it has been done before.There are templated out there on the www. You might be able to find one that suits you if you want to go down that route.[/QUO

One cut only required and they will fit by twisting. No need for any welding. A good idea is to give them extra paint before starting.
 
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I cut my rears off my car and then sliced the new ones to slide over. You can then add some tak weld to the join or just mechanically clamp. Pretty easy and cheaper.
 
Hi I have had to remove both these plates as they had rusted through and virtually hanging off. I am struggling to find replacements for the front brake dust shields. Would you know where I can purchase them please, as all i can find is the rear.
Many thanks

Wont hurt till next service if it clear of the disc and brake lines .
Thes cost a few pounds to purchase .But the price is now are on the way down i can see .I used to make these 1000 at a time for Jaguar RR and Rover .Trouble is all the disc and caliper will need removing to get the new ones on .You pick a set of them up yourself and give them a good coat of Hamerite before the garage fit them,, or like me do it yourself .
 
Hi I have had to remove both these plates as they had rusted through and virtually hanging off. I am struggling to find replacements for the front brake dust shields. Would you know where I can purchase them please, as all i can find is the rear.
Many thanks
I got all 4 for my 2002 W203 C180 from Autodocs in Germany...takes a few days to get here but the prices are very good indeed and the metal is quite thick...all 4 cost me a total of £67-8- incl delivery.. ECP charge that for 2 for my car...
 
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I got all 4 for my 2002 W203 C180 from Autodocs in Germany...takes a few days to get here but the prices are very good indeed and the metal is quite thick...all 4 cost me a total of £67-8- incl delivery.. ECP charge that for 2 for my car...
I've looked on autodoc and there are only the rear ones for an a200
 
I've looked on autodoc and there are only the rear ones for an a200
Ive just had a look myself..it says they are working on it...another place I use...mainly for my last Merc W202 C280 1996 was .." Parts For Mercedes"..again in Germany as they were the only ones that had all the parts at a reasonable price....I have the email for them as I used to just email my orders...every part on the car in my picture is off them...that was a total suspension rebuild aswell..
 
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Wont hurt till next service if it clear of the disc and brake lines .
Thes cost a few pounds to purchase .But the price is now are on the way down i can see .I used to make these 1000 at a time for Jaguar RR and Rover .Trouble is all the disc and caliper will need removing to get the new ones on .You pick a set of them up yourself and give them a good coat of Hamerite before the garage fit them,, or like me do it yourself .
Not only that , but on any MB I’ve done them on it means removing the hubs , hence disturbing wheel bearings .
Main issue with leaving them is cr@p gets into ABS sensors and reluctor rings , causing untold problems.
 
I dont think they are cheap,, but i will say they are a pain as above .
In many cases they are VERY expensive, and hard to obtain - W201 for example .
 
Long story!

Bought the SLK 11/11 19, took it straight to my indie for inspection and service, he found a lot of problems, trader took the car back and fixed quite a few then delivered the car back to my indie.

£800 of service and repair later, collected the car late on Wednesday, straight into her garage until the Sunday. Drove 4 miles into Tenterden including a brief blast to 60+mph, then about another 4 miles towards Ashford on the fairly busy A28, doing about 35mph when back of car dropped and rear NS wheel undertook me and headed off up the pavement - luckily no-one on it at the time! Called our breakdown service (indie not answering his mobile phone!), a Good Samaritan stopped, taking pity on 2 OAP's standing in the cold, managed to get the emergency spare on and we drove slowly home.

Monday indie's mechanics came, put proper wheel back on car and took it to their garage - where it stayed for 4 1/2 frustrating and annoying weeks! All 4 rear control arms, brake discs, one cross member, dust shield (which meant wheel bearing as had to remove hub) and a set of bolts. Their apprentice had been tasked with checking the wheel bolts were greased and OK, had cracked all 5 on the rear NS, pulled 1 and found it greased already so spun it back in but did not torque them. Lied about it left right and centre, even tried saying one of the other mechanics had checked them - apprentice got fired.

Guess where my cars will NOT be going when they need service! Bloody annoying, I'd used him for about 4-5 years, and he's now a mile away at the bottom of our village, I'll insteaad have to go 8 miles to Ashford.
Not good , but I’d suggest he will be VERY unlikely to allow something like that to happen again .
It seems he did everything he could have following the incident, and he fired the lad responsible.
 
As above ^^^ I have shown many up and coming technicians (I was never an official trainer, but often new guys were put to work with me to learn certain procedures). I was the same , we knew at some part in the setting process we would be loosening the very same bolt we were tightening . I was often asked 'why did we tighten that bolt only to loosen it an hour later to facilitate an adjustment' my answer was always 'If by a stroke of luck the setting was bob on we would have no reason to go back to that bolt and it would remain loose ...unless we had tightened it an hour ago..'

One bolt (just 6mm) I Christened ''The Jesus bolt" (I believe it's an aviation term) if left loose tens of thousands of pounds of damage would be the result, not life and death like wheel bolts , but attention to detail is what saves lives/money.
Over the years with my Mercs ( 5 stud/bolt wheels , depending on age ) I adopted the practice of twice round each wheel with the torque wrench on every second bolt/nut .
 
That happened to me in an Allegro (Worse Car Ever Made) going up Windy Hill on the M62. Scary!!!! Stub axle had broken
I had something similar in my Triumph Herald : chassis outrigger had rotted away , so the rear wheel complete with half shaft started to come out .
Real bodge repair at the roadside , pushing it back in and tying up with electrical cable I had in the boot , just to get very gingerly the few miles home , car was scrapped a few days later .
 

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