• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

Tips, techniques, etc.

Bellow

Hardcore MB Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 26, 2010
Messages
11,232
Location
Ecosse.
Car
C2500 350, 450
Thought I'd start this as a place to share tips and techniques we may have recently come across. I'll kick it off with three recent ones to me.

For those grappling with a cartridge type oil filter that isn't budging but happen to have this type of spring compressor at hand....

14173_N144.jpg

.....simply clamp (as tight as it will go) the compressor across the base of the filter and then use a shifter on on one of the jaws to remove the filter. The jaws on the above type are blunt enough not to pierce the cartridge so no spills.

For bolts and nuts that aren't critical - more general holding fasteners dotted around the car such as the bolts retaining a fan shroud that are vulnerable to corrosion - I'd previously have used a tacky water resistant grease. This is very messy however. So, what I'm trying now is coating the bolt threads with underseal before fitting. My hope is that the underseal will dry where exposed to air and be less messy for subsequent working in the area and that whether it dries or not where the threads are, they will be sealed from corrosive dampness and salt.

One stolen from another on another forum. If you have to strip down something that has springs and bits and bobs within that are easily lost (eg stalk light switch) place in a clear freezer bag before dismantling. If anything flies, the freezer bag will catch it.

Feel free to add your own tips, techniques etc.
 
Another one.
If working on an airbag and are finishing up ready to reconnect the electrics, after re-connecting the airbag's connectors, turn the ignition key to the run position (but don't start) then reconnect the battery. If anything has happened that could trigger the airbag, you are well away from it with your head under the bonnet.
 
I tend to give any bolts etc a squirt of plus gas a day or so before I’m planning to do any work. It saves any loitering waiting for it to work it’s magic and you can just crack on.
 
This might only work for older cars but I use a battery isolator on my Alfa as it doesnt get used much. I used to have to charge it every few weeks but isolating the battery I haven’t had to charge it in three years or more and it starts first pull every time. And no issues with the ecu etc. The Alfa is 20 years old now so not sure how something more modern would fare with the frequent power interruption.
 
I tend to give any bolts etc a squirt of plus gas a day or so before I’m planning to do any work. It saves any loitering waiting for it to work it’s magic and you can just crack on.

Agreed, the earlier the better.
To that end, I dosed a whole load of exposed bolt ends today that I might have to remove - several months from now!
 
If you can, and you don't plan to use the car for a week or more, connect a battery conditioner to the car's main battery. i've done this for many years now with my 968 coupe, 968 cab and now SLK280. Not only does it mean you have a fully charged battery when next you want to use the car, i'm also convinced it seriously enhances battery life (and thus cost to you!!). My 968 coupe I bought at 4 1/2 years old, had already had 1 battery change. Within a couple of years I also had to replace the main battery, but from then it went on the conditioner whenever in her garage. Longest time without use was about 12 weeks. However, 10 years after the battery change, when I sold the car, that battery was still going strong, so on past history I'd ducked at least 1 if not 2 new batteries, at £100 a pop!!
 
To test a radiator for leaks obtain a known serviceable bicycle inner tube, cut it in half and connect to the inlet and outlet of the radiator, then pump up the tube to a known pressure ( about 14 psi max). Leave for a while and recheck the pressure. If you have a old bath you could just fill it with water and dunk the whole thing in - any leaks will be immediately obvious.
 
This might only work for older cars but I use a battery isolator on my Alfa as it doesnt get used much. I used to have to charge it every few weeks but isolating the battery I haven’t had to charge it in three years or more and it starts first pull every time. And no issues with the ecu etc. The Alfa is 20 years old now so not sure how something more modern would fare with the frequent power interruption.

On a modern car the alarm uses the battery. I believe there is a battery backup that would power the alarm so as soon as the main battery is disconnected it would activate so you’d have to sort that out first.
 
To test a radiator for leaks obtain a known serviceable bicycle inner tube, cut it in half and connect to the inlet and outlet of the radiator, then pump up the tube to a known pressure ( about 14 psi max). Leave for a while and recheck the pressure. If you have a old bath you could just fill it with water and dunk the whole thing in - any leaks will be immediately obvious.

That's neat for when the rad is disconnected.
I did similar with the system intact using the plastic adaptor for air beds jammed into the overflow pipe (remove hose first) and pumped with the bicycle pump. In my case, I was merely looking for it retaining the pressure (I thought I'd nicked the radiator with the sharp end of a shifter). Pressure held and now it's in service, no sign of any leak. Removing the rad in my case would have meant breaking engine and auto box cooler lines - which I preferred not to do.
 
To test a radiator for leaks obtain a known serviceable bicycle inner tube, cut it in half and connect to the inlet and outlet of the radiator, then pump up the tube to a known pressure ( about 14 psi max). Leave for a while and recheck the pressure. If you have a old bath you could just fill it with water and dunk the whole thing in - any leaks will be immediately obvious.

Brilliant!! I often work on old motorcycles so that could be adapted to pressure test old fuel tanks. I like it.
 
On a modern car the alarm uses the battery. I believe there is a battery backup that would power the alarm so as soon as the main battery is disconnected it would activate so you’d have to sort that out first.

Yes a good point. Basically I have to unlock the car which disables the alarm, then disconnect the battery isolator, then lock the car with the key. Of course this means the alarm is not active when the battery is disconnected, but then you do have the added security of the isolator. When I re-connect the isolator I just need to make sure I unlock the car with the fob otherwise the alarm goes off. The battery is in the boot which helps.

If I could fit the Alfa in the garage i'd just put in on a trickle charger but I've got a bike and scooter in the garage so alas no room! Saying that, where the Alfa gets parked I do have an outdoor socket but don't like the idea of a lead trailing into the boot across the patio.

At one point I did try one of those solar chargers, but it was rubbish.

Really though - I should just use the Alfa more!
 
Another use for the spring compressor featured earlier. Popping a brake caliper piston back in when it's a bit on the tight side.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom