• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

trouble removing rear brake disc ('99 C230K)

golden1245

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
211
Car
1999 C230K Sport
Hey guys, I'm in the process of changing out my rear brakes. Caliper bolts came off with ease (unlike the fronts), brake disc retaining screw and pad locking pins also came out with ease.

But for some reason the rear discs won't budge at all, i've be hitting them with a soft blow hammer but they won't come off. I figure it might have to do with the parking brake adjustment? I looked at the "Haynes guide for c180, c220, 230s" and it told me I need to adjust the parking brake on both passenger and driver sides. So far I only see an adjustment gear on the passenger side...do the c230k's only have them on that side?

Am I suppose to click the gear until it loosens up on the discs? A bit boggled over here :confused: thanks in advance for reading :)
 
If its anything like my W210 then there is a screw adjuster inside the drum that needs winding in. If you view it like a clock face it is about at 11 o'clock through one of the wheel stud holes. If you get a medium sized flat screwdriver you can work the wheel adjuster round.
I have to do mine soon and I am going to use the nut and bolt approach as seen on YouTube to press the disc off.
I have tried a lump hammer and it didn't budge
 
alright thanks Steven, I've found the adjustment screw on both sides now, I've tried adjusting it every which way and the disc still won't budge...

7727110098_3bd8e2d926_c.jpg


Do you guys think they might just be heavily rusted over and will take some elbow grease and penetrating fluid?

What is this "nut and bolt" approach on youtube? can you link me please? thank you :)
 
If you have a hammer action drill stick a screwdriver blade in it and vibrate the hub. It may just be rusted on to the hub.

Sent from my iPhone using MBClub UK
 
hmm I don't have one of those, just a soft blow hammer...

And i thought since the calipers and everything else came off so easy that this was going to be a piece of cake...
 
will those vibrations damage the hub?

I can try striking it harder with the hammer, will that help? I'm just afraid that it will damage the area. I've been striking it modestly for the last 30 minutes, still no luck.
 
Hi

Put the caliper back on and put her in drive with both wheels off the ground and press the brake with the wheels spinning. As long as you have no wheel bolts in and no disc retaining screw the disc should break the seal with the hub.

If you dont understand what I am talking about dont try it.

230K
 
lol, I completely understand what you mean. It just sounds dangerous. Fundamentally, it shouldn't be since both drive wheels will just be spinning in mid air so the car won't be going anywhere.

Can you please tell me, about how fast I should spin the wheels while stepping on the brake? And if you have done this before with results and can anyone else chime on this technique before I attempt it??

Thanks!
 
also, will that technique harm the drivetrain?
 
Hi

You dont need to use much speed 20mph or whatever, you might need to use one pedal on brake one on accelerator this will only break the seal between the hub and the disc though, if you haven't backed off the handbrake shoes then you will have difficulty taking the disc off over the shoes because there will be a little lip on the inside of the shoe braking face.

230k
 
gently easing it off with a mallet should be enough.

or you could put a metal bar on across the hub with 2 holes in where the wheel bolts are and use the 2 opposite wheel bolt tightening to ease it off.

personally a hammer should see it freed.
 
Excuse me for asking this but ........ you haven't got the parking brake on have you??? (Just a thought).
 
The video I mentioned was demonstrated on a ford.
Just search on YouTube for remove rusted brake rotor
 
Last edited:
I tried C230K's suggestion by putting the car in drive and pressing on the brakes. It managed to free the driver side (which I was working on) The passenger side so far will no budge still but I will work on that one later :)

Thank you everyone for their suggestions :)
 
Hi

Put the disc back on the drivers side, put the 5 bolts in it and then try again at the passenger side putting in drive etc

230K
 
I must put the 5 tire bolts back on in the drivers side? Can you explain a bit more in depth?

I tried doing it without the tire bolts on the drivers and it didn't seem to work for the passenger side...
 
Hi

You need to get the disc to hold one side of the axle from turning.

The differential will take the easiest way out and spin the disc that can move, by putting the bolts in the disc will not spin and it will then try to break the hold on the other disc.

230K
 
thank you very much for your help C230K.

I was able to break free both rear rotors using the method you prescribed.

Although at one point, when I put it back into park from drive I heard this strange high pitched grinding noise which prompted me to immediately shut off the engine. I test drove the car afterwards and everything was fine. Any idea what that grinding noise was?

But overall, it was quite a clever way to get those things loose. Much appreciated.
 
Good Morning

The high pitch grinding noise was most probably the hub turning relative to the disc (because you had now broke the seal between the two) even though you werent applying power the hub could still be turning because you have no way of stopping it because you had just broke the seal.

Hard to explain but you will be fine.

Glad I was of help even though you were sceptical;)

230k
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom