Tuner Bolts keep coming loose

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SL03WLY

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W211 03'
Hi,

I recently done a few trips in my car after standing for a few weeks. I noticed the steering wheel shaking a lot. So decided to see if the bolts were torqued down first before getting balance checked. Fortunate I did as all wheels had a couple that where barely tight. To tightened to 130nm and off I went. 90% of shaking gone. Got back home around doing 120 miles and checked again and lo and behold some of the tuner bolts are loose. Re-did the torque, went to BOTG and came back and loose again.

Anyone experienced this before? Is it droning from exhaust of poor wheel balance that can cause this? Or is it just down to aftermarket wheels and they headache tuner bolts that just can't do the job?

Tuner Bolt:
img_2662_1.jpg


OEM Wheel Bolt:

628b5c08bc090990658589.webp

Thanks,
 
Also to note,

The wheels were recently power coated. I am not sure but don't remember if the hub part was coated too or left bare.

New spigot rings where place in as well
 
Hi,

I recently done a few trips in my car after standing for a few weeks. I noticed the steering wheel shaking a lot. So decided to see if the bolts were torqued down first before getting balance checked. Fortunate I did as all wheels had a couple that where barely tight. To tightened to 130nm and off I went. 90% of shaking gone. Got back home around doing 120 miles and checked again and lo and behold some of the tuner bolts are loose. Re-did the torque, went to BOTG and came back and loose again.

Anyone experienced this before? Is it droning from exhaust of poor wheel balance that can cause this? Or is it just down to aftermarket wheels and they headache tuner bolts that just can't do the job?

Tuner Bolt:
img_2662_1.jpg


OEM Wheel Bolt:

628b5c08bc090990658589.webp

Thanks,
Wrong profile of bolt? You’ve fitted a taper where it should be a dome perhaps though I’m not sure what profile your wheels are designed to take. I wouldn’t drive any further without finding out!
 
I've been driving with these wheels for 2 years now. Its just started happening recently after wheel refurb

Also these aftermarket wheels have the smaller holes so can only use these tuner bolts unfortunately. Seems like I got to go back to using original :(
 
Check the torque wrench, it may be tired.
 
Hi,

Yep I thought this too so bought a torque adapter. And most bolts came to 130nm except mayb 2-3. I will take it a spin soon as see how it is then.

Thanks m80 & collunallcars

61bIiMGxRJL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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You have changed the bolts and they are wrong, nothing to do with powder coating. Don't drive it till you have the right bolts fitted, you could kill someone.
 
Same bolts have been in use for the last 2 years. Only recently its been noticed. But as you mentioned, could lead to fatality so will source some new ones.
 
I've been driving with these wheels for 2 years now. Its just started happening recently after wheel refurb

Also these aftermarket wheels have the smaller holes so can only use these tuner bolts unfortunately. Seems like I got to go back to using original :(
Your wheel bolts are correct [tuner] ones as aftermarket wheels uses tapered bolts so you dont have any issues type of bolt wise. [Stock on most cars are usually radius]

Maybe they are just rubbish?

I did lose a wheel once and guess what they were aftermarket wheels with oem studs and tapered tuner nuts. That was scary
 
Last edited:
Wheels take one type or the other....NOT both and they can be switched from one type to the other. It always used to be that steel wheels took the rounded ones and alloys took the 60 degree tapers ones....certainly not always that way now.
 
Your wheel bolts are correct [tuner] ones as aftermarket wheels uses tapered bolts so you dont have any issues type of bolt wise. [Stock on most cars are usually radius]

Maybe they are just rubbish?

I did lose a wheel once and guess what they were aftermarket wheels with oem studs and tapered tuner nuts. That was scary

I think so too now. Might have to put them up for sale. Japan Racing wheels.
 
Did you lubricate the bolts with anything before fitting?

The correct answer is 'no'.
 
So, popped out for a short spin today. Nothing really amiss. Came back parked up and a few bolts required a 1/4" turn to get back to 130nm. 2 were a lot more loose. Front end wasn't that bad but all still required additional 1/4" turn to get it back to torque. I have a feeling the wheel hub thread might be damaged so not holding on. Looks like a good half of the threads are getting through so.

But not worth the risk and am going back to OEM wheels now. what a shame.
 
Just so I got this right. The Wheel bolts go throug the wheel -> Brake Disc -> into Wheel hub thats pressed in with the wheel bearing?
 
I have a feeling the wheel hub thread might be damaged so not holding on. Looks like a good half of the threads are getting through so.
That doesn't sound promising. You need to check the bolt lengths and thread engagement.

With an original wheel bolt inserted in an original wheel, measure the length of the exposed thread from the inner mating face of the wheel to the end of the bolt. Now do the same with the aftermarket wheel and bolt. Is that measurement the same or shorter?
 
😭


:wallbash:
 

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