turbo seal

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You may be the unlucky one with the flaps jammed closed.

I would double check all connections and it is possible you have a duff resistor.
 
I bought two. I could try the other, does it matter which way around it goes?
I guess to open the flaps I will need to remove the motor then.
 
Try the spare first and make sure it has a good connection and is insulated.

If everything else looks ok then as you say the motor will need to be removed to open the flaps, unless you can get the top off the motor and turn it by hand.
 
The problem is the design of the pipe, The oil leaks round the back of the seal and drips through the slits in the pipe.

The best way to stop the leak is to remove the pipe, clean up the seal and pipe with degreaser, refit the seal to the pipe with a smear of oil resistant silicone around the outside of the seal, refit pipe.

your oil leak is cured.

Next thing is to do away with the swirl motor, the engine will run just fine without it in operation.

You do not have to remove the motor,

Just remove the elec plug from the top of the motor and insert a 4.7k ohm resistor in to the two centre holes of the plug, wire colours are red/green and grey secure and seal with insulating tape

The plug is left disconnected and the resistor emulates the motor and prevents faults being registered.

I am running my car with both the swirl motor and egr valve disconnected and the car runs perfect.:thumb:

Mercedes techs will disapprove cos it loses work.

Not all techs will disapprove, I devised the use of this resistor to fool the ECU, and published my results for free.
Same with the CDI3 EGR mod.
All I ask is that credit is given when ever anyone makes use of the free information I give :D
 
Not all techs will disapprove, I devised the use of this resistor to fool the ECU, and published my results for free.
Same with the CDI3 EGR mod.
All I ask is that credit is given when ever anyone makes use of the free information I give :D

Hi Alex,
following is a copy of my post dated 2.6.12 the first line credits you,


The swirl motor (resistor) solution
Following Alex Crows suggestion about a resistor to simulate the swirl motor I decided to give it a try yesterday.
I got a 4.7k ohm resistor from Maplins for 26 pence and as it was an experiment i didn't want to cut wiring so i inserted the resistor tails into the connector pin holes in the live and signal wires on the swirl motor plug.

So i took the car for a 25 mile run of mixed roads and the car ran perfect,
no CEL no limp mode and its normal 36+ mpg.

Although this was done as an experiment i have decided to run the car as is to see how it goes long term with no swirl motor.

The swirl motor problem is a subject we have been discussing on the Chrysler 300c crd forum for a couple of years and although my swirl motor had not failed, I decided to give it a try, now we have the solution.

Another member whos swirl motor has just failed has today carried out the mod and saved the cost of the repair.

Now the mod has been proved the resistor will be installed in a more permanent fashion.

as you will see i also posted on the 300c forum and you were given full credit,

I also included a link to your egr thread.

as i mentioned we had been trying to find a solution to the swirl problem and finding your thread was a lifesaver.

Thanks Alex did you find a definite answer to the v6 egr delete
 
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I've tried the second resistor and can't delete the code.
I plugged the new motor in and managed to delete the code and did a test run and it runs perfecto!
I'm tempted now to just extend the wires and have the new motor zip tied into a free space ontop of the engine. Proper dodgy job!
Open to suggestions!
I am sorry the resistor dosent work, it would is far easier to hide! But the dangling motor is doing the same job I suppose
 
Its odd that the resistor mod doesn't work for you, my car is currently running with the swirl motor and egr valve disconnected and 2 resistors fitted, Remote mounting of the swirl motor was suggested by a member on the 300c forum, and if you are able to mount it securely then give it a go.
 
Alex
I ran out of edit time so here are the links to my threads on the 300c forum..

Swirl Motor - cheap replacement solution (Pennies!) - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums

The egr thread was started based on my luck with the swirl delete without any info,
When i found your thread i posted the link.

EGR Delete on crd. - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums

Hi Black c320,
Can you tell us some questions about your mod?:
1.- Your VIN is 211xxx. Can you write the xxx numbers?
2.- Your engine is OMxxx.xxx. Can you tell us the six xxx.xxx numbers?
3.- The wires colour are the same in the 2 connectors (swirl motor and EGR plugs)?: red/green and grey? Is it a coincidence?.
4.- After you put the two 4,7k resistors, you don't have any DTC in the display but you can find it if you make a diagnosis. Is it correct?
Thanks in advance for your time and informations.
BR
 
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vin....211220

engine..om642920

Yes the wires are the same colour, r/g is 12v supply grey is signal wire.

Swirl motor has no error codes

egr code is p2355-2..cause i don't have a maf connection in the mod.

eml illuminates after around 50 miles or so but the performance and fuel consumption are slightly better,

It's worth mentioning that my swirl and egr are both in perfect working order and the mods were done as a experiment to check they actually worked, but as the car is running better i decided to leave as is.

I don't recommend the egr delete using just the resistor for anyone paranoid about error codes and illuminated eml.
 
vin....211220

engine..om642920

Yes the wires are the same colour, r/g is 12v supply grey is signal wire.

Swirl motor has no error codes

egr code is p2355-2..cause i don't have a maf connection in the mod.

eml illuminates after around 50 miles or so but the performance and fuel consumption are slightly better,

It's worth mentioning that my swirl and egr are both in perfect working order and the mods were done as a experiment to check they actually worked, but as the car is running better i decided to leave as is.

I don't recommend the egr delete using just the resistor for anyone paranoid about error codes and illuminated eml.

Perfect. I have an Alex's modified mod working 100% in 2 MB models (E320CDI 2003 and E270CDI 2004; OM648 and OM647), but I receive some questions from a Spanish forum about other models with electronic EGR (not vacuum) and for this reason I asked about VIN and engine codes.

If you don't see the EGR error code in CI display it doesn't matter if it is in ECU memory. The main thing: the motor is not in limp mode... :).

Did you tried the resistor in swirl plug and an Alex's mod in the EGR? If in your case swirl plug has not error, probably you can avoid the EGR error code with this mod.

Thanks a lot
 
Where is the swirl motor on a 646-963 engine.
 
Hi,
To prevent eml and limp mode just fit a resistor to the red/green and grey wires in the egr plug,
I used a spare 4.7k ohm, on my car i have a dtc code p2355-2 which indicates maf airflow high but the car runs perfect,

I am still trying to sort it but it it isn't a problem at the mo.

Here are a few pics...

Pic 1 shows how i fashioned the resistor to fit the plug

Pic 2+3 show the resistor fitted to the plug

insulate well with tape.

Hello kind sir, i too have a problem with the EGR switching on the check engine sign.
My car is a W203 c200 cdi and i had to unplug the EGR because it was faulty and now i'm dealing with a check engine sign always on.
I want to mention that the car isn't in limp mode, it drives normally.
I didn't have a 4.7 k ohm rezistor, but i had two 10k ohm rezistors and put them in parallel, thus making a 5k ohm rezistor, plugged them in the red/green and gray wires, but nothing happened, the check engine marker remained on.

I wonder what did i do wrong, a suggestion would come in handy. Thank you!
 

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