Under body protection

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Deleted member 11979

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Morning

I am looking to tidy up the underside of my W124.

There are several small areas where the factory coating is starting to break down, and I’d like to nip this in the bud.

In the old days I’d have liberally applied waxoyl.

I assume there is a better alternative nowadays , any advice on product and how to do it greatly appreciated

Thanks
 
As above Waxoyl is what i've used also this

carplan-tetroseal-underbody-sealant-871-p.jpg

Which i found a little easier to apply, either will do the Job.
 
If you have got a compressor handy then use 3M Schutz. You can blast it into every crevice, it doesn't drip or sag and dries a hard textured finish. Using a brush is so messy and stuff I have used in the past never dries and when you are working underneath the car it doesn't help being tacky. Did all of the underneath of the W116 450 and although others told me that it would not go over the original sealer and could dissolve it I had no problems. Never done it before I found it really easy and quick.
 
If you have got a compressor handy then use 3M Schutz. You can blast it into every crevice, it doesn't drip or sag and dries a hard textured finish. Using a brush is so messy and stuff I have used in the past never dries and when you are working underneath the car it doesn't help being tacky. Did all of the underneath of the W116 450 and although others told me that it would not go over the original sealer and could dissolve it I had no problems. Never done it before I found it really easy and quick.
Thanks for that, I don’t have a compressor but I do have a Fuji paint sprayer, is the 3m product paint like thin?
 
No and you need a special gun which screws into the top of the can. They are really cheap and very basic. You need a compressor because it needs between 6 and 8 bar pressure to operate. having said that it is not an expensive process the sealer is on ebay and goes a long way I did the whole underside with less than 3 cans. So if you can beg, borrow, steal or even hire a compressor capable of those pressures then it really is the way. As I said the painted underseals are messy, slow to apply, do not do as good a job, run and do not fully dry. I did start out using it as I had never heard of 3M Schutz and when I did come across it thought I would try it. It really does work and is really easy to apply and clean unlike the brush seal.
 
I used to use a product that was very easy to apply because it came on standard spray can.

Unfotunately I can't recall the product's name now... the end result was a black/grey rough coating, something reassembling tar or ashphalt.
 
I have my under body sealant from a friend of mine . He works in the making of chain used on the north sea oil rigs . The chain anchors the rig platform down to the sea bed . Every 5 years the chains are returned for another treatment .The vat is full of this cleaning liquid the chain is submerged in and left over night .He said the chain is as good as new after cleaning . To be re coated and returned to the platform . Well i also use it . Over 20 years i used it on this car and that . The last job was this w124 .All door cards off and its been painted inside with this nsp or - north sea protective . Every part of cavity i could get to was done over time .Only thing it smells a little for some time after. Last job was the drivers wing . My supply is getting low now , and hope i just have enough for the drivers wing .When i do get one .The friend as retired now so i need to find another paint on body protector .
 
I used Bilt Hamber products on my 190E as they came highly recommended from several forums.

The Dynax-SC 50 for most of the underside, with the Dynax UC for in the arches as it's see through so the paint still shows.

Not the cheapest out there but comes in a massive aerosol with an additional "wand" which you can get inside the chassis rails with. Theoretical this makes it a lot cleaner to apply but I still ended up dripping in the stuff after a couple of hours. At least my garage floor will never rot. :)
 
Always try and use these "sealant" products when the car has been stood in the dry for aome considerable time. Preferably in heated dry garage. As Jay correctly states, you do not want to create moisture traps underneath your nice new underseal.
 
When my CE was at PCS for major underbody attention, Oliver used Bottom Guard (I assume it's just for cars).

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Sorry about the Germanness but I think you'll get the point.

RayH
 
I'm in this boat and this thread has been insightful, as well as confusing. I didn't know there were so many things to consider about moisture n blah blah blah

I have a compressor and I can paint panels/cars if that helps. I have already rust treated any problem areas on the underside of my car (subframe has been removed and i have lots of access).

Can somebody please recommend what I need to protect the underbody now?
 
As I said before I have used 3M Schutz on my 450 and it has worked really well. You buy it in cans, plenty on ebay, into which a special but simple and cheap form of spray gun screws in to the top. Its very easy to use, doesn't drip, doesn't sag and dries very hard. You need a compressor capable of 6 to 8 bar. It is also very quick and accurate in that it goes precisely where you point the gun the spread is very tight and concentrated. Because you have quite a pressure behind it you can get it in to corners and tight spaces. It beats painting it on which is messy and drips every where and never dries. I tried the paint on variety and gave up. Didn't like the finish and it staying tacky so stripped off what I had done and looked around for something else. Came across the 3M I knew nothing about it but decided to try. There were some who spoke against it but I decided to try it and could not have been more satisfied.
 

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