URGENTLY REQUIRED PLEASE 300te 4-Matic Tandem PSU and Hudraulic Pump refurb kit.

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

brucemillar

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 18, 2010
Messages
8,661
Location
Next Door to Alice - 25 'kin years now
Car
C55 AMG Wagon - W124 300te 4matic Wagon - BMW 4.8is X5 E53 - SWB Pajero 3.5 V6 24v
Friends

Can somebody please tell me if it is possible to get a seal kit for the pump (in the title). Mine leaking clear hydraulic fluid, from behind the main pulley. I hope not to have to replace the pump if there is a seal kit available?

Many thanks


Bruce


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sorry I didnt spot this earlier Bruce but this advert may help? 9TH ITEM DOWN These tandem type pumps may also have been fitted to cars with equipment like ASD or self levelling and not just 4 matic
Google Translate

If its part no A 1244601580 some instructions for rebuilding the the vickers type 119 pump here
Hey Marty, in rebuilding my vickers tandem pump type 119 I…

there should be gasket kit A 0004608080
TANDEM PUMP AND POWER STEERING PUMP MERCEDES M 103 (103985)

https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.p...908.png&hash=65296ece63a4ed94890efd20825ca59f

ITEM 185
getImage.php


SWAG Gasket Set, hydraulic pump — item: 10 91 9155. Buy now!
 
Last edited:
Graeme

That is brilliant many thanks. It appears to be leaking from behind the main pulley then dripping on the belt below.
I can stop the leak by running in 2WD so not a complete disaster. I have not looked at cost of a replacement pump but Andy @ Wright-Tech is pricing up a rebuild (if possible). It may have to wait till after BOTG now as we do not have time on our side.
 
Graeme

That is brilliant many thanks. It appears to be leaking from behind the main pulley then dripping on the belt below.
I can stop the leak by running in 2WD so not a complete disaster. I have not looked at cost of a replacement pump but Andy @ Wright-Tech is pricing up a rebuild (if possible). It may have to wait till after BOTG now as we do not have time on our side.

Just one note of caution-just make sure we are dealing with the same pump. As is their wont Mercedes made changes to these pumps over the years [ different supplier?] so best to check by examining the pumps iden plate [might be removed on a reconditioned one?] or via chassis no.
AGnnSnU.jpg
 
Bruce how about another one . A guy i know would have one i am sure . But if its a repair or service you need then i am lost
Trevor

How much would your friend want please? I need to check the labeling on my pump to ensure that we have a match.

MB confirm that the refurb seal kit and the pump are now both NLA. Mine is leaking from behind the main pulley and at a fair rate of knots.
 
Yup, Fit a secondhand one Bruce (Hope yer well?) to get by and rebuild your own at your leisure that way you're certain to make BOTG ;) :D


We aim to be BOTG even if I have to push the thing. More likely though, I will simply switch off the 4-Matic part. That seems to stop any leaking and a spare bottle of Hydraulic Fluid in the boot always helps for piece of mind.
 
Graeme

Apologies if I missed this in the fantastic info you sent me. Are the two pumps interchangeable? (if it comes down to that) We don't want the engine back out (again) so looking for minimal fuss.
 
Can't answer whether the two types are interchangeable sorry but I expect so. Don't think a power steering pump swap is an engine out job- should be ok in situ.
 
Okay. Here is what is currently in the car (leaking): this is a Victers 1244601580 - 110 BAR

a98abe260a5fc90ced7886feccd31853.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This video on the single stage pump may be of interest Bruce?
To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/46-0730.pdf
a quick perusal of the 2 cross sectional diagrams would indicate the the rear vane/impeller stage of the pump is essentially the same in both pumps meaning the video strip down might be usefully applied to both pumps? It might mean you can ignore the rear stage but concentrate on the frontshaft assembly seals for example?
I would suggest that the advice above "Fit a secondhand one Bruce to get by and rebuild your own at your leisure" is a possible approach to your rebuild program. Maybe try to find a good second hand one but don't fit it right away--- maybe use it as a strip down guinea pig instead? It might also function as a useful source of seals dimensions--- then armed with their dimensions/ spec you may well be able to source the seals individually if no longer available as a kit from an o ring/seal supplier?
 
Also found this detailed how to with pictures.:thumb:
Tandem Power Steering Pump Rebuild - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

SUMMARY:-
Removal and Disassembly
- remove pulley bolts while serpentine belt still under tension (note fluid inside of pulley)
- remove the reservoir top, spring loaded plastic sleeve, and filter
- remove fluid lines and let drain into small container set below the fittings; cover or seal all lines to prevent contamination
- remove four short pump bolts and two long mounting bolts
- either remove front portion of pump or back off two other bolts and remove entire pump (if only doing the front, be careful to not drop any blades/vanes)
- move everything to bench/clean area and start disassembling the pump
- WARNING – as you pull the pressure chamber apart, ensure you don’t lose any of the blades (vanes) that slide back and forth in the rotor. They are polished and slightly rounded on the outside edge that fits towards the wall of the chamber and square on the end facing the shaft – this may be related more to wear than a design factor, but it does allow the reassembly with certainty on direction
- pull off the back plates which are held aligned by two pins
- remove the “c” clip that holds the rotor on the shaft; likely you will need to bend it a bit to spread – my rebuild kit had one of these included, but it too will need to be spread and then re-bent once in place (unless you have a special tool for such a process); I could have reused the original, but, as one of the photos shows, the thickness is quite a bit different, probably caused by wear
- slide rotor off shaft (don’t lose the vanes)
- drive aluminum carrier assembly pin from casing with correct diameter drift (this will release the drive shaft from the casing)
- remove the four cover plugs and their respective pins and springs
- remove shaft from the casing towards the front, sliding it through the aft seal
- drive the pin through the eccentric cam; it is same diameter as the longer pin and much easier to remove
- remove both driveshaft seals; both were incredibly brittle and difficult to remove – neither could be driven out from the back and had to be pried out – I did mess up some of the aluminum in both locations, but tried to smooth it up some with emery cloth - I could not tell which direction they were facing (this became an issue on reassembly)
- remove the three torx bolts holding the reservoir to the rear pump assembly
- all o-rings were so brittle they also broke on removal

Reassembly and Reinstallation
- the pump and components were very clean inside with no pieces of any kind of material, fiber or metal - I tank cleaned all components then blew out all the fitting with compressed air then lubed them up with new hydraulic fluid (MB version for power steering systems)
- rebuild kit arrived and was clearly not the correct kit for my application – tandem pump has two shaft seals (vice one), and many more o-rings for various purposes. So I started looking again, finding a 400% price differential across various supplier options – I bought cheapest, figuring that o-rings shouldn’t cost $5 apiece!
- install new o-rings in appropriate locations
- due to the poor condition of the seals, I was unable to clearly determine which direction they faced; I asked via this forum and got general consensus that both faced toward the front of the pump (manufacturer markings are the front face) so I lubed them up and drove both of them into their respective positions
- reinstall the rear seal keeper washer
- I used some 1000 grit wet and dry paper on the drive shaft to remove the very, very slight rough areas where the seals had rested
- reinstall the aluminum carrier and the eccentric assembly with washer on the shaft
- reinstall the eccentric locking pin into place
- slide the reassembled shaft into the casing and through the casing seal, aligning the aluminum carrier pin slot with the casing pin slot
- install the aluminum carrier locking pin
- reinstall the rotor and install new shaft end clip
- reinstall blades/vanes, pins, plates
- reinstall reservoir to rear casing
- reinstall entire front assembly into the rear casing
- bolt up the four shorter bolts and pump is mechanically sealed
- reinstall pump onto engine with two long bolts
- reinstall pump pulley
- reinstall serpentine belt and tensioner assembly
- tighten the pulley bolts
- connect up all the fluid lines
- install new filter, plastic support/marker and nut
- add fluid to reservoir (I went about half way to top]

All courtesy of the orginal poster stevenson on the peach parts mercedes forum
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom