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W124 230e rear break pads.

FLYPOGGER

Active Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2022
Messages
96
Location
Fair Oak
Car
Mercedes W124 230e, 1992
Brake pads are low. Bought a set for £20.
Odd, I've no qualms about dismantling calipers on motorbikes, changing pads is so simple.
Yet I fret about doing it on the car.
Jacking up a 32 year old car🤔 Well that went OK, couldn't use my trolley jack, as the car is lowered.
Rear wheel off, blocks of wood under car. 😊
WD40 sprayed on the pins. A few whacks with a hammer and pin punch, out they came. Outside pad came out with a tug and some wiggling with screwdriver.
Inside pad is a bit thicker than the outside. This one was reluctant to come out🙄
Carefully placed WD40, tugging with various shapes of pliers, ah it's out... Bugger, left the pad being.
More WD40, levering and tugging with screwdriver and thin nosed pliers, it's out.
Ah, genuine Merc. pads. Hmm, car has done about 68,000 miles. Are they the original pads? 😬
Try to fit inside pad, bugger, pins won't go through, as pads won't go far enough into caliper.
I laid the new ones on top of the old... new ones are several m/m longer. Damn 😥
I ponder on my pain, looking at the disc, there is a ridge where the discs are old, I file a chamfer on the offending area of the pads. Try again, 😊😊😊😊 Success, other side I did the same. Copper greased the pins, job done.
Forget the anti rattle shim. 😂😂😂
Not much room to swing a hammer to fully seat the pins, and nearby parts impede access, but, got there in the end.
Wheel back on sorted. Decided to do the other side another day. From past experience, I don't want to push my luck with a history of backache.
There's life in this pensioner yet😊
 
Might be a good idea to clean the discs up.. or for what they are worth, i would buy a new pair .
The photo isn't very good, but the discs are just covered in surface rust, no ridges. Slight lip near the axis, I had to file a chamfer to let pads slip on.
Nearside, I had to hold one pad with 2 pairs of mole grips, and tug, yank, tap for ages.
Oddly the pads had more material on than the offside. The pistons all pushed back easily, which is rarely the case on my BMW 1150GS. 🤔
I almost expected them to be seized / tight in their bores.
 
Loosen the cap on the master cylinder to let brake fluid escape the caliper pistons as you lever the pads with a large screw driver.
 
So the calipers were so rusty you had problems to pull the pads out yes ?It was rust holding them in thy need to slide in and out ..Fix the calipr so the pads are a easy loose fit /i use copper slip on the contact area of the pads
 
So the calipers were so rusty you had problems to pull the pads out yes ?It was rust holding them in thy need to slide in and out ..Fix the calipr so the pads are a easy loose fit /i use copper slip on the contact area of the pads
I rubbed some overly thick paint off the new pads. Ran a needle file along the area where the pads sit, then copper greased the edges of the pads. Pads then slid in and back out easily.
When I do the pads on my bikes, it's so easy to take the calipers off, and clean them properly. I pop the pistons out some distance, toothbrush and brake cleaning aerosol, then use red rubber grease around them, once they're pushed back in.
 
Thats just what i use ..but i have used normal grease in the past , but after a rime the rubber bellows go rotten ..so silicone grease is best
I didn't grease the bellows just the pins. That's why bike brakes are more prone to sizing, rare for them to have bellows. Although my Moto Guzzi does, but that's wierd and Italian.
I think that my tubs of red rubber grease and copper slip will be passed onto my grandkids. 😂😂
 

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