W124 - 300TE Autobox oil change?

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punjabi

Active Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2005
Messages
110
Location
Surrey, UK
Car
V230, 300TE
Where could I find a detailed procedure for an 300TE autobox oil change? I have purchased the original MERC filter and sump gasket and am not sure whether the normal ATF or Dextron III is the correct oil - is the Halfords or ECP ATF good enough or does it have to be the MERC oil!?! :crazy: Although the oil on the dipstick is clear and clean, I notice that there is an erratic changeover sometimes since my 600 mile day trip up North and back last week.

Also, what's the correct way to check the oil level - engine running and in Neutral? Where should the level be on the dipstick as it has 2 wavy sectors?
 
I think bottom wavy sector cold oil and top is when oil hot 80c.

Put atf 3 in mine then found out everyone says to use merc oil only so stuck in new merc oil and to be honest it doesnt seem that different.

Wifes w203 has atf 3 in and is much smoother than mine.




Lynall
 
You should use Dexron II. 6.2 litres drain and refill is shown in manual. (Edit: IRL this number is way lower. Maybe 3 litres come out)
If it`s possible measure outgoing oil quantum. After you could add the same quantum of new oil.

Check oil level with running engine and parking gear.
Before swich all gear positions.

Lot of oil stays in torque converter - about a half of total.

If you use wrong oil your transmission could slip through.
 
This a good post which explains a lot altho it doesn't apply to your car model directly. http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=23969 If you have a 4 speed auto then there are minor differences- the filter is semi rectangular in shape and held on with 3 screws. When you take the old filter off be ready to catch the remaining hydraulic fluid inside it! likewise the oil pan! The advice of catching and measuring the volume of ALL old fluid drained is an excellent one to gauge how much to put back. [ this assumes the original level is correct of course- so check it before you start the fluid change] Be sure to heat up the gearbox first before draining -reckon on driving about 10 miles to achieve this.
I would use Dexron 3 grade fluid personally -better changes especially when cold- altho a 4 speed box will run perfectly on Dexron 2 as Bolide says. I use FUCHS (OEM to mercedes) TITAN ATF 4000 from Opie oils http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ if you email them with your car details they will keep you right. When replacing the gearbox pan use a torque wrench ( 8Nm torque on bolts) if at all possible since overtightening the bolts can lead to pan distortion and leaks.
The gear box dipstick will look like the picture- there are 2 acceptable fluid level "bands" the lower for the fluid at 30c and the upper for fluid at 80c. this is because hydraulic fluid expands in volume when heated. experience shows that if you get the cold level right the hot one will probably be OK but check if you want to make certain..
The fluid level must be measured as follows:- start the engine in neutral- then with a foot on the brake pedal cycle the lever deliberately thro all the gearbox positions a couple of times then place the lever in P park with the engine still running. The difference between the min and max band arrows represents only about 0.3 litres so don't overfill as this can lead to damage from oil frothing. The one thing to be extremely careful about is if any of the gearbox pan bolts are seized in the gearbox casting due to corrosion. Do not try to force them out since the bolt head may sheer off necessitating drilling out the broken bolt.If you are faced with this situation I would advise taking the car to an merc specialist who will have the facilities to tackle any potential disaster which might occur.
 

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Grober,
The dipstick on my 300TE is nothing like the photo, it has no notches nor the number marks, just plain with 2 lines about 1cm apart!
Thanks for the useful info - much appreciated.
 
If you have the older 2 mark dipstick then the 2 marks refer to the MIN and MAX fluid levels measured at the operating temperature of 80c. At lower temperatures e.g when the engine is just started the fluid level should be 10-12mm below the MIN mark for the 722.4 box. [ measured on level ground with engine running and the gear box "cycled" and placed in the park position] as described above.
 
Just come in from my 300E w124 having changed my ATF today, and it was easier than I expected. If anyone is considering changing their own I would say do it. If you can change engine oil and filter then this can be done. (if you can get the car off the ground).

Tools needed are :-
13mm socket
Cross headed screwdriver
4mm allen key.
Plenty of tissue or rags.
Draining bowl.
Hot coffees (frosty morning out there)
Hot bath and a drop of ginger wine. (in a glass, not the bath :D).

Not too sure of the time taken due to popping indoors while draining fluids. The torque converter was easy for me as the drain plug was pretty close by (thank goodness I turned it the right way). Using a filter and gasket from my friends at GSf and Dextron II atf, 15L for £15, :) from my friends at a well known hydraulic hose company (where i worked once upon a time) all was done with minor costs involved.

I refilled with about 6 litres of fluid and the test drive shows the gearchanges to be noticeably smoother.

Well done me, have another drop of ginger wine.. cheers everyone.
 
Just a handy tip for w124 owners here.

I found the inspection cover on the torque converter (triangular black plastic insert) was perishing so I fitted a new one available from the dealers pt. no. A102 014 00 33 for the astronomical price of
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£1.10 + vat. (I got 10% off too)

Who said MB parts were expensive.
 
Frank - there is a problem with your tool list ;) - I see no mention of the fact that the ginger wine needs heavily dilution with rum:D

Tools needed are :-
13mm socket
Cross headed screwdriver
4mm allen key.
Plenty of tissue or rags.
Draining bowl.
Hot coffees (frosty morning out there)
Hot bath and a drop of ginger wine. (in a glass, not the bath :D).
 
on a 124 ensure you dont tighten those pan bolts too tight. Either just nip them tight or use a torque wrench. I deformed by pan when i 1st did it and had to spend an extra £45 on a new one. :devil:
 

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