W124 auto to manual gearbox conversion

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Good afternoon

I think I have all the parts to convert my 300ce from auto to manual, these being;

W124 manual box, clutch and flywheel from a 6 cylinder petrol

Gear linkage and lever

Manual box cross member

Manual pedals

Wood trim

I haven't got a new propshaft but have a company willing to modify

My local garage is going to do the conversion in his spare time over Christmas but has never done one before

My question is, has anyone done it before, and if so are there any tips I could pass on to him to help him out

Thanks a lot for your help

What could go wrong.......

Steve
 
I've done that. Well actually on a 230TE but the job's the same. The front part of the prop needs to be longer that's all.

My big tip would be to use a separate fluid reservoir for the clutch fluid. Usually on a Merc manual the fluid comes from the rear half of the brake cyl (you'll see a little stub that needs cut) but this is a real faff.

Like this. And although the outlet is 10mm it's all gravity fed so a simple rubber/nylon pipe down to the clutch master cyl is an easy job.

Lockheed Brake Fluid Reservoir - Car Builder Solutions - Kit Car Parts and Accessories

Get new rubbers for the levers at the gearbox which makes a helluva difference to the change.

The electrics need some work. Vis...The reverse light switch which at present is on the gearbox side of the autobox needs extended and made to fit the small switch on the gearlever: and the automatic starter inhibitor (also part of the switch on the side of the autobox) has to be bridged-out, i.e. two wires joined together. There's a multi connector in the passenger footwell which is a good source for getting at these wires. I can probably get the wire colours if needed.

Only prob I can foresee is if there is a flywheel position sensor on the auto it would need the same teeth on the flywheel. Not sure about that though :dk:.



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Druk has pretty much covered it, but I'll add a little.

The fluid feed line into the clutch master cylinder use's a plastic push-fit connection into a rubber seal, be sure you have the plastic end or the pipe will pop out of the rubber.

Use an 8mm hex key to line up the 3 arm's under the gear lever, then adjust the linkage rods to the correct length.

The starter inhibitor wire's Druk mentioned are the 2 fat purple ones in the 4 pin connector , located above the passenger foot well.

Are you changing the diff ratio to match? It will feel sluggish if not.

The ring gear all use the same number of teeth, so no worries there.
 
Thank you both very much, doubtless there will be more questions

The diff will be left standard for the time being and I'll see what it's like, I've been told it will be high geared, so I'll take a view then
 

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