W124 Coupe cabin heater permanently hot

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

CreosoteChris

Active Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2014
Messages
116
Location
CreosoteVille
Car
1993 300CE
Symptoms

220CE (no air-con) cabin heater is currently blowing full heat, both sides, rotating the heat controls makes no difference.

I had a good trawl around the various threads here dealing with this common issue, and did the following investigation:

Procedure

- Measured the voltage across the duovalve connector terminal (same procedure as this YouTube video) - no voltage, regardless of the heater control settings

- “Tissue test” against the cabin temp sensor vent next to sunroof control switch – no sign of any air current / tissue falls off

- Removed interior light / sunroof control panel, checked vent for blockage – no blockage

- Removed glove-box and checked for operation of cabin temp sensor fan – not turning.

- Removed cabin temp sensor fan and bench-tested – fan spins OK

- Measured voltage across cabin temp sensor fan connector terminals – 0.3V

At this point, I ran out of daylight, and also ideas about how to proceed to a root-cause diagnosis - I’m no expert auto-electrician (or mechanic for that matter)

Can anyone provide any guidance about where to go from here – all advice appreciated


Cheers, Chris
93 220CE, auto, red / black leather, 101k, Manchester
 
You've got further than most people in diagnosing the problem. It pretty much has to be a wiring fault. I'd suspect every join in the relevant cables, and every relevant earth point

Probably a connector has corroded and you've lost the voltage to the fan. You could try taking a post-ignition feed from the back of the stereo and linking it to the fan to make it run continuously. If that works I suspect that your desire to look further may wane significantly...

Nick Froome
 
Thanks very much Nick and Graeme – think I owe you both a few drinks

Luckily it’s not the worst time of year to be suffering from an over-zealous heater – and I can still use the dash centre vents to let in cold air and balance out the overall temperature – but I plan to get to the bottom of this eventually, even if it takes a while to accomplish.

Rooting around for info, I was just about to start grappling with the (gulp) 275-page Electrical Troubleshooting Manual found here: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/M...am/ETM/ETM.pdf The linked PDFs look a lot more digestible for someone of my capabilities....

…. what with this, and the various other jobs I’ve done on my W124 – I’m actually in danger of becoming competent at messing with cars.


Cheers, Chris
93 220CE, auto, red / black leather, 101k, Manchester
 
For the second time in a week (see http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/electronics/183741-93-w124-coupe-stereo-inoperative-source-unswitched-12v-power.html)……..

……it turned out to be a partially failed fuse – looked OK in the holder, but

- when removed, proved to be in a severely degraded condition
- when exchanged, fixed the issue

As I noted previously, I’m no expert on this subject, and am probably making statements of the bleedin’ obvious for most of the community reading here – but those barrel-type fuses on ageing W124s are prone to partial failure without actually breaking in an obvious way – causing voltage drops which progressively disable the connected equipment dependent on how tolerant it is of the reduced voltage. Not everything fails at the same time - in this case the blower motor was still working via the same fuse.

I’ve already replaced 50% of the fuses in my box, net job is to do the rest of ‘em before I suffer a further similar episode on the next electrical system.


Anyway, I’m learning fast, and have a W124 coupe with no major issues - I’m going out for a test drive!

Cheers, Chris
93 220CE, auto, red / black leather, 101k, Manchester
 

Attachments

  • Failed Fuse 7 Cropped.jpg
    Failed Fuse 7 Cropped.jpg
    110.5 KB · Views: 15

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom