W124 driveshaft failure.

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BlueQuinn

Active Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2013
Messages
150
Location
London
Car
Mercedes-Benz 300TE-24
Picture the scene. I'm at some traffic lights, in neutral. When they turn green I put the car into D and prod the accelerator pedal.

Instead of the expected forward motion there is a huge BANG and I lose all drive, forwards or backwards.

The RAC man who rescued me and towed the car home said the driveshaft had probably broken. Certainly there was an unpleasant knocking sound that sounded like it was coming from the rear left wheel.

So, rough estimate, how much is that going to cost me to have fixed.

Either the tow, the broken driveshaft or both caused my ABS light to go on. I don't need to worry about that as well do I?
 
I've just jacked the car up.
The driveshaft on the driver's side (right) is all loose at the wheel end. It seems secure enough at the differential end. The left hand side one seems secure at both ends.
 
Maybe get one from a breaker, Rob Parker should have a few. They are very expensive new from MB. Fitting them can be a time consuming type of job.

Take some pics of the shaft when out, be good to see where it failed
 
I've not heard very good things about these Q-Drive parts but they are a tenth of the Mercedes price. £42.60 from CarParts4Less.
Is it worth a punt at that price or am I just throwing away money?

The Mercedes part number I need is A 129 350 38 10
The most recent price I have for that is over 700 euros.
 
It must be the outer CV joint that has failed, not the drive shaft. I'm sure you could get a GKN (genuine supplier) CV Joint kit for around £50.
 
I wouldn't go with anything except genuine parts - even if they are second-hand from a breaker, as another option there was a refurb shop in the US on billy's coupe thread that may be worth a try for a recon unit.
 
It must be the outer CV joint that has failed, not the drive shaft. I'm sure you could get a GKN (genuine supplier) CV Joint kit for around £50.

Outer joint cannot be dismantled.

Only inner joint is replaceable.

Shaft breaks inner side of outer joint.

BUT why ? Does out joint seize up ? Is water collecting inside rubber
boot ?

It's been reported on forums that Rust has been found at break point.
 
I will let you know if I don't faint when presented with the bill.

Apparently Automerc can source them direct from GKN (who make them for Mercedes anyway) for less than MB charge.
 
i've had this happen to me. The Q-Drive part from carpartsforless is what i'm fitting.
 
Assuming above price of £700 for MB is correct, and the part lasted 20 years, then cost per year is £35.

The Q-Drive part at £43 only has to last 2 years (and be replaced every 2 years) and you would be in profit, I guess.

Although the price of the part will creep up over future years.

I have assumed you will fit it yourself.
 
I had the same thing happen on my E320 Coupe.

I ended up having a used one fitted from an E280 breaker in my specialist's yard.
They charged about £200-300. I can't remember the exact figure.

This was about 6 years and 40k miles ago and she's been absolutely fine since.

Darren
 
I tend to fit aftermarket parts now if the price of the genuine MB parts are much more expensive. I guess as a general rule if its more than 50% more than I go for the aftermarket part. If i can get good branded items like Febi then i'll get those anyway as they supply MB.

i've read on this and other forums that "dont fit cheaper parts" etc but i personally have never had a problem with them.

I do pretty much everything on the car myself, big or small, so labour is free. So if the part fails at some point i'll just fit another. This hasnt happened.

I've used Q-Drive parts before - track rod ends, brake discs and a couple of other bits and bobs have been Q-Drive and they are all in their 2nd+ year atleast fitted onto the car. I do quite a few miles per year also.

Things like MB front balljoints - I got the genuine MB part from the dealer for these and fitted myself, even though they are a little bit more expensive they are still cheap enough for such an important item. There were some on ebay for about a tenner.
 
Not sure from your description, are you sure it isn't a doughnut that's failed?

I will never fit Q-Drive parts again after a new LCA failed in less than a week...
 
Outer joint cannot be dismantled.

Only inner joint is replaceable.

Shaft breaks inner side of outer joint.

BUT why ? Does out joint seize up ? Is water collecting inside rubber
boot ?

It's been reported on forums that Rust has been found at break point.

Thats exactly where my one has broken. The joint itself in the rubber boot is fine (or atleast not broke or heavily siezed) I suspect water has got in and just corroded it to the point it sheered.
 
You need to get it up on a ramp and see what's wrong, its just stabbing in the dark otherwise.

Q-drive are ok for non-mechanical, easy to change bits eg arb bushes but otherwise I definitely would not chance it. Most of the cheap parts about now are shocking and nothing but grief.
 
My car is back, and the engine is now connected to the wheels again. Phew.
Mercedes Benz wanted £992+VAT for a new driveshaft!
Needless to say they didn't get it, and a used one went on instead which cost a quarter of that.

The old one had literally snapped!

I can't afford for that to happen again, so if it does it gets the Q-Drive replacement and then put up for sale.
 
Update on my q-drive experience! DONT GO THERE!

it arrived quickly which was good but after connecting up to the hub and connecting the hub back on, i went to screw it onto the driveshaft. Oh dear - it doesnt fit. Has a different PCD so doesnt fit the diff.

I suspect that other model W124s have smaller PCD on the diff. My 1994 E300D doesnt. I've ordered a genuine 2nd hand MB driveshaft now - hopefully that will fit OK

be careful with the Q-drive ebay items - they dont fit what they claim to fit

:wallbash:
 
Small update - Took the motor on the motorway for the first time since I got it back yesterday, and the annoying vibration that came on about 70-80mph has completely gone.
So it was caused by the driveshaft failing. It's a shame the garage didn't pick up on that when I told them about the vibration. Maybe they did and it appeared OK to a manual check?
 

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