W124 E300d Fuel Lines

[SilverSaloon]

1. Part number A6019970148 (item 29 in pics in link below)

2. About £20 in total - diagram & part numbers HERE

3. the metal connectors on each end of the clear pipes

4. they get brittle so for £20 worth replacing. might have hairline cracks apparently, but may not be worth it, depends if you want to eliminate all possible problems

5. Yes - i plan on doing this at some point soon as i am pretty sure that mine is quite clogged. only a tenner for a new strainer. Need to let the tank run low 1st though

6. Yes - if yours is not leaking then it will be fine. just make sure you replace the o-rings when you change the filter - they come with the genuine filter. Part number: A6010900352

 

[spock500]

i have ordered the tool from MB. Parts guy said shouldnt be trouble in me having it.

This time the manifold is coming off i've ordered new gasket and a few clips some members have said will break but i'll be extra careful as its my luck not to of ordered the one bit that breaks!!

Armed with the how-to and also some extra research and help from on here, i am quietly confident

the car is in for its MOT this thursday - i am a bit concerned that the delivery valve leaks will cause it to fail so i've got the parts ready to fit just incase!!

The only bits that I can think of breaking are the plastic double pipe clips that hold the injection pipes to the block - they an absolute to get off and on and do break quite easily -

Do not despair, all is not lost - thread two ratchet ties through, wiggle the pipes whilst pulling tight and then cut surplus off -

Nice tidy job and better than those daft clips which have probably broken off and lay on the floor hidden next to said thing of springy consistency referred to in aforementioned post.

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>The only bits that I can think of breaking are...

On the NA OM606.910, there's also the rubber plugs which connect the crankcase ventilation to the inlet manifold. You need to remove at least one of them, and when the rubber is old, it's brittle, and they break. They don't cost much.

Same with the injector pipe clamps, again, they cost pence, so there's no reason not to do the job properly.

 

[Smiley]

this is a message for tpv01 - just to confirm that changing the old fuel lines and seals + cleaning out the mainfold at the same time is a job well worth doing on these cars.

 

[SilverSaloon]

I now have the parts.

Does anyone know if the copper washers really need replacing? can i get away with replacing just the rubber o-ring? the copper washer is on order from Germany and i was hoping to do the work this weekend.

thanks

Derek

 

[Smiley]

I think the new copper washers are key - the reason they are copper is because they "squash" easily and create a good seal - downside is that they are not so good the second time. I would wait for them.

 

[Smiley]

Out of interest how much were all the parts to do this please?

 

[SilverSaloon]

Out of interest how much were all the parts to do this please?

The most expensive part was the Mercedes Special Tool which came in at £25. Manifold gasket was about £8 (might get away not using it but probably will for the cost of it) and all the rest of the stuff was about 50p each o-ring/copper washer.

thanks - i'll wait for the rest of the washers. i actually ordered 2 seperate sizes of copper washers. i wont know what ones apply to my engine until i start the job.

i will definatly be posting all the relevant part numbers required for E300D (w124) 606 engine when i know what bits fit and probably do a mini how to to accompany Parrots W210-based original.

 

[spock500]

I thought this was a good description of the shut off valve change over from the earlier pumps on the 123's to the later 124 and 202's

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[SilverSaloon]

spock - that link doesnt work for me (video removed??)

last night i noticed that the saloon has started to leak from the o-rings on the clear fuel lines for the 1st time

and it all begins again for me!!

By the way, i make sure i always check over the engine bay every week when running on veg. my checks involve:

- oil level (dipstick)
- oil condition visually from removing cap
- check for o-ring leaks
- check for lift pump leaks
- check delivery valve seals

 

[tpv01]

i have started to leak veg too but hopefully the new seals and lines i hope to fit at the weekend will sort that out. Probably worth a word of warning to anyone thinking of running their W124 on veg that the lines probably will leak so be prepared to change the seals at some point.

with regard to the other checks, do you look at the oil sump gasket? i am not using any oil but there is a slight leak from the gasket (now hidden by the veg oil leak(s)) has anyone attempted to change the sump gasket? is it a big job?

 

[SilverSaloon]

with regard to the other checks, do you look at the oil sump gasket? i am not using any oil but there is a slight leak from the gasket (now hidden by the veg oil leak(s)) has anyone attempted to change the sump gasket? is it a big job?

i've never looked at this and yes its probably coated with veg - whole car needs a good clean underneath once the fuel leak from Delivery Valves is sorted

i've never noticed any engine oil leak on the undertray or on the floor after parked up. only diesel/veg

 

[tpv01]

there is no oil spots on the gorund or undertray but the sump carries a bit of staining down from the sump gasket. Nothing serious but something that could be cheap to replace and easy (in theory???).

Or is it worth leaving alone? are the sump gaskets on these cars likely to fail or will it happily go on forever on its current/original gasket? some things are better left alone i guess.

 

[SilverSaloon]

there is no oil spots on the gorund or undertray but the sump carries a bit of staining down from the sump gasket. Nothing serious but something that could be cheap to replace and easy (in theory???).

Or is it worth leaving alone? are the sump gaskets on these cars likely to fail or will it happily go on forever on its current/original gasket? some things are better left alone i guess.

i dont know to be honest. worth looking into and possibly worth doing to clean out the inside? Especially to see if any polymerisation with veg has occurred at all. i've never removed a sump before apart from the gearbox sump so dont know much about it.

 

[SilverSaloon]

OK, time for an update -

Manifold off and all 6 delivery valve rubber o-rings and crush washers replaced. Manifold cleaned with degreaser (cant believe the amount of gunk that was on it!!!). Manifold back on (cant believe how hard it is to get the crossover back on!!)

result = no more leaks!!! :bannana: :bannana: :bannana:

Job went well, but took me all day. Most of that was me taking my time and also cleaning stuff as i went along. I degreased the manifold as it was really gunked up - worse than i thought!!! I also put the final few new clear pipes on and replaced the leak off pipes (which seemed to be good anyway). I had to replace all the rubber pipes stuck to the manifold as they did break when i removed it - even with me being careful. I think the heat just gets to them!

One bad thing was however I dropped a couple of the rubber pipes own into the undertray so had to unscrew this to retrieve it - no big deal but i lost the screw and then forgot to bolt it back on correctly. Result was it ripped it off the car at 70mph and now i need to buy a new plastic undertray nothing ever goes right!!

 

[Dieselman]

Manifold off and all 6 delivery valve rubber o-rings and crush washers replaced. Manifold cleaned with degreaser (cant believe the amount of gunk that was on it!!!). Manifold back on (cant believe how hard it is to get the crossover back on!!)

I thought one required degrees in mechanical engineering and quantum physics to be able to do the delivery valves on these pumps..
I'd be tempted to block the EGR off now.

no big deal but i lost the screw and then forgot to bolt it back on correctly. Result was it ripped it off the car at 70mph and now i need to buy a new plastic undertray nothing ever goes right!!

Oops...LOL..
Good job nobody laughs when this happens...

Go no, you can say it... Ya Bas..

 

[SilverSaloon]

The Delivery valve job was easy enough but i was very careful when removing, scraping any loose grime away from the thread as i undid them (i fully degreased top of IP prior to undoing the valves). Also only removed the spring and copper washers - made a point not to disturb the rest of it.

Some of the copper washers were stuck to the inside of the valve housing (the bit you unscrew) and had to be popped off with a small screwdriver.

Most of the o-rings were shot or badly degraded. Probably the original ones i suspect. I degreased the collars aswell - IP is nice and clean again now on the top.

Its nice to see the IP bone dry after about 70 miles after doing the job... and no drips on the driveway!

I'm trying to figure out what copper washers i actually used (from the 2 sets i ordered) The copper washers were the smaller of the 2 sets I bought.

I've already plugged the EGR pipe.... its been plugged for some time. I suspect i have a little more power now, and the car did start a lot easier. I could be just imagining the power bit though - but atleast i dont have a fuel leak now so it will be interesting if this gives me any extra miles.

got to try and find an undertray now. anyone know where it is on the EPC - i cant find it.

if its expensive i may try and fabricate my own out of perspex or something. Half the undertray is still there - it snapped just under the gearbox sump.

EDIT - the car has also been starting 1st turn of the key aswell

 

[Smiley]

How do I block off the EGR? Any chance of a picture? Thanks.

 

[SilverSaloon]

How do I block off the EGR? Any chance of a picture? Thanks.

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=49665&highlight=egr

 

[spock500]

Nice one on the valves

On the EGR front I wouldnt trust the spring to keep it closed just by disconnecting the vacuum pipe.

I would plug it as described but blank off the pipe leading from the exhaust, easy to do - remove the two joining bolts (OM605) which lets a thin metal gasket drop out -

Use this as a template on thick foil, pierce two holes for the bolts and bobs you uncle :bannana: