W124 Ignition barrel won't turn! Please help :(

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W210VIP

Active Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Messages
65
Location
UK
Car
W210 E320 CDI
Hello everyone,

Thought I would start my own thread as I bumped an old one and not sure if it will get any replies, apologies for replicating a post.

Haven't posted for a while but have been a member for a few years, moved from a w120 to a w124 in the last year.

So my ignition barrel will not turn to position one! :( Everything was working fine up until I got into the car this morning, I have tried everything such as graphite grease/spray, wiggling the key while turning steering wheel, using a soft mallet to try and get it loose, using pliers with the key to add a little bit of leverage without snapping etc but still no go!

From what I understand, my next step is to cut off the black surrounding that covers the barrel, is that correct? Im assuming once I cut this off I will be able to access the spring that is holiding the barrel in place.

Please correct me if Im wrong or do let me know if there is anything else I can try. Thank you.
 
Some thing similar happened to my old 190e. From disassembly of the lock barrel I determined the basic problem was the lock pins and or the key wear such that the lock pins are not moved quite far enough for the lock to operate. That being the case you have to do something to compensate for the wear. I re-ordered the pins leaving the shortest one out and it worked for 10 years or more after that. So the lock now had 1 less pin which was potentially less secure but that wasn't something I worried about.

Nothing destructive needed to remove the lock barrel. There was a special tool a bit like those used for the old radio removal. Basically thin metal rods that were pushes down the sides of the lock. The lock may need to be in a certain position before the barrel will come out so you would have to try jiggling the key up and down to see if you can get it to move one more time.
 
Nothing destructive needed to remove the lock barrel. There was a special tool a bit like those used for the old radio removal. Basically thin metal rods that were pushes down the sides of the lock. The lock may need to be in a certain position before the barrel will come out so you would have to try jiggling the key up and down to see if you can get it to move one more time.

That will only work if you can turn the key to position one. One other thing you could try is to is to use vibration (e.g. from an electric toothbrush or drill) against the lock while trying to turn the key). However, none of that worked for me and I ended up using a Dremel to cut the black collar thing off.
 
No idea if this would make the slightest difference but maybe warm the key up with a lighter which may expand the thing just enough to compensate for some of the wear. Might give you 2 seconds to turn it to position 1 for removal of the barrel.
 
Dozens of posts & topics on this subject here, including from yours truly. Have a search around. 201 & 126 systems broadly similar.

Thanks for your reply. I’ve looked through the dozens of posts but nothing specific to what I was looking for.

Thanks for the link though!

I’m trying to find out what o need to cut to access the barrel as the key won’t turn to position 1. If I cut the black housing around the barrel will I have access to the spring that locks it in using the special tool.

Also I noticed that the silver bit with cutouts for the tool in the picture spins freely so wondering if I’m able to line up the holes without turning the key. It’s dark now and my flashlight just reflects light off of it!
 

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Some thing similar happened to my old 190e. From disassembly of the lock barrel I determined the basic problem was the lock pins and or the key wear such that the lock pins are not moved quite far enough for the lock to operate. That being the case you have to do something to compensate for the wear. I re-ordered the pins leaving the shortest one out and it worked for 10 years or more after that. So the lock now had 1 less pin which was potentially less secure but that wasn't something I worried about.

Nothing destructive needed to remove the lock barrel. There was a special tool a bit like those used for the old radio removal. Basically thin metal rods that were pushes down the sides of the lock. The lock may need to be in a certain position before the barrel will come out so you would have to try jiggling the key up and down to see if you can get it to move one more time.
The first paragraph sounds complex for me! I’m happy to buy a new barrel but I just need to get it out.

I can’t use the tool without being in position 1. Tried wiggling again and no damn luck! This issue would be fine if I didn’t have to drive for work!
 
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That will only work if you can turn the key to position one. One other thing you could try is to is to use vibration (e.g. from an electric toothbrush or drill) against the lock while trying to turn the key). However, none of that worked for me and I ended up using a Dremel to cut the black collar thing off.
Thank you. I wish this was the case! I tried hammering the key lightly while turning the key but no joy.

Ahh so you have cut open the black collar thing! Did you do it in-situ? Once you did it were you able to access the spring that holds in the barrel and did you still need the special tool?
 
No idea if this would make the slightest difference but maybe warm the key up with a lighter which may expand the thing just enough to compensate for some of the wear. Might give you 2 seconds to turn it to position 1 for removal of the barrel.
Good idea! I may try some nail varnish which had been recommended as well! Just need a makeshift tool for the barrel if I get lucky. No more metal hangers about all plastic. Anyone know where to get the tool?
 
Here’s some pics of my w210 just to brighten things up for me haha
 

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Forgot to say the steering wheel is in locked position.
 
Update, managed to line both hole up to position 1as the silver bit with notches was free to move. Do you need a tool to do in both sides at the same time or is is just one side as there is only one spring like in this video?

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Anyone know which hole is position one? I know the spring clip is only on one side
 

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You only need one, I used a screwdriver from one of those small silver "watchmaker" sets.
 
Thanks @wrdcc01. Is this still possible to do as I’m able to move the silver plates to acesss the hole?

This makes sense as my worst case scenario is but the black collar to access the hole as luckily this silver plate moves for some reason.

Of course I cannot turn key to position one but I grinded down an Allen key to use. Will try one of those watch maker sets
 
Does any have a pic of their key in position one please?
 
Is this it’s still possible to do this with the steering wheel locked and special tools as I have access to the holes by moving the silver plates and not the actual key to position one? Thanks
 
key position 0.jpgkey position 1.jpgkey position 2.jpg

Hi,
Here are pics from my car (positions 0 and 2 included for reference). You said previously that the silver front part 'turns freely' - from memory, mine turned a little but not far enough to get to position 1 (although I may not be remembering it correctly), position 1 being a twist of about 70 degrees it would seem. Unfortunately, unless it twists through 70 degrees, I don't think you'll be able to get the tool in to compress the little spring thing (the German guy in that vid explains it very well I think).
Good luck, but if you've tried everything else (heat, nail varnish, vibration, swearing, wiggling the steering wheel at the same time, more swearing etc), as I did, then you're only option really is to Dremel it off. It took me about an hour to do mine once I'd levered the trim out of the way, so it's not too bad really. If you've not yet got a new tumbler, let me know and I'll look up where I got mine from.
Good luck!
 
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Hi,
Here are pics from my car (positions 0 and 2 included for reference). You said previously that the silver front part 'turns freely' - from memory, mine turned a little but not far enough to get to position 1 (although I may not be remembering it correctly), position 1 being a twist of about 70 degrees it would seem. Unfortunately, unless it twists through 70 degrees, I don't think you'll be able to get the tool in to compress the little spring thing (the German guy in that vid explains it very well I think).
Good luck, but if you've tried everything else (heat, nail varnish, vibration, swearing, wiggling the steering wheel at the same time, more swearing etc), as I did, then you're only option really is to Dremel it off. It took me about an hour to do mine once I'd levered the trim out of the way, so it's not too bad really. If you've not yet got a new tumbler, let me know and I'll look up where I got mine from.
Good luck!
Wow! @Williamwoo, I cannot thank you enough for taking time out of your day to do this and help a fellow member. The pictures do really help and gives me a good indication of where position one is for me to use my makeshift tool.

Yes, the silver front part turns freely and I can move this approx 270 degrees; I am very lucky with this. Yes the German or South African (not sure lol) explains this very well and only used one side for the tool. However, another person shows why two are needed so I’m confused!

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I will try one and I will try two and hopefully it’s not a struggle to get barrel with black housing off as it’s hard to grip. When I do put one of the tools in the top position one, I can feel resistance and my tool then sliding over the spring which is a good sign.

My only question now is if the steering wheel being in locked position will prevent me from taking it out the barrel?

Worst case scenario I will have to cut it off. Are you able to tell me how you did it? Feel free to pm if you wish.

Again thank you 😊
 
So just called a Mercedes dealership near me and gave the year of my car and reg. Got quoted £250 for a key - I asked him if he was joking, then he said well it needs to be reprogrammed. I told him my car does not need to be reprogrammed and it’s a simple cut. He then goes on to say doesn’t or have an immobiliser? Well NO! He then quoted me £150 - this cannot be right?

He couldn’t even give me a quote for a barrel cause he needs to see my v5. What a joke.

Anyone know going prices and where to go other than my local who appears to not know what he is talking about!
 

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